D300 set at ISO L 1.0 for a model shoot - Skipping exposure

<p>Dear Guys,<br>

Yesterday I was doing a model shoot. I set the ISO at 100 ( L 1.0) just tried for the first time. I just took the first shot and it looked very nice. Then I was going on shooting about 60 frames without looking into the LCD. After that when I reviewed the images the horrible thing whcih has happened was this:<br>

1.First frame is fine<br>

2. Tye second frame half exposed 9 Half image visible and half image black)<br>

3. The third frame not exposed . (totally dark)<br>

The I set the ISO to 200 which is Nikon D300 default setting . Then every thing was fine and I shot around 500 framed with no issues. Is it the normal behaviour at ISO 100 for D 300 in a studio setup with mannual Exposure mode. ? I have set the manual Exposure at 1/200 sec at f 16.</p>

<p>Thanks in advance for your expert openion on this issue.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Is it the normal behaviour at ISO 100 for D 300 in a studio setup with mannual Exposure mode. ?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Of course not.</p>

<p>It sounds like you might have some flash sync issue for a while.</p>

<p>Thanks Mr.Shun. Again I will try with the same set up today. If that repeats , I will post some images for your advice. Thanks a lot for your immediate response.</p>

<p>Obviously you have an issue here somewhere, but remember L1.0 will not give you better quality than ISO 200, which is the D300's optimum quality setting.</p>

<p>Mr.Paul</p>

<p>Normally I don't use L1.0 . Just tried yesterday. Hard Luck.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>but remember L1.0 will not give you better quality than ISO 200, which is the D300's optimum quality setting</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>A statement like that needs to be more carefilly evaluated. The definition of "optimum" quality is somewhat subjective and open to much interpretation.</p>

<p>For instance, I will often shoot at ISO 160 w/ the d300/D3 when a great portion of the image is sky. At 160 the sky or ANY smooth surface image looks far better when compared to ISO 200. 160 is the way to go here..unless of course some of us enjoy employing selective NR.</p>

<p>Pete hit on a valid reason to go below "native ISO." According to the Magic Lantern guide, to go below ISO 200 on the D300/D90 results in a loss of dynamic range (I think equivalent to a full stop if going to LO 1). An example they give of a valid reason for doing this is when photographing a brightly lit landscape where a slower shutterspeed/smaller aperture is desired. I don't know if I would want to do this in a studio... </p>

<p>Look at the EXIF data from the problem images and see what the shutter speed was. Also, what were you using to trigger the studio lights and what lights were you using?</p>

<p>I have used the radio trigger and elinchrome strobes 2300. I have deleted all such images , I will try the same during the week end .</p>