Developing the New Tri-X in HC-110

Discussion in 'Black and White' started by paul_brenner|1, Nov 3, 2006.

  1. There have been a number of posts regarding the new Tri-X over the past couple
    of years. I've reviewed them, but can't find an answer to my specific
    question:

    I've started mentoring a high school photography club. They've been doing
    things like paper negs, and ard starting to shoot film. Their film supply is
    Tri-X.

    I don't typically use Tri-X, as I use mostly PMK Pyro and the new Tri-X stains
    weirdly. When I did use HC-110 with the old Tri-X, I developed it for 6
    minutes, 68 degrees, and got smooth, easy-to-print negs. (That was 120; I'd
    probably have gone even shorter for 35mm.)

    My question: What are starting point recommendations for HC-110 for the new
    Tri-X? Kodak recommendations are much shorter times; but I've read early
    posts here that the times aren't really that different.

    As this is not my film/developer combo, I'm not going to spend a lot of time
    working on this; I just need some thoughts as starting points, then I'll run a
    roll through.

    Note: I recently shot an Eastern European "old Tri-X equivalent" roll, and
    developed it in HC-110, diluted 1:48, for 6 minutes, and the negs look great.
    But again, I don't know whether the new Tri-X truly requires a shorter
    development time, all else being equal.

    I really appreciate any suggestions.

    Paul
     
  2. My personal time is 1:63 (Dil h) 10mins @ 22C.
     
  3. Probably 200 and the time will be very short.

    I use D76 and the time is 5 1/2 min, 4 1/4 for EI 200.

    The normal rule of thumb is the 400 speed time less 20% for one stop over. If it gets into real short times, lower the temp or dilute the developer. Cutting the stock 1:1 will require you to adjust the time by 1.4x.
     
  4. I use new Tri-X rated 400 13minutes @ 68 degrees, with almost no agitation. This is very close to Stephan. For rating 200 I develop at 10 minutes @ 68 degrees, again 30 seconds agitation to start then two spaced agitations of three inversion. This is with HC-110 dilution H.
     
  5. "I've started mentoring a high school photography club. ... Their film supply is Tri-X."

    Any chance of getting the school to supply D-76 or Xtol?

    My local lab here in Seattle soups Tri-X in D-76 @ 1:1 and the negs are beautiful.

    If this helps, I found this article on HC-110 (B) for the new kodak emulsions. http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/
     
  6. Thanks to all for their comments, especially to Stephen, with his referral to that great Covington HC-110 site, and its info about the new Tri-X.

    Actually, the school has D-76. However, I'm encouraging the use of HC-110 for several reasons, including my concern that D-76 will not always be fresh, with the accompanying increase in alkalinity, increasing contrast. HC-110 is "foolproof" - the syrup lasts essentially forever with no apparent change in results, is easy to mix with a 2 oz. graduate, has a shorter development time, etc.

    I mentioned developing an Eastern European ASA 400 film recently at 1:48 (essentially Dil E) for 6 minutes. Given the info on the Covington website, I think I'll try the same for the new Tri-X and see what it looks like.

    Paul
     
  7. I've kept my developing times the same with this film/developer combination, and the results (at least for me) are similar. I use 1:50 straight from the syrup, 6.5min @ 20C. Now that Rodinal is back for good, I've gone back to it. Although I do still keep some HC-110 around for when I want that look particularly with Plus-X.
    00IgnT-33358084.JPG
     
  8. Paul Brenner: "the syrup lasts essentially forever with no apparent change in results"


    I had a bottle go bad within 2 years. OTOH, Rodinal has been know to last actual decades and still be dependable.
     
  9. I used to use Rodinal some before Pyro became my standard. I used it with T-Max 100. Unbelievable! I don't like T-Max 100 with some other developers, as it is so fine-grained that the results looked "soft". The Rodinal gave it an acutance I couldn't believe. I also learned that Rodinal lasted essentially forever.

    As to the comment that Rodinal is now "back for good": Where can it be had?

    Paul
     
  10. http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=4697

    Here ya go, this will take you right to it.

    Going to be shooting some Plus-X, Tri-X, and Fomapan at the Renaissance on the 19th with one of the Rolleis. For sure will process the Fomapan in Rodinal, but depending on the light, will either go with Rodinal(1:40 10min) or HC-110(1:50 6.5min) for the Kodaks.

    GO Rodinal!
     
  11. Great! I'm a frequent customer of Freestyle; just hadn't looked for it there.
     

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