D300 and focus settings for sport photography

Hi All,

 

I just bought a D300 last week (upgraded from my D200) and I'm struggling with the autofocus system. I used it

last night, along with the Nikkor 70-200mm to shot an ultimate frisbee match. I took about 100 pictures and I've

got about 30 keepers out of them... The other 70 are either badly framed (I obviously need to practice) or badly

focused (That's the part I need help with). The main problem seems to be that the camera focuses on the wrong

subject... that's especially true when my main subject is close to the border of the frame.

 

I set autofocus to the 'C' mode, 51 areas 3D and I let the camera pick the most appropriate sensor to use. I

also set the AF-C mode to 'release+focus'. On my D200, I used the 'C' mode but picked myself a group of sensors.

With the D200 I used to get more 1st shot with perfect focus but the following shots where often badly focus.

Now, with the D300, my follow-up shots are better but the first one is often badly focused.

 

I would like to have suggestions and tips on how to configure the camera for that type of shooting (or how to

configure the photographer if he is the problem :P ).

 

I'll try to attach some samples of badly focused shots.

 

Thank's<div></div>

The D300's focusing is one of its best features.

 

As a starting point, I would suggest you start learning how it works by just using the center point with the continuous focus mode. I have successfully used the 9 points cluster but generally stick with the single center point for fast action sports as long as I can track the subject.

 

I personally have not found the 3D focus tracking to be beneficial on the D300.

I shot this with the D300 and 80-400mm lens.<div></div>

I don't like the 3d tracking.

 

I shoot 21 point and have pretty good success with it. I think though it really depends on the sport you shoot. In foortball, I reduce to either 9 point or center point if it's a single subject that i'm focusing on.

 

But i did quite a bit of experimenting with the different settings, as there are many different combinations. The best thing is to try the many combinations, and shoot what's best for you.

 

Good Luck & Cheers

I shot this one with A D300 and Nikon 300mm f2.8 AF-I

I discussed some of that in photo.net's D300 review; you might want to take a look:

http://www.photo.net/equipment/nikon/D300/D300-review

 

The D300, D700 and D3 use an identical AF system. I haven't tested the D700 yet, but I am not too happy with 51-point 3D AF on either the D3 or D300, where the metering system that is color sensitive is involved in AF. If your subject has a distinct color against the background, the AF system can track the subject for a little while but will soon lose it. Instead, typically I use 21 point but you might want to experiment with 9 and see whether that is faster for you.

 

Also experiment around with Custom Setting a4. I have a number of images of surfers with the AF messed up because a bird suddenly enters the picture out of nowhere.

I have settled on the 21 point mode too (I shoot road cycling and running competitions). The 3D tracking mode - well, I don't get it either.

also, i find placing the AF area-mode selector in the center position, dynamic-area AF, works best in conjunction with 21 focus points.

I also moved from a D70 to a D300 and definitely recommend you read Shun's referenced post. Keep in mind that you

can still take advantage of all 51 points. I think of it as selecting a focus point cluster size. You pick the

primary point out of 51 but the camera can over-rule you within the surrounding 9 or 21 points. The less points

it has to choose from obviously the faster it can

decide which to use and how to adjust the focus. Thus for high speed sports 9 can be the better setting. As he

says, a4 can also be

very handy in telling the camera to ignore some of the surrounding movement for a period of time. I would bet

that ultimate frisbee shots will benefit from fiddling with this setting.

 

Shooting soccer I have generally settled on 21 point. I usually take a few shots and check the results and will

switch to 9 point if I need more fine grained control.

 

For mountain biking I use 9 point because the bikes are moving fast enough that it just seems to keep up better.

 

Once you get the hang of it you will love it. Just experiment a little on a day where you don't care about the

results and then it will become second nature. Also, putting the needed entries from the Custom Settings Menu

into the My Menu will make it a lot easier to change these on the fly.

 

And I too have not been terribly impressed by the 3D tracking feature. I am sure it works in some settings but so

far has not done so not for me.

By using a specific shooting menu bank combined with a custom setting bank that's geared towards action photos,

you can establish and save ideal control settings for the sports you shoot. It's much, much easier to do this way

since the D300 has a pretty complicated set of menus.

 

For example, I have been using the AF-ON button programed to focus the camera instead of the shutter release.

This is done with Custom Setting a1 set on Release; Custom Setting A5 set to AF-ON Only and the front camera

switch set to C. The Mode Dial on top of the camera is also set to either Cl or Ch. I have the Dynamic AF area

(Custom Setting a3) to 21 points. The focus tracking with lock-on (a4) is generally set to short. I have the

number of AF- points (a8) to 11 for faster focusing speed. Finally, the Autofocus Area Mode (3- way switch just

right of the LCD) is generally set to Dynamic Area Focus. If the primary sensor dances around too much while

you're trying to shoot then lock it via the direction pad lever. If this seems complicated, then it underscores

the benefit of creating a custom bank for action photography.

 

The big thing with this configuration is realizing that you cannot focus by depressing the shutter release-

nothing will happen. You've got to press the AF-ON button exclusively to focus. But it lets you compose

or re-frame on the action yet keep the focus. It may prove awkward at first (it was for me). But it does work very

well with action shooting. Give it a try and see how it works for you. If it's not your cup of tea, simply re-set

the shooting menu for that bank. Thom Hogan's D300 Guide provides a lot of detailed explanation on this AF

system and

illustrates the benefits of this particular configuration. I find it very useful. While not cheap, it is an

excellent resource on using this camera.

Here's a sample.

Sorry, here's the image<div></div>

The most challeging for AF is to keep track the subject that is moving directly to you or away from you. (not side by side movement).

 

When I use AF-S mode...I never get a locked-on with my D300, thus the camera was never able to fire. I tried it over and over again but never work. I was simply trying to shoot people walking toward me. A relatively low speed action.

 

When I use AF-C mode, the camera fired, but never get tack sharp images.

 

Imagine if you are trying to shoot something that is really fast moving toward you or away from you. D300 is not fast enough for this kinda situation.

As the D3 and D300 use the same AF module I suppose the settings I use might be of some help

 

I've shot a lot of surf lately and coming from a D1H/D2X I started with the settings used on those camera's and adjusting

them to the options availible on the D3. The lens I use is usually a 200-400 VR with a 1.4 TC, occasionally a 2/200VR (with or without 1.4

TC) or a 2.8/80-200 AF D

 

My AF basis settings for sports are AF-C, no lock-on, Dynamic AF with 51 AF points, 21 AF points activated with the

central AF point as starting point (although when shooting actions where I know the movement will start on a specific side, I start with the

AF point on that side, thus making better use of the full image afterwards when cropping in the digital darkroom).

 

From my F100 days I learned the hard way never to let the camera decide to select what to start focussing on, both for accuracy and

speed. Other settings are auto WB, manual exposure with auto ISO and matrix metering.

 

When I take a picture I aim the central point on the action and start taking pictures ( I shoot in Ch mode at 9 fps), letting

the AF traction take care of the AF when the action leaves the central AF point. I don't shoot till I empty the buffer, but

shoot short bursts (usually four of five shots, although I will be sending my camera in for the buffer upgrade shortly),

recomposing and refocussing between bursts, and crop afterwards

 

HTH

 

Paul

 

http://www.pbase.com/paul_k