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Disk magnet for attaching lens hood to point and shoot cameras


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Many point-and-shoot cameras, including the Panasonic LF1 that I nearly always carry with me, lack lens hoods. If I could glue a thin disk magnet to the front of the structure around the lens, and attach a ferromagnetic ring to a manufactured or makeshift hood, it would be easier to avoid flare. For the LF1, and the equivalent Leica camera, an outside diameter of 32mm and an inside diameter of 23 mm would be ideal. Does anyone know where this kind of magnet might be available? Other P&S cameras would obviously need different measurements, so that it might be useful to other readers if a variety of such rings could be found.

 

I'm not concerned about how this might affect the camera's resale value, as I intend to keep it.

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Here is one resource: <LINK> However, I don't see see anything that might fit your need. I would also be concerned about the potential impact of a sufficiently strong magnetic field on internal components, particularly the shutter mechanism, or any other electric motors (such as that drive the lens in/out of the body). I think a friction fit around the outside of the extended lens body might make more sense. If you want magnets, then 3-4 button magnets, glued to the front of the lens body might be more achievable. Neodymium should be sufficiently strong for your purposes. Check this <LINK>. Good luck. Show us what you come up with.
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Sorry, I am failing to follow your train of thought: Why would you like to glue the magnet on the camera? - I'd pick a ferromagnetic ring and would put the magnets on the lens hood, to attach it to something else, while pocketing my camera on the march.

 

I'd search for "ringmagnet" to end in an online shop like this one

 

I share David's concerns.

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Thank you both, SCL and David. Edit: and Sandy. I just tried David's suggestion with a bit of black gaffer's tape, adhesive side out, and paper over the adhesive to keep it from being sticky. Works reasonably well, albeit with longer focal lengths because my first attempt causes vignetting at wider settings. I made sure that the hood was not too tight, so the motor that retracts the lens doesn't strain if I should leave it on when the lens collapses. This happens not only when you turn the camera off, but also, after a short time, when you start looking at shots already taken.

 

Second edit: And thank you Jochen. You're right. If I were to use the magnet (not a strong one) it should go on the hood. But I've discarded my idea of the magnet, based on your warnings.

 

I may try Sandy's suggestion if the very light press-fit lets the hood fall down too frequently.

 

Again, thank you all.

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I know that using gaffer's tape is a flimsy solution, and will look for cardboard tubes of the right diameter, which are only slightly less flimsy. Will probably carry a couple, cut to different lengths, for different focal lengths. Below is a photo taken at the 28mm setting with the hood constructed from one-inch gaffer's tape. How's that for turn-around: from question posted, to equipment design principle provided by PN member, to development, construction, and test photograph shot.P1000707_1000.thumb.jpg.0001447bf3cbec205ca839db13223e17.jpg
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