Jump to content

Dark Church Lighting


dave_lych

Recommended Posts

<p>I have shot a few weddings in fairly dark Church's using my SB-600 & D300 set at ISO 400 f/8-9 (with Gary Fong diffuser) 35-70 2.8 lens.....so that everyone is in focus. Aperature priority with a f/8 or 9, the images are not too bright unless I am right up near the couple. I don't want to impact the moment of the wedding by being right in the couple's face. I could pump up the ISO but even with my D300 I don't like the level of noise creaping up with higher ISO. I was thinking of using my second SB-600 (on Tripod-slave) to fill the room more...I would apprechiate any suggestions that might allow me to back out of the way of the way because my zooms are not very fast. I have read that many photographers shoot at f/2.8.....too soft for me. Suggestions?</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>I would up the ISO a tad, and maybe utilize a noise reduction software in post-production. I use a D300 as well and have noticed the noise isn't TOO bad at about 600-800 ISO. You're lucky they're letting you use flash! I've run into so many no-flash allowed situations where my ISO had to be bumped to super-high levels.</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>One thing at a time. First, the reason your pictures are 'not too bright' at ISO 400, f8-9, with the Lightsphere is because your flash can't put out enough light (having to go through the Lightsphere) to light the subjects correctly. The Lightsphere depends a lot on bounce, and if you are in a large, dark church or a church with dark ceilings and walls, you aren't going to get much reflectivity to help you, at ISO 400, at f8-9. The LS can do OK without a lot of bounced to help it, but as you found out, you have to be very close to your subjects because basically, the light coming out the front of the unit is what is mainly lighting the subjects.</p>

<p>Second, while you could use an off camera flash to help raise the light level, you need to find out if that is allowed--both flash by itself, and off camera flash, where you are setting something up. Many churches do not allow you to set up extra lights during the ceremony. Even if you are allowed, at ISO 400, you will be getting pretty harsh lighting since your EV isn't very close to the ambient, and you aren't going to get a lot of reflectivity unless the walls and ceiling are white or light colored.</p>

<p>Third--there is no reason to use f8-9 during the ceremony. I use f5.6 for processionals and formals to give myself a DOF margin, but I'm using flash (bounced or not), and am within 12 feet of my subjects, at ISO 800. During the ceremony, I use wider apertures--without flash, up to and including wide open, which could be f1.8 or f1.4. You just pick the subject that should be in focus. From the distances one normally shoots from during the ceremony, DOF is actually quite enough even wide open, many times. f2.8 is not what I'd consider wide. And your 'too soft' comment is puzzling. Something is too soft if it isn't in focus or there is no focus point, there is motion blur, or the lens is not capable of the necessary resolution. Given these, a subject is either in focus (sharp) or not. With a wide angle lens from a greater distance, f2.8 can have plenty of DOF.</p>

<p>Be sure that you are not underexposing when you use the higher ISOs--underexposure is what 'causes' noise. Overexpose by a tiny bit, even.</p>

<p>My suggestions to you would be:</p>

<p>1. If you're going to use flash, use flash that is capable of rendering your subject exposed correctly. If that means not using the LS, or not bouncing, or using some other modifier, then do so.</p>

<p>2. Use wider apertures--intelligently. Know what kind of DOF you are going to get at what subject distances and f stops you use for a given focal length. Possibly get wider aperture lenses. Where are you getting soft images?</p>

<p>3. Use higher ISOs and don't underexpose. I thought the D300 was one of the first Nikons not to have such a problem with the higher ISOs.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>As mentioned I would not use a Fong in a "Dark Church" (interpreted as having high ceilings): <em>a modifier with more bounce direct from the Flash head would be better. </em><br>

A different/ more direct modifier will give you more range. (like a bounce card as one example).</p>

<p>ISO800 should not be a no go zone - if noise is a problem you got to be underexposing, or the camera is bung, IMO. <br>

ISO 800 will give you more range.</p>

<p>Multiple Flashes posted around a Church during the Ceremony I avoid - but that's just me - I think "kids falling on them".</p>

<p>My guess is you would be working that zoom (35 to 70) Between FL = 35 and FL = 50mm. Therefore at F2.8 (in round figures) you are safe with a DoF to 24" at a 12 Ft Subject distance using and APS-C body.<br>

So . . . I use my 16 to 35 on my 20D at F/4 - which gives me a DoF I can drive a large truck through at SD = 12ft. Even at FL = 50mm if you stay at 12ft SD, you have about 3 ft DoF . . . so I don't understand why you are using F/8 & F/9? <br>

F/4 will give you more range. </p>

<p>I also do not understand what you mean by:” I would appreciate any suggestions that might allow me to back out of the way of the way <strong ><em >because my zooms are not very fast.</em></strong>" <br>

> Do you mean they do not AF fast?<br>

> What are the zooms (plural)? <br>

And, I think we need to isolate <strong ><em >why F2.8 is soft?</em></strong> - that could be a focus issue - or other issues, you might like to post an example, for analysis. <br>

<br>

WW<br>

</p>

<p > </p>

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

<p>William W - wonderfully detailed answer - thanks! Yes, when I first got my Gary Fong LS I was so in love with it I made the mistake of trying to shoot church processionals/recessionals with it. Big mistake. What William says is entirely true - you just waste too much flash over your head with it in a church setting. For processionals I tend to just go with my flash bare directed straight at the subjects on a bracket. This way I make sure to have enough light on them as they are far away and moving closer. The bracket makes sure that the shadows fall behind them and out of the way. Though I usually woudn't want such a harsh direct light, I find that when I want to have a smaller aperture for DOF in a big dark setting you just have to sacrifice the nice softly lit ambient light look.<br>

William, I'd love to know your thoughts on that set up. I'm never too happy with my church processional/recessionals and I'd love to hear what you modify with. Do you usually just do a 60th at F5.6?</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...