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Compact binoculars


jt

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I know this is kind of off-topic so I'll understand if it's deleted or

given a short life, but it's also kind of on-topic so I'll ask anyway:

 

Which compact (small, lightweight) binoculars do you recommend for

carrying when out hiking? I'm thinking 8x20 size, but possibly 10x25

if I can be persuaded of the advantage.

 

More specifically, I'm thinking Zeiss/Leica/Swarovski quality/prices,

and I'm wondering what impressions people have (or have heard or read

or seen) of them.

 

I could stick a paragraph of prose in here about how using binoculars

relates to nature photography, but I think the connection should be

reasonably clear. As I said before, I know this isn't primarily a

photographic question, and I hope it's not seen as clutter on the forum.

 

Thanks for any help you can give me.

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More questions back at you: You understand the relationships and meanings of the binocular numbers? You have decided what objects and their sizes and "habits" you are most interested in? Coated optics & nitrogen filled etc? Generally you get what you pay for, but I've seen and used very good binocs for less than Leica! Minox is a favorite - owned by Leica. Birding binocs may take you down paths of different choices. Very small & compact sacrifices light gathering ability etc. but having a unit is better than none. I prefer lower power, bigger objective lens / more light. I also own & use a Zeiss 8x20 monocular and take it everywhere. Somewhat clumsy to use, too much power in the woods, but great great in open spaces; very small & light also cheap. I have used Leica compacts, fine gear. But for slow, leisurely viewing & for birds, my bigger (early vintage) 8x42 Pentax std size is tough to beat. I also will take a compromise binoc hunting; Steiner 6x30. Very good in dim light, armored, coated optics,and individual eye focus. IMHO: binocs are very personal choices and my eyes and wishes are different than yours. You deserve to shop them and try them. Eagle Optics in Madison Wis. is a gonzo place to do so. Great web site and they know their stuff! BTW: It's amazing how quickly one can lose small objects on the trail. I use the straps religiously. My walking stick has a tripod head for camera or scope. FWIW: good boots and compass are worth more than the binocs in my preferences.
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Jeff,

 

Thanks for replying. I do understand the numbers on binoculars. 8x20 or 10x25 will be sufficient for my needs (I'm not seriously into birdwatching - I just often find I want a better view of - well - whatever. Scenery *or* animals). Anything bigger than 25mm objectives and I honestly don't think I'd end up carrying them. I'd rather lose out on the low-light abilities but actually have the binoculars with me. They'll be squeezed into the corner of my camera bag instead of the cheap £20 ones that are there at the moment.

 

Those three all have fully multicoated optics. The Leicas aren't nitrogen filled so I was wondering if that's seen as a real-life disadvantage.

 

(btw, I have good boots and compass:)

 

I've played with the Leica and Zeiss 8x20 models but not found the Swarovskis in any shops yet. They seemed pretty close on first impressions but I wasn't able to test them extensively... that's why I was wondering what experiences other people have had.

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I second the idea of Eagle Optics mentioned by Mr. Drew. I have the Ranger 8x32 Platinum Class. It is a great binocular for my use, with very good light-gathering qualities and close-focusing(3 ft.), yet not so bulky that it can't be stowed handily. And the folks there are really friendly to deal with. Good luck. Joe
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I have a pair of the Leica 8x20 from the mid 1990's and other larger binoculars. While the Leica optics are excellent, their 8x20 and 10x25 are designed with two hinges, one for each tube, such that they can be folded up to a smaller size. However, with two hinges, it becomes much harder to adjust the distance between the two tubes to fit my eyes. Larger Leica binoculars with only one hinge don't have this problem.

 

If you are not a birder and don't need top-quality at low-light conditions, a pair of 8x20 should be fine. I would make sure that the two-hindge design works for you though should you be getting something with that kind of design.

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Jonathan, the best "belt for the buck" I found (and Consumer Reports some years ago agreed with me) was the Nikon Venturer II. I have had it in both the 8X and the 10X25 versions. Very light, compact (some shirt pockets accommodate it) and sharp. I definitely preferred the 8X for sharpness. My understanding is that the subsequent Venturer models were not quite as sharp as the V II. If you can find one of these still kicking around the shelves of one of the big NYC camera houses, it should still go for around 80 bucks (one of the best investments I ever made).
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"Nitrogen filled" is not mandatory, but it does prevent fogging and crap from forming inside the tubes. As I have guided hunting & fishing trips, the ruggedness of a good hunting binocular in crummy weather was welcome. Considering your above comments, the 8x20 choice would be easier for me to hold steady and probably give a wider FOV. Dittos on the above Leica comments. Mine are really old and are not a bargain considering today's technology. Some of the Asian made models of compact binoculars are as good - the Japanese take their quality optics very seriously in binoculars. I only mention this to widen the choices. OTOH: you won't go "wrong" with what you have already looked at. Again, these decisions can get to be a personal choice as evidenced by all the selections available - way more than 30 years ago!
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Hi Jonathan,

 

I often carried small binoculars around with me, but as my left eye is slightly different to my right {due to years of pearing through my camera viewfinder probably}, i used to find that the focus correction ring on one barrel of the binoculars would often move from its setting while being carried in my pocket or bag. This was often a real pain if i needed to quickly focus on a bird etc. I ended up replacing the binoculars for a monocular. I find this much quicker and takes up about the same amount of room as a roll of 120 film. My particular one is an 8x21, and it has a similar angle of view to a 300mm lens, which is also a consideration if you are primarily a photographer.

 

You cant beat a good pair of binoculars, but depending on your purpose, it might be just the thing.

 

all the best

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I have Leica 10x25, just a few years old, and Zeiss Dialyt 8x30B bought about 1980. One reply referred to old design optics on the Leica.

 

My experience is that the Zeiss from 1980 has low contrast with flare although they are still in top condition. But they are easier to use tham the compact Leica.

 

 

The Leica 10x25 are tiny, pocketable, very clear, sharp. Centring the eyes can be fiddly, especially with glasses.

 

When I want to see a bird in the garden I usually pick up the Zeiss. Going out I always choose the Leica.

 

If your eyes, like mine are less than perfect, binocular vision gives you a synthesis from both eyes which results in better image than monocular.

 

BTW People sometimes go on about size of exit pupil and say "get 7x50 to get the full 7mm and brightest image". Well of course it only helps when your own eye is fully opened in poor light.

 

It's usually the case that one's pupil doesn't open beyond 4mm - 5mm as you reach middle age so, if your getting there, don't bother too much about exit pupils larger than from 8x30. Save the weight and bulk!

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One thing to keep in mind about binoculars if you wear glasses is eye relief. You should have as close to 20mm of eye relief as you can, unless you will take off your glasses to use the binoculars. If you have bad astigmatism like me, that won't work. If I'm not mistaken, none of the Leicas, Zeiss's or Swarovskis have eye relief greater than 10mm. But check it out for yourself. That was a big mistake I made with my first good pair of binocs.
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A large exit pupil is desirable even if it is larger than the maximum size of the viewer's iris. When looking near the periphery of the field, the cornea moves off center and away from the exit pupil. The image in a small exit pupil then becomes dark only to return when the eye recenters, or the binocs are moved laterally to compensate. This is important in selecting wide field binoculars. Even my 10X42 Nikons black out when I least want them to do so. I used to use the Travelites as they were the most compact. Unfortunately they were stolen in a foreign country.
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Larry

 

Zeiss as far as I know, invented the high eyepoint with their "B" glasses and my Leica is just as good.

 

Believe me it is the first thing I would check. My glasses prescription is so strong I can run out of bino focus adjustment if I take them off. About -17 diopter for my right eye, about -12 or 13 in my left! Astigmatism and retinal blind spots.

 

Actually I get by alright .....

 

Alex, I suppose that's so, although high eyepoint binos don't have such wide fields. Maybe the small exit pupil is why eye placement is fiddly with my 10x25s. Wide field lenses for telescopes can be tricky and your eye can be too close - inside the eyepoint - causing kidney shaped black outs (strictly in the viewing sense...).

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Nikon used to make a small smized 9x30 with fluorite glass but it was discontinued. Look around for it, they are very good optically and small sized, not as small as "mini's" but much better. I used them for years with no complaints until getting a Zeiss 10x40 pair used.
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