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[Choosing]Canon lens for artwork photos


adam_donovan1

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<p>Hello,<br>

I'm new to photo world and would appreciate all help from advanced users!<br>

I need a good lens for photos of my artwork (to show off stuff like business card, brochures, paper texture ). I already own kit 18-55 and 50 mm prime.<br>

I was thinking about buying Canon 60 mm Macro lens. Will it be good for photos like those ?<br /> <a href="http://www.newco81-design.com/images/slides/logo-cairn.jpg" target="_blank">http://www.newco81-design.com/images...logo-cairn.jpg</a><br /> and<br /> <a href="http://piggrab.com/wp-content/uploads/Black-And-White-Business-Card-Design-In-Simple-Form-9.jpg" target="_blank">http://piggrab.com/wp-content/upload...ple-Form-9.jpg</a><br /> or<br /> <a href="http://www.behance.net/gallery/ALUaCompany-Book/2756837" target="_blank">ALU</a><br /> (especially pictures <br /> <a href="http://behance.vo.llnwd.net/profiles5/105277/projects/2756837/bf965df996d32b6eaa86ca1fc02ded83.jpg" target="_blank">http://behance.vo.llnwd.net/profiles...1fc02ded83.jpg</a><br /> <a href="http://behance.vo.llnwd.net/profiles5/105277/projects/2756837/7a48cdd6e2305633b8b700495e023cb7.jpg" target="_blank">http://behance.vo.llnwd.net/profiles...495e023cb7.jpg</a><br /> <a href="http://behance.vo.llnwd.net/profiles5/105277/projects/2756837/862ae810d452e6bd775a55d06e20239d.jpg" target="_blank">http://behance.vo.llnwd.net/profiles...d06e20239d.jpg</a><br /> )<br>

I've seen some amazing stuff on pixelpeeper made with Canon 60 mm Macro but that were mainly close-ups and sometimes i need something that can take nice photo of brouche or printed CI elements.<br>

Other idea might be Canon 70-200 f4L but I really don't know what would be better for stuff I mentioned above.</p>

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<p>For the kind of samples you posted the 60mm macro is the perfect choice. Work from a tripod and play around with lighting and angles to bring out the textures/materials. A geared tripod head and a focusing rail might be helpful additions as they allow you to move the camera very precisely to get the framing right.</p>

<p>I wouldn't consider the 70-200 zoom for that kind of work.</p>

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<p>The best Canon setup for copying artwork (I do quite a bit of this since my wife is a painter) is the 5DII with the 50/2.5. This is a task for which the longer working distance of a 100mm macro on FF (or 60mm on 1.6-factor) is actually unhelpful, unless you are down to postage-stamp sizes. Since you are thinking of the 60mm (which I have - it is an excellent lens) I assume you have a 1.6-factor body, and in that case the 60mm is indeed your best choice. This is not a task for which zoom lenses are well-suited. In addition to across-the-frame sharpness and flatness of field (neither of which can be fixed in post-processong), it is helpful to have to make minimal use of post-processing aberration correction, so negligible distortion and good freedom from vignetting are important.</p>
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<p>The 60mm macro is nice for the ultra close ups but you can do a lot with the 50mm lens (I'm assuming you are using an APS-C camera). Add an relatively inexpensive screw in close-up filter and you'll be surprised what you can do. Just use wider apertures to limit the depth of focus. For the more overall shots the 50mm or the long end of the zoom, stopped down, will work fine. If the elements you want to photograph are<em> really</em> tiny, and you have a lot of them to do, then perhaps the cost of dedicated macro lens might be worth it. I use my EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro all the time. The 80-200 f/4L, with an extension tube or closeup filter would work too. Lots of ways to get there so your budget and frequency of use is a key consideration. I would try the close up filter first. It's cheap and may be all you need.</p>
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<p>If you do a lot of this work, buy a good studio flash set.<br>

<a href="http://www.cameratools.nl/flitsers/studioflitsers/elinchrom-d-lite-it-200-400ws-studio-kit/">http://www.cameratools.nl/flitsers/studioflitsers/elinchrom-d-lite-it-200-400ws-studio-kit/</a><br>

Somtning like this. And a table to work on.<br>

A heavy trypod is also needed. Try ebay for an older (metal) Gitzo.<br>

A hood for the lens is good. Filters are not needed for this type of work.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Adam,<br>

You already have most of what you need. A cheap screw in closeup lens is a good idea. a tripod and table that you can dedicate to the task at hand for several hours at a time is another. You do not need dedicated studio flash units. you can do pretty much any kind of lighting you might need with a few lamps you probably have around the house already and possibly an open window. you can adjust the locations and angles of the light and change the color temperature to suit you either in the camera or in post processing.<br>

The thing you need most is to take a lot of pictures. Getting the desired outcome is about 1% buying the perfect lens or light or anything else, and about 99% of take the shot, process it look at it figure out what you don't like, go back and take another shot changing something to fix what you didn't like the first time repeat until you can get the shot in one or two tries. After a few hundred tries when you really know what aspect of the setup is doing what to the image then think about whether or not you need to buy something you don't already have. Just remember that when experimenting change only one variable at a time. Shoot, process, check, change focus, shoot, process, check, change object to camera distance, shoot, process, check, move camera left or right, shoot, process, check, move light, ...iso...aperture...light positions...subject position... camera height...white balance...crop...<br>

You can not buy a magic lens or filter or light or gadget that will make knowing what all of these things do to your final image moot. You need to shoot shoot shoot.</p>

 

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The 60mm macro is a very good lens.

Given that you will be in a controlled

environment, I can't see a reason for a

filter. A hood might be helpful to avoid

flare if you end up using lighting from

the sides. For that reason, I often leave

one on my 60 when doing flower

macros, just to be safe.

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<p>If you want high quality images, (specifically re read the last of Robin’s post beginning: <em>“In addition to across-the-frame sharpness . . .”</em>) then <strong>I encourage you to stick with your choice of the EF-S60/2.8</strong> (and not use Close-Up Filters on your existing lenses).</p>

<p>In a controlled environment, a filter (for the 60/2.8) is not necessary, but a lens hood might be useful depending upon the lighting you are using.<br>

I suggest buying the lens hood anyway, as I expect that the 60/2.8 will be used for other purposes, for example outside, in daylight as a portrait lens.</p>

<p>WW<br>

Addendum / Aside:<br>

<strong><em>If you want to experiment "on the cheap"</em></strong>: then a better purchase than (the best) Close-Up lens would be a set of three Kenko Extension Tubes: you will require the Version 2 of the "DG" Series if you want full compatibility with all your existing lenses.<br>

I expect the Kenko Tubes will be about the same price as a good C/U Fillter.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p><strong><em>If you want to experiment "on the cheap"</em></strong>: then a better purchase than (the best) Close-Up lens would be a set of three Kenko Extension Tubes:</p>

</blockquote>

<p>This is really not true and a common myth. Whenever a standard 50mm lens is moved away from the sensor plane all the aberrations present in the lens are also magnified reducing performance particularly off axis. When a high quality close up lens is used, all the corrections designed into the lens are retained. Additionally there is light loss as the lens is moved forward any distance in keeping with the inverse square law. This effect does not apply when using a diopter lens.</p>

<p>The image samples the op showed of effects he wanted to achieve, showed the photography of artwork elements shot close up at an angle and some overall groupings. The real advantage of a dedicated macro lenses is not just it's easy close focusing ability but it's flat field design. It is optimized for shooting flat two-dimensional objects, such as in a document copy situation, so center and edge resolution are linear across the field. There is nothing wrong with the 60mm macro lens but in <em>this</em> application it's a $400 solution to a problem that can be solved far less expensively. </p>

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<p>No.<br />The comment was not sprouting a myth.<br />And this is not about TRUTH.<br />It is an educated opinion applicable to the OP’s specific question and based upon in field use of the EF50/1.4 both the Canon 250D and also a set of Kenko Tubes.</p>

<p>The 250D is a good quality double element Close Up lens, it cost (me) about AU$145.00.<br />The set of three DG Tubes cost me about $AU159.00.<br />Prices might vary a bit around the world.</p>

<p>Excluding the OP’s kit lens that leaves us with the 50mm maybe the F/1.8 maybe the F/1.4, whatever - the 250D will allow a magnification of about 0.20~0.35.<br />With a set of three tubes the magnification variables are far, FAR wider and with flash and using the lens at F/8~F/11 in both cases, there is not that much difference in end quality of the images.</p>

<p>Hence the conclusion and the opinion:</p>

<p><em>“</em><em>If you want to </em><em><strong>experiment</strong></em><em> "on the cheap"</em><em>: . . . </em><em></em><br /><em>tubes are a better option as they provide much broader compass for experimentation for about the same price as a good quality C/U Filter – </em><br /><em></em><br /><em>Which is exactly what was written - applicable to the OP's situation. . . </em><em>IF the OP wants to "experiement" (key word).</em></p>

<p>WW</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>a better purchase than the best close-up lens would be a set of three Kenko Extension Tubes<br>

<em>tubes are a better option as they provide a much broader compass</em><br>

<em><em>Which is <strong>exactly</strong> what was written</em><br /></em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>William, thank you for elaborating and clarifying what you <em>intended</em> to write. My response was based on what you <em>actually</em> wrote which, though not intended, sounded like the very common misunderstanding between the output quality between the two. Extension tubes are not "better" but they are, as you have since explained, more flexible but at a considerable higher cost.</p>

<p>A Canon 250D closeup filter from B&H, when in stock, is about $85, a Kenko DG auto tube set is $179. A Canon EF-S 60 mm f/2.8 lens and hood is over $400.</p>

<p>Your reply also supports my assertion that there is are multiple less expensive solutions to achieve the OP's desired effect than the the purchase of an expensive lens. Expensive is open to interpretation, of course, and the OP has already declared the way he is going.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Thanks a lot for all responses! I can learn from them a lot. For a time being i'm gonna stick with macro lens ( as I don't feel confident enough to experiment :) ). <br />In Poland where I stay 60mm is about460$ and 100mm ( both Canon Macro ) is 527$. For me it's no difference. Do you think it would be wise idea to buy 100 mm instead of 60 ? I've read tests, i know you can stand further from the object to take a photo with 100, and 60 might be slightly sharper but there is more vignette. And ofcourse 100 is FF compatible... but I haven't found an answer which lens would be better for my needs ( posted in first post of this topic ). What i haven't mentioned above is fact i will probably use the macro lens to take some portait photos of my newborn baby too. I know both of these lens can do it fine though. So 60 mm Macro or 100 mm Macro ?</p>
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<blockquote>

<p>i know you can stand further from the object to take a photo with 100 . . . but I haven't found an answer which lens would be better for my needs ( posted in first post of this topic ).</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I think you should consider the largest (macro) subject likely that you will photograph and then work out the WD (working distance) you will need and think about how working at that distance will be accommodated.<br />Both the 100 and 60 are sharp - I think the cumbersomeness (or not) of the WD is one key factor - and that is what (I understood) was one point which Robin made: and also one point which I (implied) when I re-iterated the choice of the 60, previously.<br />I haven't looked at specs in detail, but I would expect the vignette you mentioned re the 60mm is irrelevent at F/5.6 and smaller apertures?</p>

<p> </p>

<blockquote>

<p>What i haven't mentioned above is fact i will probably use the macro lens to take some portait photos of my newborn baby too.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I would usually suggest the 60mm FL on an APS- Camera for that job: however as you already have a 50mm Prime, then, thinking in regard to considering the total kit, the 100mm FL makes more sense as an additional Prime.</p>

<p>***</p>

<p>Louis:<br />Thanks for coming back.<br />Obviously I thought using the word "experiment" explained my meaning.<br />The written word is a difficult medium sometimes, especially when consolidating answers for the briefer responses or comments - and interpretations of the meaning will vary just as much as the prices around the world - as noted there is not much difference in AUS between the two items I mentioned.</p>

<p>And anyway, as I first wrote - it was an aside comment about “experimentation”: I answered the OP first up regarding <strong>the want of high quality</strong> - and suggested he stick to buying a macro lens</p>

<p>WW</p>

<p> </p>

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