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"de-click" the diopter adjustment knob?


chulster

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Hi all,

 

You know how videographers "de-click" aperture rings on lenses to be able to turn the ring freely without having stops (detentes) get in the way of precisely setting the aperture to intermediate values?

 

Well, I would like to do the same to the diopter adjustment knob on my D810. I use two pairs of glasses, one for distant vision and one for close-up seeing. I like to be able to use my camera without changing glasses, and so I adjust the viewfinder diopter more often than most people presumably do. Also, my vision changes as the day progresses; I need less diopter adjustment in the early morning than in the rest of the day.

 

The thing is, it always seems as if the perfect diopter adjustment is between two clicks on the knob. That's why I want to de-click it.

I read that one can take the knob off by removing the screw inside it after peeling off the sticker that has the +/- symbols on it. Has anybody here removed this knob on their camera, perhaps in the course of removing the top plate for DIY repair purposes? If so, do you think it would be reasonably easy to de-click the knob?

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While I understand your reasons, I'm wondering if "declicking" the diopter knob might make it too easy for it to slip off the set value?

 

I've seen a lot of posts over the years about cameras not focusing properly that resulted from accidental "adjustment" of the diopter wheel....

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While I understand your reasons, I'm wondering if "declicking" the diopter knob might make it too easy for it to slip off the set value?

 

It's a valid concern. I would probably have to add some improvised additional bushing (or whatever the hell you would call it) to increase the turning friction after declicking. That's assuming I have the crafting skills for that!

 

I am assuming the knob would still lock when it's pushed in, even after declicking. This might be a false assumption.

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This is one of those situations where you might be served well by a body with a rectangular eyepiece. On all of those that I've used, the adjustment is a slider to the right of the eyepiece. Unfortunately, it's a lot less precise than the wheel, and can also be bumped easily if you don't have an eyecup on the camera. Still, though, it doesn't have "clicks."

 

BTW, my glasses correct my vision well enough that -1(the standard setting on fixed cameras, and all the way to - on variables) is the correct setting for me. I too have run into the problem of thinking the camera wasn't focusing correctly when I bought a new camera or had inadvertently adjusted it. Even though I KNOW where I'm going to end up, I always set the diopter by adjusting until the non-image portions of the viewfinder(readouts, etc) are sharpest rather than looking at the focusing screen.

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This is one of those situations where you might be served well by a body with a rectangular eyepiece.

 

Downgrade from my D810? Never!

 

BTW, how do you know what the numerical value of your diopter setting is? Do you count the number of clicks from one of the extremes, which have known values?

Edited by chulster
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BTW, how do you know what the numerical value of your diopter setting is? Do you count the number of clicks from one of the extremes, which have known values?

 

Actually, I spoke a bit too soon. I just checked a D70 I have in my office and played around with it, and it's near the bottom but not all the way.

 

My -1 comment was based on the fact that I know fixed diopter Nikons to be -1, and I can see them as crisply(with my glasses on) as I can one with a properly set adjustable finder.

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Downgrade from my D810? Never!

 

BTW, how do you know what the numerical value of your diopter setting is? Do you count the number of clicks from one of the extremes, which have known values?

 

Speaking of which I think it would be benefit for me to know what setting it is set at so I can quickly set it back to where it was.

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Speaking of which I think it would be benefit for me to know what setting it is set at so I can quickly set it back to where it was.

 

On my MG, the timing marks are on the underside of the engine and incredibly inconvenient. I made a secondary top dead center mark by putting a white out mark on top of the balancer and a corresponding mark on the timing cover. Of course, mine needed to be big and bright enough to be seen with a xenon timing light.

 

Perhaps, though, you could use a fine point sharpie to make a mark on the wheel and another on the prism.

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The clicks are there to keep the dial from being accidentally moved. Nobody counts clicks, rather adjust until lines in the viewfinder are sharp. It takes only a moment.

 

I have reading and distant prescriptions, and sometimes I take my glasses off to better view the edges of the frame. Furthermore, my eyes change a little during the course of the day. I would need a dope card taped to the back of the camera ;)

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Well, I would like to do the same to the diopter adjustment knob on my D810. I use two pairs of glasses, one for distant vision and one for close-up seeing. I like to be able to use my camera without changing glasses, and so I adjust the viewfinder diopter more often than most people presumably do. Also, my vision changes as the day progresses; I need less diopter adjustment in the early morning than in the rest of the day.

Just wondering : would something like a "Mcoplus 1.08x-1.60x Zoom Viewfinder Eyepiece Magnifier" or similar work for you ?

Gadgets like these are much easier to quickly adjust, and give some extra magnification when needed for critical situations too ....

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Just wondering : would something like a "Mcoplus 1.08x-1.60x Zoom Viewfinder Eyepiece Magnifier" or similar work for you ? Gadgets like these are much easier to quickly adjust, and give some extra magnification when needed for critical situations too ....

 

After reading a few Amazon listings and a review on The Phoblographer, it doesn't seem like this gadget is meant to adjust diopter, but only magnification. But it's perhaps cheap enough I might try it. Thanks for the tip!

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