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D300 Flash Frustration!!


Leroy_Photography

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<p>I'm ashamed to say this, but I don't know how to use the built-in flash on my D300. I mainly shoot sports (NEVER using the flash), but there are times when I simply want to snap a picture (like children in the house or fans in the stands or on the sideline) and need the pop-up to fill. When I've tried using it, my subject is washed out and a deep shadow appears in back of them. I'm tired of not knowing how to use the built-in flash. Can someone point me to a website that can explain how to set up my camera to successfully use the pop-up flash? Thanks so much.</p>
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<p>No need to be ashamed but, .. you will need to know much more than what Nikon tells you...</p>

<p>E.g. text from the link on FP subject:<br>

"Auto FP High Speed Sync is a flash mode used for fill-flash photography under brightly lit conditions. It will fill in and open up shadowed areas in order to portray the greatest detail in subjects. It's also ideal when using wide aperture lenses, and because it allows fast shutter speeds—up to fastest shutter speeds on compatible Nikon D-SLRs—it is often used for action-stopping sports photography. And for portraits, you can open up your lenses to their full aperture in order to isolate your subject against a blurred background without overexposing the image.<br>

When Auto FP High Speed Sync is selected, the flash will fire for the duration of the shutter curtain's travel, thus syncing with the camera's shutter speed when that speed is set higher than the camera's normal sync speed. "</p>

<p>... The text fails to tell you that you need to have an additional FP CLS flash, since the built-in popup flash is not a FP capable flash. You can try this tutorial for hours and really get frustrated...</p>

 

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<p>Laura, What you describe is the effect of using the pop up flash as the main or unique source of light for the picture. That is probably the worst type of illumination for a picture and should be avoided or used only as a last resort.<br>

What I suggest is to use it as "Fill light" or "Balanced light".<br>

In order for it to work properly, you should set the flash mode to "slow" or "slow+rear", because in the normal mode the lowest shutter speed is ussually set to 1/60", regardless of ambient light. If you get a slow shutter speed you can increase the ISO speed.<br>

Also make sure you are using either Matrix or center weighted metering.<br>

Focus mode and focus point selection could also affect where the camera meters the flash. I suggest you check in the manual where the camera meters the light of the flash and maybe use the "Flash value lock" function.<br>

The other use for that pop up flash is as commander for an external CLS capable flash.</p>

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<p>If you do need to do this ;)...<br>

Get a diffuser, works fine for shorter distances. Not a pingpong ball or emtpy Fuji film canister; it should be larger and further away from the flash. Lumiquest Soft Screen folds flat conveniently. A paper napkin works if you can hold it. And there's "on-camera flash diffuser" that mounts on the lens (not so well on thick ones).<br>

Mind that the default TTL-BL tends to underexpose when doing this, not using full flash power, and that you can only get plain TTL by switching to spot metering. Alternatively you may try using FV lock, or set flash power manually.</p>

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<p>Sem,<br>

Thanks for passing this along because I did not know such diffusers exist. In your experience how well does it work in terms of <br>

toning down the the really harsh shadows the OP was referring to. Do you have a sample shot photo taken with it?</p>

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<p>I'm lazy today ;) I can say it works like charm at closer distance, especially for close-up and macro; some 5 m away it only lights up shadows a bit and softens shadows edges. But this is a simple exercise for anyone with a paper napkin. Then you can try cutting and folding picnic plates or translucent foils for free, and the "commercial" diffusers are so cheap so that DIY may not even be worth the effort.</p>
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