Death Valley

<p>I am thinking of going for my fist visit to the Death Valley National Park in a couple of weeks -- i.e., mid-December. I will be alone, in a two-wheel drive minivan, which is reasonably new, and plan to stay there for three days. In you opinion, will I be able, without using unpaved roads, to see some of the good photographic locations? Looking at the map, it seems so, but an opinion from those who've been there would be greatly appreciated. I am not too much of a hiker -- a mile or two without too much climbing is usually quite enough for me.<br>

My other question doesn't concern photography; the national park is huge, and apparently quite empty of people most of the time. Being alone on the road in a beautiful place is fun, but I am not young any more, and I prefer situations where I can reach people if I need help. I understand that cell phones for the most part don't work there. Are the main roads regularly patrolled there by the park rangers? Perhaps a rented satellite phone might be a good solution.<br>

I would appreciate any advice.<br>

M. Ts.</p>

<p>December is a great time to visit Death Valley. You should review the information provided at the <a href="http://www.nps.gov/deva/index.htm">national park service homepage</a>, download the Death Valley visitor guide which has very helpful tips. Without proper vehicle clearance you won't be able to visit the Racetrack Playa, but there's plenty of other interesting things to see. I visited the park last year, around Christmas time, and there were always many visitors everywhere we went, I don't think you'll have any problems.<br>

<img src="http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/9823/land.jpg" alt="" width="720" height="481" /></p>

<p>The first time I went to Death Valley I had a rented Cadillac. The paved roads round there are decent enough not to worry about the driving and the obvious sights- Zabriskie Point, Mesquite Flat dunes, Badwater , Artists Palette and so on are easily accessible and decently populated. There's certainly enough to keep you occupied for three days without worrying about the more difficult roads and some of the shortter dirt roads are fine for 2wd. Its possible you could walk a mile through the dunes and not see another human being,, and indeed its fair to say that you won't get the best photographs there from by the roadside. But a mile or two will cover it off comfortably. Wear a hat and carry water. The walk from the parking lot at Zabriskie Point is quite steep but short, and it doesn't seem to cause serious problems.</p>

<p>I've never felt like I was going to get lost in DV - the mountains either side are a good enough landmark to keep you in approx. the right direction, though I always have a compass in my bag and good maps. If you are comfortable with a GPS or Satellite Phone and it would give you peace of mind then hire one- but there's nothing worse than trying to understand how to use something at the point at which you really need it. I haven't felt vulnerable through not having these things. </p>

<p>Not only just in Death Valley, but also on the route there, there are several areas where there isn't a lot of civilization. For desert driving in general I carry a basic emergency kit. I carry 2 1/2 to 5 gallons of water (one gallon per person per day to drink), maybe some antifreeze, an extra quart or two of oil, some duct tape, a basic kit with screwdrivers, wrenches and the like. I've personally never had to use them, but I did rescue a very grateful gentleman in the Mojave who had blown a heater hose and didn't have any spare water. It also gets quite cool there in the evenings, so make sure you have jackets, maybe an extra blanket, just in case. </p>

<p>Mikhail: The park is well travelled during this time of the year, and the park roads are regularly patrolled by the park ranger. There is no need for concern if you are on the paved roads, and the main attractions are easily accessible on the paved roads. You may not have cell phone service but enough friendly folks to help out. Just don't drive your tank empty (I recall 2-3 gas stations in the park depending on season), bring some warm clothes in case the weather turns, food and water, a road map (e.g. the AAA Death Valley map) and, last but not least, your camera. Given that this is a more remote location, having a newer reliable and serviced car with newer tires is a good choice, of course. Obviously, you should make plans where you stay overnight and, unless you stay (camp) in the park, how long it will take you to get there in the evening from the park. There are some unpaved roads you can normally go in in a 2WD car (e.g. Titus Canyon) but you should be prepared to change a flat tire. If you go on an unpaved road, check with the ranger first about road conditions and plan to be out by mid-afternoon so that you are not the last person for the day (days will be short). Enjoy your trip!</p>

<p>All the advice you've been getting is good. There are 2 gas stations, one at Furnace Creek, the other at Stovepipe Wells (expensive, but the only game in town). Both places have a general store-type shop with food and other supplies. You are right that cell phones won't be useful, but unless you intend to do some serious hiking or 4-wheeling, it won't be an issue. DV's prime season is the spring when the wildflowers bloom, with winter being the second busiest. (Summer is when you want to go to find out why it's called DEATH Valley.) There will be others on the roads and the worst case scenario for a breakdown is probably the wait until the next car comes by. Like others have said, have a supply of water, some food, and clothing warm enough for below normal temps, and you can wait for help comfortably in the vehicle. Carrying tools and repair supplies may also be a good idea if you are inclined to do repairs at the roadside. I live in Las Vegas and go over there regularly on day trips and have never had a problem. I'm partially disabled so I don't do any serious hiking. The folks who get into serious trouble are the ones getting off the paved roads and away from the major attractions - getting away from it all in DV requires meaningful preparation and outdoor skills. <br>

A good park map (download the pdf from the NPS website) is a must - Dante's View, Badwater, Zabriskie Pt, Artist's Palette (my favorite - wait for the sun to get below the mountains!), Salt Creek, the dunes at Stovepipe, Scotty's Castle - all paved-road-accessible - can keep you busy for days.<br>

Have a great trip.</p>

<p>I'll join the chorus. I've visited Death Valley multiple times in a Honda Civic, and it was more than adequate for the paved roads and even a few of the well-traveled dirt roads. There are certainly roads which it wouldn't have handled, but there's plenty to see on a first visit to Death Valley from the main paved roads. Take enough water, warm clothes, food, and similar supplies so that a breakdown will be no worse than an interesting story to talk about in the future, and then don't worry. The main paved roads are well traveled, with someone driving by every few minutes. Solitude is possible in Death Valley, but you've got to leave pavement to achieve it.</p>

<p>I've been to Death Valley frequently in the winter time. For those who are adventurous, I usually recommend a 4WD vehicle and a willingness to get out on foot in order to get the fullest experience of the park. But for anyone who wants to stay closer to the pavement, there is certainly plenty that can be seen and photographed within the limits you mention. Among the places I would recommend that you get out and walk a mile or two are the dunes near Stovepipe Wells (which can be approached from multiple directions), Mosaic Canyon, Golden Canyon and the flats near Badwater. Park rangers, maintenance personnel and other visitors regularly drive on all the major roads so I don't think you need to have any major concerns about being out of cell phone range. Just make sure you have enough gas in the tank before setting out and use common sense.</p>

<p>A cautionary tale:<br>

My son and I were backpacking in the Sierras last summer. On our way back to the airport in Reno we made a side trip to DV. We were coming from the south and decided to take the Trona-Wildrose Rd cutoff of Rt 178. The road insects Rt 190 in the park. We were in a rented Subaru on a Sunday, the 28th of June. Wildrose Rd's pavement became a mix of dirt and pavement after a very short while. After about 30 minutes we passed an oncoming car. Immediately after that, a chunk of pavement ripped the right rear side wall. We put the spare on and continued on our way. We decided not to go to Furnace Creek on the donut. </p>

<p>Not much of a story but here are some take away lessons:</p>

<p>There is NO cell phone service in the Wildrose pass.</p>

<p>Be prepared for a long wait if you are off the beaten path. We did not see another car the rest of the morning. We had food, water, shelter, etc because of what we were doing. </p>

<p>Check your spare and jack before you go.</p>

<p>Once we got cell service, Hertz Emergency Roadside assistance was unable to provide any service in this area. If the donut blew, we were stuck. And thus our decision not to press on to Furnace Creek. </p>

<p>One last note on our rental car. It was a Subaru Impreza all wheel drive. When we finally found a Firestone dealer in Reno (over 350 miles on a donut. And never over 65 - that was the worst part!) who had an exact match for the Bridgestone tire, they were unwilling to install the replacement. It seems they were very concerned with the difference in the diameter of the new tire vs. the old tires. They were concerned that difference in diameter would result in significant speed difference which might cause the differential to fail.</p>

<p>After about an hour and a half the Firestone store closed and locked its doors. Oddly after closing they had an employee come out and he changed the tire in the driveway. I say oddly because I offered to just buy the tire if they would mount it on the rim. I would have then changed it myself in the driveway. But they would have none of that.</p>

<p>Alls well that ends well I guess. We even ponied up to Hertz that I had replaced the tire. They were not the least concerned about the difference in tire diameter.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>M Patrick Dillon</p>

<p>Another take on the same subject. I was driving a rental 4wd SUV on a sharp gravel road near the Eureka Dunes when I got an unmistakeable flat. We had one of these tiny spares (possibly what you call a donut) and fitted it to drive to Stovepipe Wells where we were booked in for the night. It was a long way on irregular gravel roads with a lot of washboarding. I didn't dare drive over 20 because while we were coping with one puncture, we couldn't cope with 2, and there wasn't a soul around. In any case I wanted to keep my fillings. It was dark well before we got there. Next morning after enquiring about the whereabouts of tyre depots, we were directed down the main road to Furnace Creek, where they have the mother and father of a tyre store/replacement facility. When I contacted the rental company (think it may have been Avis) they agreed to pay for the spare and so in an hour after breakfast I was on my way with a new tyre and no bill. The people in DV are used to flats, and are geared up to help. Of course you have to get to Furnace Creek. </p>

<p>OP please note. Both I and the poster above had our flats off the metalled surface. The metalled roads are just fine. </p>

<p>But why do rental companies hire you a 4wd SUV and then put street tyres on it? </p>

<p>Thank for all the useful and advice and for the stories of travel in DV. I have decided that because of the distance to postpone the trip until early spring when the flowers are blooming -- if I am going to drive 500 miles, I'd better see it all! Again, many thanks for sharing your wisdom.</p>

<p>Rental 4WD's come with stock tires and these are usually all season tires, not offroad tires. On gravel roads, flats can be largely avoided by going slow, no matter what tires you have.</p>

<p>Try to find yourself a copy of:<br>

"California Desert Byways" by Tony Huegel<br>

<a href="http://groups.google.com/group/rec.photo.technique.nature/browse_thread/thread/bec1f6f82fd606b6/cf88780a4e7953d2?lnk=gst&q=%22cerro+gordo%22">http://groups.google.com/group/rec.photo.technique.nature/browse_thread/thread/bec1f6f82fd606b6/cf88780a4e7953d2?lnk=gst&q=%22cerro+gordo%22</a>#</p>

<p>Since you've got a few more months to plan, try to find a copy of "Hiking Death Valley" by M. Digonnet. While the emphasis is on hikes, the book also offers a fantastically detailed guide to the area. It's worth a read just for the educational content. http://www.amazon.com/Hiking-Death-Valley-Natural-Wonders/dp/0965917800/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1260241970&sr=1-2<br>

Another good book is http://www.amazon.com/Death-Valley-Geology-Ecology-Archaeology/dp/0520030133/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1260241930&sr=1-1 This may not do much for your photographic efforts, but the background information will give you an appreciation for this unique terrain.<br>

If you wind up with a decent SUV, try to hit Titus Canyon. I've driven it multiple times in a variety of vanilla sedans. It's gravel, but is generally well maintained (barring winter storm damage.) The road delivers a magnificent drive through the highlands of the rugged Grapevine Mountains, topped by a drive down a pretty slot canyon. http://www.desertusa.com/mag99/may/stories/titus.html</p>