developing one roll of film in a two roll tank, and rinse question

Discussion in 'Film and Processing' started by sixtyforty, Dec 2, 2018.

  1. Thank you aoresteen and glen.

    My one roll was a success. I used d76 1-1 with gentle inversions and everything turned out well! Thanks for the pointers!
  2. Not all film will scratch with a squeegee, but when one does, it is a pisser. Some films are more prone to scratching, so I stay away from it. Just let the photoflo do its job.
    sixtyforty likes this.
  3. It isn't discussed much, but non-hardening fixers are much more common now.

    Well, for one, emulsions are harder than they used to be, but also because the hardening isn't needed.

    I wonder if that makes them scratch easier.

    If I find scratched film, I usually assume it happened in the camera, not in (my) processing.

    (Well, I also have film back to about 50 years ago when I started. In that case, I
    usually assume poor storage conditions.)

    But I never use a squeegee. Instead, as I believe I learned from my father, run a finger down
    each side. Not squeeze, but the weight of a film clip on the end so that very little pressure
    on the film. Photo-flo also (temporarily) softens skin, so it isn't likely to scratch.
    (If you have very rough skin, it might not soften enough.)
    Henricvs likes this.
  4. I always use two reels in stainless tanks, even if only one (the bottom one) had film and fill the tank. Agitation is by inversion, and a moving reel or excess air results in too much agitation. This, in turn, may cause uneven development and/or excessive contrast. I have large tanks which lay on their side and roll. I fill the extra space with empty reels, but you always use the same amount of solution for this method - enough to cover the center of the reel. The last time I used a spindle for agitation was in 8th grade, before the first Astronauts were named.

    IMO, squeegees are essential, the kind with rubber blades not a sponge. They don't scratch if kept cleen, expecially of any chemicals or gelatin particles which scratch if allowed to harden. My habit was to hold them under running water and wipe the blades between my fingers before use, and shake them dry. Then dip them in the Photoflo solution, shake the excess off and wipe the hanging film from top to bottom. Properly squeegeed film dries quickly and evenly, before dust can collect and stick, or water spots can form streaks and deform the film in the process.

    Sponges are impossible to keep clean. Any dirt of debris hides in the pores where it can't be removed. You can't really absorb the water with a sponge without leaving streaks. A squeegee simply moves the water out of the way, leaving a thin film which dries to the touch in less than a minute.
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2018
  5. The Unicolor FilmDrum, used with the Uniroller, is used horizontally, and as you say filled to the center of the reel.

    There is a movable, rubber sealed, end, such that there isn't excess space, for 1 to maybe 5 reels.

    For color processing, the chemicals are more expensive, so keeping the volume small was important.

    But I never bought one of them.
  6. My anti newton ring piece of glass has been a success, I am pleased with the results it provides with my epson v550.

  7. @sixtyforty Spinning is easier and cleaner, but as you see it depends on personal taste (and some people have reasons that go beyond taste). I use a Paterson tank. Is your tank similar to it? Paterson’s are designed to spin agitation. They are not hermetic so inversion is not possible without doing a mess. I use the included stick to agitate gently. First 30 seconds of the first minute, and then 5 seconds every 30 (with the stick, this means 2 turns in one direction and 2 in the opposite one). Alternatively, if you prefer so or you lost the stick, you can just spin the tank on the table, just on the surface, without even lifting it (in fact, this is what a couple of Photography professors here taught me, but I prefer the stick, and there weren't sticks in their classes!).

    I have only used Paterson tanks or similar, so my recommendation only applies to this kind of tank.

    No squeegee. The Law of Gravitation does the work. Safer and easier. I still haven’t had problems in terms of water marks.

    Kodak recommendation is 1,5ml of Photoflo every 300 ml, but I just used 1 ml (well, that is what the pipette says, I don’t know for sure, a syringe should be more precise), and some people use less. A bit sudsy is normal. One minute bath, first half moving the roll softly. After a good water rinse, of course. And then directly hang the tip when the film is still in the reel, open the reel (if that is possible in yours), and extend the film down to the floor, all this with much care. If you have a cabinet for drying, too much better.

    I am not an expert, almost as novice as you, but that is what I have been doing. You have to find your technique and stick with it, unless there is a reason to change.

    Do you have experience seeing negatives? Did you compare the negs processed by you with other negs? Do your processed negatives looks good, not thin?

    In my opinion (and in other people’s opinion), with Kodak recommendations for TRI-x and D-76 you get very thin negatives. At 68ºF, I develop for 12 minutes.
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2018
  8. @sixtyforty The mark of the first scan is because of too much curbing of the film, I think (it happened to me). It’s great that this anti Newton glass worked fine. Now I have a question for you. I also have an Epson v500, but I only used it with the original plastic holder. Do you see a difference in sharpness in the whole image, in all images, even if they were flat? Do you have some flat (or nearly flat) negative to make a comparison (with and without the glass)?

    What type/brand is the glass? Is it inserted in the original holder, or how is it?

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