CPL filter via graduated ND..

Discussion in 'Beginner Questions' started by joka_gzir, Aug 29, 2010.

  1. I Use CPL BW from time to time.. on shine day with my 16-35mm F/ 2.8 II + 7D ( sometime I have impresive results )
    A few days ago I begin to read about Singh Ray Galen "massive" industry of zillion other equal and not equal expensive products/filter , should I say... I tryed shut sunset and it's look like protuberants on the sun , coctail made from carrots- nothing ,....-exept fierry/orange blast..in foggy yellow substance
    The confusion came with ND graduated filters ( 3 different graduated ND filters with likelly on the darkest side with 2 3-4-8 ets stops ?! Orange ,blue ,grey, Tabaco colour all graduated.. suggested as - MUST HAVE ..funny I understand .You can also buy a dissent car if you will not buy all of this suggested filter )
    And JUST ND filters without graduation just worming likelly filters. Also 2-3-4-8-9 stops..
    .Where I should moove with all this desirable filters to create close to normal beautifull sunsets I can see here, at this site, -- absolutelly impressive photous... ????
    Thanks a lot I can see a lot of "like me dessized with perfection to shut the best "
  2. Polarizing filters have their uses, but shooting sunsets is not one of them. Their maximum effectivness is when shooting at 90 degrees from the direction of the sun, minimum when shooting toward/directly away from the sun.
    As for ND filters, since you're at the start of the learning curve, start with the neutral gray graduated filters. I think you'll find that they'll give you what you want in most circumstances. From there, you can decide whether you want to go to some of the toned filters, like "tobacco" for special effects. I have two ND grays, 1.2 - 4 and 1.2 - 8. By the way, those numbers are not stops, they are filter factors, indicating the amount of reduction of light at the film/sensor plane. A filter factor of 2 would be a light reduction of 1/2, corresponding to one stop; 4 corresponds to two stops, 8 to three stops, etc.
  3. The "carrots", or star burst effect, occurs when you use a small f/stop. You don't need a filter to shoot sunsets unless you want the forground to be something other than a silouhette. Then use a graduated neutral density filter to decrease the exposure of the sky.
  4. Joka,
    (1) Graduated ND filters require PRACTICE. They are NOT EASY to use.
    (2) DO NOT USE colors (tobacco, blue, sunset, etc.). Only use Neutral Density filters.
    (3) Hard-edge or soft-edge? For sunsets use Hard Edge filters. The filter must be DARKEST at the horizon line. 2 or 3 stops is best.
    (NOTE) If your camera does not have Depth Of Field Preview or Live View, you cannot use these filters accurately.
    Good luck.
  5. I would think that shooting digitally you might be able to do without filters designed just for changing colors. Some much prefer trying to 'get it right in-camera' but I would also be inclined to work on compositing multiple expsosures (or HDR) during post-processing rather than messing with graduated filters. Other than polarizing effects the other obvious reason to dive into ND filters would be to deliberately slow the exposure for motion effects e.g. moving water, traffic, pedestrians, etc.
  6. It's great to be able to catch everything in a single exposure. I don't generally like the look of HDR, and often when I try to
    make a composite like an HDR or a panoramic photo, movement in the frames drives the computer crazy and the result
    fails to meet expectations. Graduated ND filters don't work in all cases, but when they do they save a heck of a lot of post
    processing time. I have had great success with them.
  7. Thank you gentlemen ! I'm very happy with answers..
  8. Thank you gentlemen !
    Other subject puped up.. - There are chines on the market ( as third party on sail /cheaper graduated an ND 2,4,8 eBay and local electronic stores) filters made , then original Galen Rowell SinghRay Graduated Neutral Density filters.
    Chines made third party is about $15 .00 and Original $99.00/each + shipping .
    Q : Is there obvious difference in quality and practical performans on field ? If, for example I'll buy chines made one's and see how and where I'm going with that performens , before I hit/buy the real GSR ND ets filters ( or it's not worce it and it's practically the same and prestige only status ?
    best regards
  9. Cheap filters are not as good. They might add unwanted colors to photos.
  10. Hi Joka - I have one golden rule for all this - always buy the best glass you can afford - be it a lens or a filter. Another tip if you are on 35 mm - buy 77 mm circular Pro filter sizes only and use step down rings to attach them to lenses with smaller filter sizes and buy Lee or Cokin holders for "P" size for square or oblong ones - again use step down rings to attach the to the smaller lenses. As for ND filters - you need to experiment - remember you can stack them if needed. I have a B&W +6 Graduated ND I have in the past placed a Singh Ray variable neutral density on top to give an upper factor of about +12.
  11. uhhhhhhh....................
    get a CPL and ND, that's all you need. Anything else can be done in photoshop. A grad ND can be handy if you want one, but again it can be done in post. HDR can produce a similar if not better effect.

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