D700 in very cold weather

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by artyom_liss, Nov 17, 2010.

  1. Dear all,
    I am going to Yakutsk, in Siberia, for work. This morning, the temperature there was -44C. Naturally, I am very keen to take my D700 along.... but I'm slightly concerned. Do you think I might damage it in this sort of weather?
    Thanks
     
  2. ShunCheung

    ShunCheung Administrator

    I would certainly bring the camera with you on the trip. It may not be a good idea to take the D700 outside and use it when it snowing heavily; gernally speaking, it is bad to get electronics wet.
    Additionally, you might want to bring 1 or 2 extra EN-EL3e batteries, perferably new ones, as batteries will not last as long under cold weather.
    Be careful when you bring your camera indoors, as condensation may form on the camera during a cold-to-warm transition.
     
  3. you may want to google up the luminous landscape's 2009 antarctic expedition, where none of the nikons (mostly D700s) failed. but this is a fairly common topic on this forum, and if you use the search function you'll find many anecdotes as well as a bunch of good tips for keeping your gear going in extreme conditions. with a bit of preparation and care on your part, there's no reason not to take your camera.
     
  4. ShunCheung

    ShunCheung Administrator

    Well, that Luminous Landscape's 2009 Antarctic trip generated a lot of sensational discussion mainly because a bunch of Canon 5D Mark II failed while apparently none of the D700 did. A few months later, I met a person who was on that trip; according to him, those Canon users totally mis-treated their 5D II and that was the main reason for those failures.
    I have been to the Antarcitc twice. It really is not that cold during those trips, perhaps merely around freezing. As long as you use some common sense, your equipment should be fine. Keep in mind that the D700 is merely weather sealed; it is by no means waterproof.
    The OP will likely encounter much colder conditions @ -40 degrees.
     
  5. Hi Artyom,
    My elder brother went there 2 ears ago, and I remember him reporting that most equpment fails over there. He was carying a simple electronic calculater with e lcd-display lik on the top of nikon camera's, and that display froze and has refused to operate after that since...
    Also all pens containing ink did not work there, so all writing is was done with pencil ...
    The only camera that did not stop working was my old FM2a that he took with him ..... ( and its still going strong... :) ).
    So maybe consult Nikon themselves on beforehand to make sure ?
     
  6. At -44°C there is no "wet". However, there will be beaucoup condensation bringing a camera that cold indoors. Be sure to bag the cold equipment before taking it inside.
     
  7. Hi Artyom,
    I would not advice to take outside your D700 when are -44°C.... This is an insane temperature, both for people and for any DSLR. You may take your camera with you but use it only indoor unless the outside temperatures comes down to -20°C or less. Even at -20°C I do not advice to keep it outside unprotected for a long time. It would be great if you can use any armor, even a DIY kind of... Do not forget UV and ND filters... You will need there! Also don't change lenses at a very low temperature....
    Good luck!
     
  8. I use my Nikons in cold weather all the time (approx. 6 months a year). The biggest problem is if you breathe anywhere near the lens, as you will get ice on the front element. I always try to direct my breath away from the camera, and hold it while taking a picture. When I come inside I remove the battery and don't reinsert it for several hours. Never had a problem. As Shun mentions your batteries are going to drain extremely fast. At -20C my EN-EL3e's only give me a quarter of what they usually do. At -40C you'll likely get even less, but then you're probably not going to to be out for very long at a time at that temperatiure anyway. I was out cross country skiing in -42C last winter and after an hour and a half I felt it was time to get somewhere warm, but YMMV. Anyway, I always keep my batteries in a pocket close to my skin to keep some charge in them while they are not in use.
     
  9. Artyom - I was in Yellowstone last winter and the temps were between -20 deg and -40 deg (C/F) with a D300s, camping for 9 days. The build is about the same between the D300s & the D700. The first tough part is the battery. Keep your batteries in your jacket/pocket until you're ready to shoot. Otherwise @ -30deg, they'll die very quickly. If you keep the battery warm, you'll get plenty of shooting. I brought 8 batteries and used up 5. It took me 2 quick dead batteries to figure out what to do. I also did a lot of time-lapse which eats up batteries no matter what.
    When you go from the cold outside to a warm inside, put the camera in a ziplock and let it warm up. That way the condensation will happen on the bag and not your nice camera.
    Don't breath on your viewfinder, lens or LCD - even to blow it off. You'll get an instant glaze of frost that's very difficult to deal with. I used a 12-24, 24mm, 50mm & 18-105, as I recall. All performed flawlessly.
    Email me if you need more info.
     
  10. If you have the vertical battery grip for the D700, the Nikon MB-D10, your battery concerns are minimal to non-existent. Instead of installing Nikon’s Lithium-Ion (EN-EL3e) battery in the grip, use the 8-AA battery holder (MS-D10) and install Energizer Lithium batteries (Lithium Iron Disulfide (Li/FeS2), non-rechargeable). They’ll be fine at -40. If you don’t have the MB-D10, plan on rotating batteries from your warm pocket to the camera.
    The D700 is sufficiently sealed to keep snow/ice from penetrating as moisture won’t be in a liquid state. Changing lenses at low temps poses no risk. As an aside I’ll strongly suggest getting your glove system sorted-out in advance.
     
  11. Hi guys
    Thank you all for advice, really helps a lot.
    The reason I was getting concerned is that the cameraman I'm going with (I'm a TV producer) is freaking out big time - saying he cannot guarantee his huge pro video camera will work, buying all sorts of specialist heated sleeves for it, etc., etc. So I thought - if a $15000 Betacam is in danger of packing up, shouldn't I be thinking twice?
    Anyway, thank you for your contributions. Hopefully I'll be able to share some pix when we come back.
     
  12. I now have a D700, but I already brought my old D90 outsite 24h/24h for 3 days with temperatures between -20 and -35, with the wind blowing cold and hard. Now problem what-so-ever, I guess electronical equipment is not so sensitive to temperature changes. For example, my graphics processor unit on my computer can go up to 105-110 Celcius before failing.
    Try bringing two batteries and keeping one warm(in your coat) while the other is in the camera. And avoid humidity near the camera if you can find any.
    Hope this helps.
     
  13. A check with Nikon wouldn't hurt. In past years, cameras could be CLA serviced with low-temp lubes for cold environments (especially shutter and lens diaphragms). With today's synthetic lubes it might not be necessary, but it couldn't hurt to phone or email and ask the question. You can carry small chemical heater packs to keep the batteries warm in an outside coat pocket. Otherwise, I'd carry them in an inner pocket. Maybe something similar in the bag...just enough to keep LCD displays on the camera body from freezing.
     
  14. Is that -44C with or without the windchill?
    Having used a D40 (yes, you read that correctly) through two Canadian winters, where temperatures regularly hit -35 or colder, without a single failure, I can't imagine a weather-sealed D700 will have any problems in such conditions.
    In those conditions, the camera body will quickly cool the ambient temperature. Snow will not condense on the body and can be easily wiped away.
    All of the usual rules of using an SLR in cold weather apply:
    1. Hold your breath when shooting and changing lenses so that it doesn't exhale and condense on year gear.
    2. Seal your gear in a bag before going inside and leave it in the bag overnight before opening.
    3. Bring at least one spare battery and keep it warm when not in use (you will need to change them every few minutes)
     
  15. In the days of yore Nikon used to have cold battery packs where there would be a cable that went from your camera battery compartment into your pocket where the battery would remain warm. I'm surprised that Nikon doesn't make it for the D700.
     
  16. I live in mongolia where it also gets very cold. I think that you will find that the -44C you have been told about is the extreme and that normality is much warmer than that, especially at this time of year. The really cold time is first half of Jan. When people talk about Mongolia they always make it out to be much colder than it really is. Sure it can go below -50C, but actually during the daytime it doesn't go below -30 very often. -44C is seriously cold and I would be more worried about my skin freezing etc rather than my camera. When it is cold, i.e -30C or so, keep your camera inside your jacket or whatever and only take it out to take pics. At these temperatures you can't do anything else - your fingers will freeze up (it is almost impossible to operate it with gloves on). What I am saying really is that your camera will not experience extreme cold for long periods of time, so don't worry. This part of the world is also incredibly dry so have no fear about wet electronics. Your cameraman on the other hand does have a lot to be concerned about because his equipment will be exposed for long periods of time and any moving parts may seize. I have a D70 by the way, which has been exposed to all kinds of brutal conditions in mongolia for 6 years and never once failed. I am sure that yours is better sealed than mine. Have fun!
     
  17. “In the days of yore Nikon used to have cold battery packs…”
     
    My gosh, I had forgotten about those old cold battery packs.
     
    I cannot remember if they provided power for just the motor drive or if they also provided power for the light meter? Either way, they were very useful for the yesterday’s mechanical cameras and something similar would be very useful for today’s electronic cameras.
    .
     
  18. Yakutsk - the coldest city on earth. Sounds challenging :)
    LCDs get very slow to update even around -20. I'm not sure how cold you can go before they start to suffer damage. I'm sure though that Nikon's warranty doesn't cover damage at the extreme temperatures that the Siberian winter can result in :)
    Note that when going below -40, some metals start to get brittle. This may or may not be a problem with the D700. It should be ok if there's no mechanical stress on the equipment, but I don't know how the circuit boards will fare if they actually reach those temperatures. Better not to stay out too long if the temps drop below -40...
     
  19. Have you thought about bringing an all mechanical film backup? Just a thought.
    Something else to try, is if you are using a gear back is keeping one of those hand warmer pouches in there by the spare battery(s). You might also be able to set one up next to the battery compartment on the camera itself. I have heard other people reccomend this, never tried it. I haven't shot below -10F to my knowledge. But at that temp, I didn't even notice battery issues with a D200 (same battery). I did have a Sigma stop functioning, but that is another matter entirely.
    And at that temp, I did not have condensation issues going back indoors. Came right inside an offloaded the cards from the shoot right onto the computer.
     
  20. Thanks for all your replies guys!
    I e-mailed Nikon last night, and here is what they sent me:
    Thank you for your email.

    Regrettably, our cameras are not tested and therefore not guaranteed to work properly in sub-zero temperatures. On the other hand, we have heard numerous reports about our cameras being successfully used in arctic conditions.

    The biggest threat to any electronic equipment in very low temperatures seems to be water vapour condensation and the shortened battery life. To prevent the first, I would recommend to store the camera in a sealed container (ie. zip-lock bag or plastic food box) with some silica-gel packets when not in use. Also, it is recommended to protect the camera from the air exchange during temperature changes - by locking in the container - during first 15-20 minutes of an outdoor trip and the same time when you return indoors. It is also important not to keep your equipment under clothing when walking in the cold due to different temperature and humidity.

    Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent shorter battery life caused by the low temperature. The best solution would be to carry a spare one at all times, kept in a warm place - i.e the inner jacket pocket (there is no problem with condensation, as all batteries are sealed), and replace when needed. Please note that "frozen" lithium battery will return to normal charge level when warmed up.

    Unfortunately we are not able to predict if any other issue may develop due to such extreme temperatures. Hopefully your equipment will withstand them with no problem.​
    So I suppose I'll just be sensible and follow their advice.
    Thanks again!
     
  21. Apart from batteries that you will need to be kept warm, the biggest problem will be human. -44C is about the temp at the top of Everest, and skin will freeze in a few minutes. So if you have not experienced the delights of frostbite, you better be well prepared.
    Hopefully the temp will be a more reasonable -20C or so. Anyone who has watched episodes of Ice Road Truckers will see what -30C is like at Prudoe Bay in winter. At that temperature the trucks can never be turned off as the fluids in the motor and gearbox will solidify, splitting them apart, the diesel will turn to jelly and the suspension springs will crack, not bend when they are flexed.
    If you are going to Siberia as part of a commercial photography venture, make sure that the company's liability insurers know about it and have you covered for those extremes...it could become a serious OH&S issue if your video cameramans face froze off.
    (-44C...Fair dinkum. Thats cold!) Here in Sydney, we nearly die if it drops to +5C in winter. But we are stupid and try to wear our summer shorts and T shirts all year long!)
     
  22. ShunCheung

    ShunCheung Administrator

    To the OP, thanks for forwarding the info from Nikon. In a way it is the typical "cover their back side" type answer (they cannot guarantee performance for their cameras under such extreme cold), but they do have a few common-sense tips; I am glad those tips are generally the same as the other answers in this thread. So we are not out of line.
    Yeah, generally speaking, if you can tolerate the cold, so can the camera. If you cannot, both you and the camera should go back indoors.
    Have a great trip.
     
  23. http://www.luminous-landscape.com/locations/alaska-winterscapes.shtml
    D700.
    -40F encountered. Battery 25 exposures duration. Failure to bag the camera going from cold to warm resulted in condensation under the sensor filter, and a visit to a repair facility.
    Have fun.
     
  24. Some of the older manual Nikons had a separate battery pack that you could attach to your camera and stick in your pocket.
    What a great idea. It's a shame no does anything like that any more, especially with today's cameras which are utterly reliant on batteries.
     
  25. Whoops.
    I re-read the article too quickly. The D700 did not suffer the moisture problem; n.b., thoroughly bagged regularly. It was a Hasselblad H3D that ended up in the shop after getting sensor condensation.
     
  26. ShunCheung

    ShunCheung Administrator

    David Ralph, it is not a matter of Canon vs. Hasselblad vs. Nikon. If the user is not careful about preventing moisture onto the camera, especially the mechanics and electronics, any brand and any model could fail in the extreme cold.
    That is why I think those sensational discussion about so many 5D Mark II failed during such and such trip is just silly. That is merely the usual brand name flame wars.
     
  27. The coldest I've had my stuff out in was about -20C, and the only problem I had was when my tripod loosened up and fell apart.
    I terms of the whole 5D failure discussion, don't forget that Canon does not weatherseal them - they basically have the sensor of a $6000 camera in the body of a $1000 camera.
     
  28. The OP will not have moisture problems, as long as he doesn't breathe directly onto the lens. It is as dry as a bone here (mongolia) and people have humidifiers to try and do the reverse. Current weather forecast for Yakutsk shows a fairly mild -10C or so during the day, -30 or so at night. OP has nothing to worry about.
     
  29. I have traveled with mine to Harbin, China (-40) and Tomsk, Russia (Siberia -35 or so) and had no problems. I changed lenses outside, being careful to have my ski mask over my mouth and bagged the camera for fifteen minutes in and out. That's the big thing ... do not forget as if you get condensation on a lens and it freezes, it may be dark by the time you can shoot again.
    For me, the most important issue is what kind of gloves you have and how you will handle the camera. I frequently had to remove mine on my first trip in order to effect settings, which is why my hands were so cold that I dropped the damn thing. I literally could not feel that it was in my hand anymore.Don't mess around .... it can hit you fast at those temps. The second time, I took a pair of thin gloves that I wore under my big gloves. I could take my gloves off to change lenses and still have some protection.
    You may also want to give some thought to the logistics of this, where you will set your gloves if you take them off, where you can place the lens in your bag, etc.
    Have fun ... it's beautiful country. Stay away from that damn hot pepper vodka.
     
  30. I shot Nikon d200s and d70s at -50F (as well as Canon 1ds). Both have functioned flawlessly in the cold. The LCDs on the back and top get a little less sensitive. If you are prone to chimping, you might want to turn the histogram on. The En-ELe batteries don't do bad in the cold. I would make sure you have a spare battery to put in an inside pocket to warm up. I found that manual focus rings start to get pretty stiff. I would end up switching to autofocus, and it would work fine. I was told with the older 1d bodies, to expect slightly less noise with a cold soaked camera, but I don't know if that is true. Aside from LCD deadening, potential lens focusing issues and the batteries, those other Nikons functioned fine.
    I built a little camera oven that I could put my camera into in my camera bag. I just put a bunch of hand warmers to warm it. The best thing to give your camera a little edge is toe warmers. They are a smaller chemical hand warmer with a sticky back. I would put that over the grip area of my D200 or D70s or the battery compartment of my 1d. Eventually the cold will get the best of everything (including you), and you will need to go inside.
    Make sure you have a plastic bag to put your cold soaked camera in, so it does not get iced up when you take it back inside. The condensation will freeze it up.
    Working well outside of your camera's factory specs might be hard on your gear. It can definitely be hard on your gear because the cold is hard on the photographer. Cold hands or hands in gloves don't work as well, it is hard to move around in cold weather gear and snow is slippery.
    Be safe and have fun.
     
  31. I'd like to close by inviting anyone who is sick of photographing in the northern hemisphere at -50C, to come with me on a trip to the outback in January and I'll introduce you to +50C. Lets test our cameras at that for a point of camparison.
     
  32. I'm sorry Shadforth
    I'll be on a walkabout by then.....
     
  33. I would echo Erik Thomson's comments, in particular about the actual temperatures you are likely to experience. I very much doubt you will reach those extreme temperatures and if you do you'll be more worried about your survival than your cameras! I've used a D70, D200 and D700 (with various amateur and 'pro' lenses) over the years in temperatures between -10 and -25 degrees Celsius (ignoring wind chill) without any camera difficulties in places such as Mongolia and in the high himalaya. It was never the cold itself that gave me cause for concern but the dust that you get in such dry environments and the condensation when you do finally move back inside to warmer temperatures (think of the condensation that forms on the outside of a cold gin and tonic). Keep plenty of spare batteries with you so that you can keep some in warmer temperatures (e.g. pockets inside your jacket) and your battery life should be quite reasonable.
     
  34. I have used my D300 in temps down to -38F, -42F. I regularly photo at night when it ranges between -10F & -20F. I've not had any issues. I keep two charged batteries in an inside pocket, and just leave my camera outside in my car all winter rather than bring it in & out of the cold. Be careful to not breathe on the lens or viewfinder. Reduce or eliminate LCD use and AF if you are running into battery life problems. I've dropped my D300 in snow a number of times with no effect, and regularly have left it sitting on a tripod during blizzards. No problems. I would assume the D700 is similar.
    Kent in SD
    00XiLU-303955584.jpg
     
  35. Shun, I just now saw your remark. You reminded me about the Reichmann article on Antarctica and equipment failures, which I read at the time but did not allude to here. I agree with you as to the practice of avoiding condensation being key with any camera. I live in New York State, and I take winter photos both in and north of the Adirondack Park pretty regularly, but not quite at the extreme temps the OP inquired about -- though the opportunity is present in the mountains. Plastic bags are in my kit all through the cold weather.
    I envy the time and ability to visit the Antarctic in its summer, but where temps and weather are reported to be milder than what I have dealt with all of my life in the northern US. That is why the Michael Reichmann story about the Canon failures was so remarkable to me personally. I.e., the conditions which Michael reported were not very cold at all compared to what we often experience here in the continental USA and in southern Ontario and Quebec. Mark Dubovoy's article in the Nov/Dec issue of Photo Technique magazine is about that same Antarctic trip, and he states that folks with professional level gear experienced no problems as opposed to those with less than professional gear. He was not shooting Nikon BTW. Elsewhere, someone accused those folks who suffered camera failures of poor practices around cold and moisture; how those personal failings align along particular levels of equipment lines as well is not explained well.
    The OP wanted to know how D700s do in the cold. The D700 did well for the fellow who took them to Alaska to photograph the Aurora Borealis in horrendously cold weather, much colder than the usual Antarctic tour, if I can believe what I read about them. He had one failure, not a D700, and which he also acknowledges may be the result of not protecting that camera from condensation. My D700, and my D300 and D70s before it, have done well in the cold, despite my not being 100% in bagging the camera on coming in from the cold. I'm getting better at it, and I thank Michael Reichmann for giving me an object lesson in the possible costs of not doing so.
    There is no comprehensive testing here or in Michael's article on the Antarctic failures, but anecdotal experiences do have at least some small validity as we make choices about how we use our equipment.
     
  36. ShunCheung

    ShunCheung Administrator

    Reichmann's 2009 Antarctica article led to a sensational discussion on the Canon EOS Forum here: http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00SNBR Some people just kept focusing on 25% of the 5D II failed without knowing the background.
    We were living in New Jersey when we went to Antarctica for the first time in 1998. The temperature there was only around freezing although the wind chill was quite bad. Now I live in warm California so that I rarely run into really cold weather.
     
  37. Dear all,
    Just got back from the trip. Thanks for all the advice you guys gave me! The camera worked better than I expected - even though it went down to -59 one day.... which was, frankly, more than I'd bargained for :)
    The issues I noticed were:
    - battery life (as expected, about 20 shots per battery, but this can be easily dealt with)
    - viewfinder becomes useless: as you breathe, it gathers condensation and gets misted up very quickly. Solution: breathe away from the camera.
    - lenses: AF becomes erratic and sometimes refuses to work altogether. Again, after a few hours back indoors, this seems to go away.
    - live view: from a full battery, you get 20-30 shots... or one shot if you are using live view
    That seems to be it. Amazingly, the D700 fared better than our big huge Betacam.
    If you want to see the pix, please let me know - I'll e-mail you the link to them on Picasa.
    Thanks again for your help guys!
    Artyom
     
  38. That is -74 degrees Fahrenheit. It seems a wonder that you performed alright, let alone the D700.
    What did you wear? How long could you stay outside? I hope you have all of your bodily parts and appendages well intact.
    Did you keep the spare battery inside your clothing, or was it too cold to gain internal access?
    Thanks for the report. I sent you an email.
    Dave Ralph
     
  39. Dave - it terms of clothing, it's pretty straightforward. The more the merrier. I counted 20 garments on my body at some stage.
    The cold there is very dry, so it's easier to live with the -59 there than with 0 in London. When we were filming in the mountains, we stayed outdoors for a good hour and a half - with no apparent consequences. That day, it was -47.
    Re: spare battery - I left it in the car, next to the heater. You can't _not_ have a car there: you'll die. Ust-Nera (the town where we went) is very small, just 2 thousand people. Even so, everybody drives the whole time, including popping over to see the neighbours two streets away. Oh, and the cold means all cars are fitted with home-made double glazing, and engines are never switched off - unless you are in a heated garage, of course.
     
  40. I know this blog has been out there for a while - so I hope some one answers. With regards to condensation: if after being out in the cold for a while instead of just using a plastic bag, what if a person put the lens and camera "in shooting configuration" into a vacuum bag (similar to the bags used to vacuum seal foods for the freezer) and also put in one or two of the desiccant silicone bags and then pump all of the air out vacuum sealing the bag? Then bring it inside, let it sit for a few hours and then open for storage or further use. I am trying to figure out a better or more fool proof way of protecting our valuable cameras. Looking forward to your comments.
     
  41. What you describe is just a plastic bag, isn't it? So what is gained?
    You'll never pump "all" of the air out of anything, only some of it. And, all of that pumping would have to occur outdoors; more paraphernalia to deal with, yada yada.
    What is to be gained? What is the flaw you discern in what others have found to be an adequate solution?
    I am in the midst of reading Tim Fitzharris' National Audubon Society Guide to Landscape Photography. He recommends keeping a large trash bag in one's vest or bag, and, then, just before going inside, placing one's entire photo vest, backpack or camera bag into the trash bag and sealing it with a twist tie. He notes that the condensation forms inside equipment pieces as well as on the exterior surfaces. Moose Peterson keeps his inside the camera bag when entering a warm environment, or, he says, he places the gear out but with a "white" towel over it, the condensation forming on the towel.
    Pumping just strikes me as unnecessary and burdensomely awkward.
     
  42. Actually one can pump out essentially all of the air. The kit required to do this is not big or cumbersome. I have read and read solutions to alleviate the potential problem of condensation and am not truly satisfied with the 'hope it works' approach. Oh yes, I have friends that do not give going in and out of cold any thought and they have no problems. I did not either until that fateful day my D3 just died. Condensation killed it. I am merely throwing one more possibility out there to see if anyone has tried it or not. If someone wrote back and told me 'tried that and no benefit', so be it. If someone wrote back and said tried and works better than a white towel, camera bag or Glad Bag, we may have stumbled on a solution to keep our prize DSLRs from being ruined by condensation. I figure with the vast audience and experience level found on this blog, someone just might have a better way of dealing with the cold weather versus digital cameras.
     
  43. I personally do not agree with Moose's approaches as there is no truly effective vapor barrier in a fiber camera bag, and certainly notwith a white cotton towel.
    If you do the pumping, perhaps let us know how it goes, perhaps a picture of your rig. I'm to continue with plastic garbage bags for now which have worked for me (at least no failures) for the last few years. One can observe through the clear plastic that there is no overt visible condesation, as opposed to just walking into a warm environment where I have seen condesation appear almost instantly. Bagging the camera inside has some of the horse is already out of the barn aspect to it.
    I'm a little surprised at the D3 failure since it is supposed to be robustly weather sealed.
     
  44. Johnnie Woods: "Actually one can pump out essentially all of the air. The kit required to do this is not big or cumbersome..."
    I'm curious. Do you mean something like this:
    http://www.reynoldspkg.com/reynoldskitchens/handi_vac/en/product.asp?cat_id=1337&prod_id=3918
    If not, do you have a URL of a pump suitable for what you have in mind?
    Thanks,
    Tom M
     
  45. I agree with you David when you say 'surprised' at the D3 failure (at least surprise was part of my shock). Tom the link you provided is the sort of thing I have in mind. My question to the global audience is 'if one carried such a setup, could one could take care of the packing and pumping in the cold and then go inside without fear of condensation?'. I think so. Perhaps I will try this soon. In keeping with my D3 crash, let me say I received the D3 back today, from the Nikon Service Center in New York, and I do believe my D3 is better than when new. Fast, very fast. Such a good feeling to have my D3 back home.
     

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