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Do D50's die this way?


al_derickson

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<p>I've had my D50 for about six years and it has served me well. I'm primarily a film guy but I use it when I need a quick turnaround or I'll be posting to FB. It makes a great 8x10 which is as large as I'll ever print.<br>

For some time it has gradually been underexposing to the point now where I have dialed in +0.7 comp and +1.0 for flash. Is this something that's going to get worse over time?<br>

Right now I can get a D5100 body for $500. I certainly don't need a D5100 but will I kick myself for passing it up if my D50 dies?</p>

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<p>The 'gradual' aspect sounds more likely a lens issue or maybe a mechanical body>lens issue, although sticky apertures and actuation-levers usually produce OVERexposure. Maybe do a Full RESET and ensure a fully charged battery, just to rule out internal settings and power issues. Are there any Firmware updates it needs?</p>

<p>What lens(es) do you have? Is it the same for all of them?</p>

<p>I suspect those levels of compensation are not going to change much. .... However, how long is <strong><em>'for some time'</em> </strong>?</p>

<p>I can believe the flash tube output may drop but the TTL aspect should cope OK for a slightly reduced range.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>My D50 doesn't do what you describe, and it's about the same age. I don't use it these days, but test it before events and take it along in case my first and second cameras break down. It may not be worth the cost of a repair.<br>

<br /> The D5100 is a good camera for the right photographer, but you might kick yourself if you did buy it. If you have any autofocus lenses that are not AF-S (that don't have a focusing motor, and rely on the one in the camera) you'll be focusing them manually on the D5100, which you might prefer not to do.</p>

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<p>Since you have eliminated both lenses and flash units, the next items to eliminate are the camera meter and the sensor.</p>

<p>1) Meter a grey card in even light with your D50 and with another known good meter or your film camera, both set to the same ISO. Meter in both Spot and center weight setting. Do the meter reading diverge by less than the 0.7 EV that you see when taking pictures? Of course if it is the meter, it is probably not worth repairing.</p>

<p>2) Remove the lens and examine the sensor. Has a film built up over the sensor? If so clean or have it cleaned.</p>

<p>If it is neither of these, and not your monitor as Stuart suggest (good catch there, Stuart) the fault is probably in the electronics of the D50. It is probably not worth sending it to Nikon for repair; a used D50 in Excellent Conditon from KEH is less than $180. Live with it until the Holiday Season sales, then replace.</p>

 

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<p>Since you have eliminated both lenses and flash units, the next items to eliminate are the camera meter and the sensor.</p>

<p>1) Meter a grey card in even light with your D50 and with another known good meter or your film camera, both set to the same ISO. Meter in both Spot and center weight setting. Do the meter reading diverge by less than the 0.7 EV that you see when taking pictures? Of course if it is the meter, it is probably not worth repairing.</p>

<p>2) Remove the lens and examine the sensor. Has a film built up over the sensor? If so clean or have it cleaned.</p>

<p>If it is neither of these, and not your monitor as Stuart suggest (good catch there, Stuart) the fault is probably in the electronics of the D50. It is probably not worth sending it to Nikon for repair; a used D50 in Excellent Conditon from KEH is less than $180. Live with it until the Holiday Season sales, then replace.</p>

 

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