D600 and reversing rings

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by joseph_mcdonald, Jan 10, 2015.

  1. I started with an FT2 and then I moved up to an F4s, playing around trying to achieve high reproduction ratios. The TTL control of the flash helped a lot. So did the copy stand I scored for small money.
    I now have a D600 and SB-910 and I was wondering if there are any red flags I need to consider, different from using my F4s? I have a BR2a as well as an assortment of rings to couple lenses together, 52mm to 52mm mount, lens extensions etc.
    Any advice from people who have been here before with type of equipment is appreciated.
     
  2. I have used a BR2-A on my D4 with no problems. I did have some big time dust issues shortly after and I wonder if that was the reason.
    Shoot it and see if you like it. live view make focusing much easier
     
  3. "I have a BR2a as well as an assortment of rings to couple lenses together, 52mm to 52mm mount, lens extensions etc."
    Nikon recommended against using the K-1 ring of the K-ring extension set on autofocus bodies. However, some claim no problem.
     
  4. Richard
    I am one of those and have used a K-1 ring on my DSLR's with out any issues. . The OP is asking about the BR2-A and the BR2-A is a reversing ring meant to be used on cameras that are AF as opposed to the old BR2
     
  5. This was shot using my D4 and the BR2-A with a 24 mm f/2.8 AI-S mounted.
    https://flic.kr/p/qgHQCj
     
  6. The K-1 is useful for wide-angle closeups, with non-macro wide-angle lenses that don't focus close enough. No auto coupling is feasible with such short extension. AFAIK it is safe with modern cameras, but it is very tight on lens electric contacts, so I've shaved mine a bit. Some other AI-age (up to now, as they've never been electrified) Nikon extension tubes without "A" may also have issues; you should google up each one separately.
    It is possible to stick a "Dandelion" metering chip to the BR-2A for some sort of auto metering. But mind these chips pretend to be G-type lenses but obviously don't supply the focus distance, which causes certain problems (which do not show up with AF non-D lenses also lacking the distance info). In particular, it confuses TTL-BL flash metering, so plain TTL should be used instead.
     

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