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Contact printing 5x7 on 11x14


francesco_palombi

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<p>Hi,</p>

<p>I'm reading a lot on the web about contact printing, but I couldn't find a valid answer. <br>

I would like to contact print 5x7 negatives on 11x14 sheets leaving the white around the photograph. </p>

<p>What is really the best technique ever to do that?<br>

Do I have to build a frame?<br>

Thanks,</p>

<p>Francesco</p>

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<p>If you want a <strong>white</strong> border, you will have to make something to block out the light. The cheapest way would probably to be to cut a piece of mat board with a frame the size of the negative. Even a custom cut mat (which you will have to do, as the size of the negative is ever so slightly smaller than 5x7) from a framing store should be maybe $25. If a black border is acceptable, then all you need is a piece of glass to hold the negative flat.</p>
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<p>You do not have to build a frame, but they do make life easier. </p>

<p>To do what you describe, buy ruby lith or a masking sheets (sold at art supply shops) in 11x14. Cut a window in the lith or sheet the size of your negative and place the negative in the sheet. If the window is slightly smaller than the negative, you can tape the negative in place on the boarder area of the negative and the tape will not show up in the print. Place the negative and sheet in contact with the paper and cover with a sheet of glass. You can use cheap window glass. The glass will provide enough pressure to keep the negative pressed against the paper. If you use a large piece of glass, you can always put small weights in the corners to provide more pressure if needed. </p>

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<p>Rubylith masking film, with a heavy sheet of glass on top, is really the most effective way to achieve your desired result. Rubylith is a very thin material, so the glass on top of the negative will still be able to maintain sufficient contact pressure between the negative and the printing paper underneath to achieve excellent print sharpness. It will also yield very clean, sharp edges around your image area. While pretty and nostalgic, traditional wooden hinged contact printing frames were designed for the periodic inspection of images as they slowly formed on printout-type papers, to maintain proper registration whenever one inspected the image; they're not necessary for contact printing using projection speed papers. </p>
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  • 3 weeks later...
<p>Spray paint an 11x14 sheet of glass black. Drop a card on the glass before you spray, in exactly the right position to make a clear window to print through. A tape hinge on the top edge (glass hinged to a backing board of cardboard) will let you position the glass consistently on the paper. A cardboard template will let you position the negative easily and quickly. Remove the template, of course, before you expose. You want that negative equally sharp edge to edge in the final print. -- not so easy to do with blades, etc.</p>
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