al_derickson Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 <p>I've had my D50 for about six years and it has served me well. I'm primarily a film guy but I use it when I need a quick turnaround or I'll be posting to FB. It makes a great 8x10 which is as large as I'll ever print.<br>For some time it has gradually been underexposing to the point now where I have dialed in +0.7 comp and +1.0 for flash. Is this something that's going to get worse over time?<br>Right now I can get a D5100 body for $500. I certainly don't need a D5100 but will I kick myself for passing it up if my D50 dies?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_halliwell Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 <p>The 'gradual' aspect sounds more likely a lens issue or maybe a mechanical body>lens issue, although sticky apertures and actuation-levers usually produce OVERexposure. Maybe do a Full RESET and ensure a fully charged battery, just to rule out internal settings and power issues. Are there any Firmware updates it needs?</p> <p>What lens(es) do you have? Is it the same for all of them?</p> <p>I suspect those levels of compensation are not going to change much. .... However, how long is <strong><em>'for some time'</em> </strong>?</p> <p>I can believe the flash tube output may drop but the TTL aspect should cope OK for a slightly reduced range.</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_derickson Posted October 15, 2012 Author Share Posted October 15, 2012 <p>I have the kit 18-55mm plus the 55-200mm VR and both expose the same. I have both the SB-600 and the SB-800 flashes and they both expose the same. Done the full reset thing and charged battery too. No new firmware is available for this model.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hector Javkin Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 <p>My D50 doesn't do what you describe, and it's about the same age. I don't use it these days, but test it before events and take it along in case my first and second cameras break down. It may not be worth the cost of a repair.<br> <br /> The D5100 is a good camera for the right photographer, but you might kick yourself if you did buy it. If you have any autofocus lenses that are not AF-S (that don't have a focusing motor, and rely on the one in the camera) you'll be focusing them manually on the D5100, which you might prefer not to do.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_halliwell Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 <p>Al, with that being the case, I'd dial in the comp and stay with an old friend. I think it very unlikely to die in the next year. </p> <p>D5100's will be much cheaper by then too!!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartMoxham Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 <p>Are you sure that your monitor is not getting darker and darker as it ages.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgelfand Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 <p>Since you have eliminated both lenses and flash units, the next items to eliminate are the camera meter and the sensor.</p> <p>1) Meter a grey card in even light with your D50 and with another known good meter or your film camera, both set to the same ISO. Meter in both Spot and center weight setting. Do the meter reading diverge by less than the 0.7 EV that you see when taking pictures? Of course if it is the meter, it is probably not worth repairing.</p> <p>2) Remove the lens and examine the sensor. Has a film built up over the sensor? If so clean or have it cleaned.</p> <p>If it is neither of these, and not your monitor as Stuart suggest (good catch there, Stuart) the fault is probably in the electronics of the D50. It is probably not worth sending it to Nikon for repair; a used D50 in Excellent Conditon from KEH is less than $180. Live with it until the Holiday Season sales, then replace.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgelfand Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 <p>Since you have eliminated both lenses and flash units, the next items to eliminate are the camera meter and the sensor.</p> <p>1) Meter a grey card in even light with your D50 and with another known good meter or your film camera, both set to the same ISO. Meter in both Spot and center weight setting. Do the meter reading diverge by less than the 0.7 EV that you see when taking pictures? Of course if it is the meter, it is probably not worth repairing.</p> <p>2) Remove the lens and examine the sensor. Has a film built up over the sensor? If so clean or have it cleaned.</p> <p>If it is neither of these, and not your monitor as Stuart suggest (good catch there, Stuart) the fault is probably in the electronics of the D50. It is probably not worth sending it to Nikon for repair; a used D50 in Excellent Conditon from KEH is less than $180. Live with it until the Holiday Season sales, then replace.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldbergbarry Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 <p>BTW - a D5100 body for $500 is not a great price. They sell brand new ones on Amazon, Adorama and B&H for $497.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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