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Canon EOS 3 - At the Missouri Botanical Garden


JDMvW

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<p><strong>Canon EOS 3 - At the Missouri Botanical Garden</strong><br /><br />I reported on last August on the Canon EOS 3 camera at http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00WyuM . That was before there was a Modern Film Cameras forum, so I decided yesterday to take it along when going up to the Missouri Botanical Garden in St. Louis to catch the fantastic spring flowers there. <br /><br />All the specs and technical details are at the earlier post. The only things I did differently this time was to shoot Ektar 100 and I ended up using only the EF 35mm f/2 lens which I had not shot extensively since getting it back from a repair of the focus mechanism (only Canon lens failure I've had, about $80 from a Canon-authorized service center). <br /><br />So as not to incur the slings and arrows, etc., here is the camera p o r n .</p><div>00YZ2n-348077584.jpg.7d66e0392e9eda8edcffcb9e16ffab00.jpg</div>
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<p>I still haven't tried the eye control system on this. I was, as I said, really more interested in the performance of the lens than of the camera per se. The combination was very nice. The light and short 35mm showed its stuff. Although it balked at focusing in a few instances where my EOS 5D and a EF 24-105mm IS lens worked without a hitch, overall focus was clear, quick, and precise. The EOS 3 is not a "small form" camera, but it was lighter than the EOS 5D, even allowing for the larger lens on the latter.<br /><br />The film was Ektar 100. In my earlier use of this film on an EOS 5 camera, the film showed its reputed "blue" cast. That was not quite as obvious in these pictures, although as the example below shows, sky-lit areas in shade still can show decidedly blue.</p><div>00YZ2o-348077684.jpg.cf8d08fd2d7e037908210ce7e91ef83a.jpg</div>
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<p>Most of the images showed a similar bluishness. There was also a slight tendency for the film to be something like a half stop overexposed when shooting contrasty scenes. Better control by the user (me, that is) of metering would probably have eliminated that. I'll have to try to remember that the next outing I make with this film, etc. It's easily enough corrected for in Adobe Camera Raw, and even just in Photoshop contrast and color adjustments, of course.</p><div>00YZ2q-348077784.jpg.cb834b2bb3cc97bfa5ff506bdf9e530c.jpg</div>
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<p>The rest of the pictures are just to share my "photographer's joy" on a lovely spring day looking at the tulips. <br /><br />The Missouri Botanical Garden ( http://www.mobot.org/ ), also known as "Shaw's Garden" was founded in 1859. Today it has a series of different gardens within it, ranging from an Italian Formal Garden, an English Woodland Garden, a tropical garden inside the Climatron -- a glass-domed structure designed by Buckmister Fuller (shown top below), as well as a fine Japanese Garden (my personal favorite). <br /><br />Walkways lead through forested areas interspersed with garden areas. Spring flowering trees make every walk a pleasure. Especially on a rare (that is cool) spring day (bottom).</p><div>00YZ2s-348077884.jpg.3c03bd88fa671600046cb066db5c3893.jpg</div>
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<p>I should add that I took this film into my usual processor, but their machine was showing an "error" and the main operator was out, so I took it to my local Walgreen instead. The scans above are completely unretouched -- this particular roll was the cleanest from dust and debris of any roll of film of any type that I have ever scanned. I must have hit a brand-new batch of chemicals or something.</p>

<p>The only time in the whole roll of film that I "spotted" anything was one white blob on the pavement (not in the pictures above), and it may have been simply a piece of wastepaper, not a fleck on the negative. I always scan straight, with all dust reduction or anything like that turned off.</p>

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<p>Nice work. I too took my EOS 3 out for a stroll (last weekend); it's such a joy to use. Not to hijack your thread, but if you'd like to see my results at the Turkey Creek Nature Preserve in Alabama, you can do so <a href="http://www.richterphotoblog.com/2011/04/turkey-creek.html">here</a>. Also, I have long wanted a 35mm f/2, and enjoyed seeing yours get put to good use. JR</p>
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<p>No problemo, all comers welcome.<br>

I got both the 28mm f/2.8 and the 35mm f/2 originally as normal lenses for APS-C cameras, and I was relieved when my daughter, given the choice, took the 28mm lens. It's a great low-light lens, nicer even than the 50mm f/1.8 (which I also cherish as the wonderful gift of Canon to the faithful).The 35mm is not quite the bargain of the other two "gifts" (50mm and 28mm), but it is hardly the most expensive of the old original prime lenses for EOS. One of these days, I'll get the 85mm f/1.8 to round out the set, but I have older MF lenses that sort of serve that need for now.</p>

<p>The failure of my 35mm was when I turned on MF, turned the focus ring, and the thing went "crunch" with virtually no force applied to it. After that it was dead, and off for service.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>I still haven't tried the eye control system on this.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>This is a most useful aspect of the camera. The best way to use it is in conjunction with continuous AF. The idea is to pick the framing with the view finder. Pick the approximate AF point using the ECF. With the shutter button half way down the camera continuously refines focus while you decide when to exactly commit to the shot.</p>

<p>This works wonderfully for impromptu portraiture sessions, especially with kids. It makes more probable catching just the right expression, just the right compositional context. It lets you shoot a lens like the 85mm f1.8 wide open, close up, and with the scene changing fast.</p>

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