Developer Formula for Continuous-tone Microfilm

I have just been made aware of the fact that Freestyle carries Agfa-branded microfilm with 35mm perfs and pre-rolled in a canister.

 

I'd like to eventually use it in 110, but want to experiment in 35mm(plus I have an Olympus Pen FT kicking around that I have yet to use, and want every advantage that I can get).

 

The problem now is that Freestyle says to use a specific developer with the film. They carry it, but it's quite expensive and also currently out of stock.

 

Theirs is a two-bath developer, and from what I've read that is a great way to get lower the contrast in a high-contrast film.

 

Still, I'm wondering if there's something I can make myself that would give good continuous tone results, or if I can use a very dilute version of a developer I already have on hand. Something like a Technidol equivalent seems like it might fit the bill(and as I recall it's a single bath, which I consider a plus).

 

Also, it would be great if the same developer would give good results with litho film. I have had decent luck on litho film with D76 1:4, but would still like a bit less contrast.

 

For reference, I have D76, Dektol, HC-110, Rodinal, and TMAX on hand but am not averse to buying a different commercial developer if it's workable.

Not to rain on your parade, but my limited experience with something like this 30+ years ago was that getting the exact exposure was critical to getting anything that printed very well. It was possible with a manually controlled 35 and careful metering, but I doubt that your Pentax 110 will allow for that degree of control of exposure. Good luck, though...

Hello everyone. Ben you will find that many of these "microfilm" stocks work OK in common developers. I have used Copex with my Obsidian Aqua & 510-Pyro chemistries. For Years PMK-Pyro was a favorite in my Minox cameras with Copex & several other Fuji micro films. Even Coffenol does a great job on some of the Agfa products currently in various offerings. Exposure IS the key, & the dilutions along with times play a factor with these films. Martin Tai has posted often with his Minox & 110 work, so look him up. The Net will surrender ton's of info. My favorite site for these films is Caffenol Blog Post by Rhinehold. . yes, coffee developing! Good luck. Aloha, Bill

If you plan to make extensive use of this film it might be worthwhile to experiment with "home brew" developers. If not, just work with what's available. Look at earlier posts and see what kinds of developers people have tried.

The Stoeckler 2 bath developer formula is pretty simple and should be posted on the web in many places.

 

However, my experience with Tech pan and similar films is not good, and I never managed to get good tonal quality out of it.

 

Since T-Max 100 can be practically grainless, why would you bother with stuff that has to be exposed at 10 ISO?

 

More to the point, why would anyone bother with a smaller format than 135? Not as if you have to smuggle a camera past a security search - or do you?

 

If you ever manage to take a worthwhile picture with such a toy, you'll forever wish you'd taken it with something that could deliver halfway decent technical quality.