color film in d76

Discussion in 'Black and White' started by markok765, Apr 30, 2006.

  1. Hello,
    I have just aqquired a large amount of kodak gold 400 that expired a
    month ago. anyways, id rather not spend the money for a color film
    development. so, i have d76 and rodinal here and what are dev times.
    i would rather not waste film testing. also do you have any tips?
    i once heard for kodak gold 200 rate as 100 and develope at tri-x.
  2. a friend of mine tried this once, color film in b&w developer, and the results are not good. I'd take it to Wal-Mart and let them develop the film normally for under $2 and then scan it myself.
  3. Expose it about 250 and develop it in Diafine -- I just did this Friday for a test roll.

    However, it will be difficult to scan, due to the orange contrast mask, err, "base fog"

    ...But it WILL work.
  4. I did this with a bunch of Fuji Super G 100 I had bought for my wife before she went digital. Set the ASA to half the rated value on the can. You will get somewhat grainy, compressed tonal rage negative. Scans fine, have not tried analog printing.
  5. Daniel,

    That picture has a rather surreal effect. I think I will play around with a couple of expired color rolls next time I stop into the camera store. What were your development/stop/fix times? What chemistry did you use?
  6. I tried this yesterday, obtaining a surprisingly good result.

    Kodacolor 200 in D76 1:1 at 20 degrees Celsius for 12 minutes, fixed in almost exhausted Agefix.

    I don't know if it's the fixer or some colour-process magic that I'm missing, but the base colour on my test roll is much darker orange than on C41 lab-processed film. Actually, mine is more like brown.

    Is it possible to remove this base colour chemically or mechanically?
  7. John,

    The film was rated at half the ASA, so one stop overexposed. I did a presoak to try to get off any antihalation layer. The times and temp were that of Tri-X. Developed in D-76 stock with water bath as stop and fixed with rapid fix for about 5 min. The strip looked a little milky out of the fixer, but cleared when drying. Might be due to the couplers still left in the emulsion. You still have the orange base, but the film scans OK.

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