Dark negatives HP5+ at 200

Discussion in 'Black and White' started by ricardovaste, Jun 12, 2006.

  1. Hi,
    I've just developed some negatives rates at 200 [hp5+] and they came out very
    dark, you cant see the image unlessyou hold it up to direct light.

    I used ID-11 1:3 14mins
    ilfostop 15ml in 300 10secs
    ilford rapid fixer 60ml in 300 3mins
    washes out in water for 5~6mins

    I followed the timing off digitaltruth.com and ive been developing hp5+ at 400
    and 800 asa in the same chemicals for about the last three months now.

    The main reason i posted this is because they were my dads photos and i was
    wondering if i can still salvage them and where i have gone wrong.

    I should also add that the ID-11 cant be much over a month old and has been
    kept in a light tight and air tight container [though it was half full as the
    collapsable bottle was a bit dodgy]

    I would appreciate a reply to this so that i know whats going on.
    Thanks a lot,
    Richard
     
  2. There is a book by Fred Picker, Zone V! Workshop. You can get it for just a few books, I got mine for $1.00 plus shipping. It go through the process of testing your camera and development times to establish proper settings. You will need to fine access to a densitometer (some film processors will let you use one). It really can save you a bunch of time and headaches.

    Rick
     
  3. Since you didn't shoot the images yourself, there is a chance that they were not actually exposed at 200...
     
  4. Richard,
    While loading the film on the reel it may have become fogged.Check to make sure that there are no light sources that can contribute to that problem.Any and all sources can cause problems.
     
  5. Thanks for the replies. Evan, I'm possitive that it was at 200 because i was the one who put it there for him because it was a fairly bright day and there was no need for it to be 400 [thanks for bringing it up though, so we can find out what happened].
    John, I was working with a darkroom lamp, but not in the usual location, i was squashed in a closet and the lamp was under 3 feet away from the film most of the time - could this be the most likely issue? the negatives don't even show the information at the 'top' and 'bottom' [where it says the film make and the frames] so im im presuming it has then got to be something to do with when i loaded it into the tanks and light getting on the whole of the film.
    Can i still print from these? I havent had a film go wrong before this so i havent had the opportunity to try and print a 'dodgy' film.
    thanks for the input and the suggestions,
    Richard
     
  6. Richard,

    I don't develop my own B&W (despite the fact that I know I should)... but I think only orthochromatic (blue-sensitive) film can be safelight illuminated. Your use of safelight may have fogged the film during loading.

    From the HP5+ data sheet:

    Safelight recommendations
    Handle HP5 Plus film in total darkness. For very
    brief inspections during processing, use the ILFORD
    908 (very dark green) safelight filter, with a 15W
    bulb, fitted in a darkroom lamp (such as the
    ILFORD DL10 or DL20). Do not allow direct
    lighting from the safelight to fall on the film.
     
  7. If you loaded the film in anything but complete darkness, I assume this to be your problem. I was told a safelight will ruin film, and always to load film in the tank in a completely dark room. If you are unsure if it is completely dark, allow you eyes 10 minutes or so to adjust to the darkness, then you can see any light leaks in the room.
     
  8. Yes, thanks for just comfirming that. It seems you've solved the problem. I don't really know why i used the safelight, as ive done it fine for the last few months in complete darkness, guess i was just trying to make it a bit easier. I won't be taking any shortcuts again.
    Thanks, Richard.
    p.s. so does anyone know whether i can get decent prints from this? or is it for the bin... :-(
     
  9. they're gone if they were fogged during the loading. contrast will be almost non existant.
     
  10. Richard I had the same exact problem with the same film the problem is it has to be put on the reel in complete darkness When i used a safelight that was way across the room all the negs came out dark even the edging on the film was black I thought it was over exposure or over development but in fact it was the procedure i used to put it on the reel


    Mark
     
  11. thanks for all the help. i wont make the same mistake again. richard
     
  12. If you loaded the HP5 for your Dad, and you rated it "at 200 because it was a bright day and he did not need 400", the film is over-exposed by one full stop. Unlike Tri-X, HP5+ can usually be exposed at EI400.

    All the other answers may also be correct, but this is an underlying problem for the "Dark" film.
     
  13. Yes james, i was well aware that i was over exposing the film by one stop, i did so because 'it was a sunny day' and the lower iso would reduce the grain, so there was no need for it to be exposed at 400. I was also aware that when you change the iso setting to the speed on the box this has to be made up in the darkroom [and i did so 1:3 for 14mins, as stated on digitaltruth.com] - as i stated before i had been pushing the film to 800. I have already concluded that the only reason for the dark negatives [covering the whole of the film] was because of the safelight. But thanks for the input anyway.
    Richard
     

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