Canon A1, thinking of buying, any issues?

<p>Hi, looking to buy a Canon A1. Any problems to look out for? Does the light metering system go out of sync at all, become uncalibrated?<br>

Thanks for your help<br>

Adam</p>

<p>All 30 year old cameras benefit from being tuned up and any you buy now should be serviced before being put into regular use.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks, no particular problems to look out for then?</p>

<p>"A" series cameras often suffer from the "squeal" when the shutter is fired. It's really nothing to worry about. It is an easy fix. I would also recommend a CLA on any old camera that you are going to use on a regular basis. The A1 was my first FD camera and I still enjoy using it. Match it with a FDn 50mm/f1.8 and you have a lightweight outfit that can be carried around all day.</p>

<p>CLA? The camera i'm looking at has had the light seals done and the squeak fixed. was worried in case the light metering becomes uncalibrated really. know any issues the A1 has with that?<br>

Thanks</p>

 

<p>Forgot to say, welcome to photo.net, Adam. No, I haven't heard of any issues with the light meter. It either works or it doesn't. Enjoy using the camera.</p>

<p>I think that more "modern," i.e., electronic, are less prone to meter and shutter inaccuracies than are older, more mechanical bodies like the original F-1. </p>

<p>If the A-series squeal has been fixed in the body you're looking at, it's likely that the shutter was calibrated at the same time. And the meter is probably fine, too. But the only way to know for sure is to have the A-1 checked out once you receive it.</p>

<p>Good luck, Adam! The A-1 is a very fine body.</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Was the Shutter Squeal fixed by a repair technician Camera repair shop or was it a DIY repair?<br>

If it was DIY then I seriously doubt any other service was performed. More and more people are trying to work on their own camera to save money and while there are some simple things that can be addessed this way there are also a number of important things that can not. The shutter and meter calibration for instance.</p>

<p>I've been pretty dedicated to Nikon since the 70's but have also owned many A series Canon as well as EF and FTB. I sold all my Canons years ago, except LTM Canon P which I've had for 15 years. Last fall I bought an original F-1 Canon with 50 and 24 plus Motor Drive Unit. Last week I got another F-1 but the second version called Canon F-1n. I guess I'm back in the Canon court, both terrific pro cameras very capable with high precision and build quality. My recommendation IMHO is forget all models except Canon F-1 original or second version, totally mechanical not dependent on battery save for the meter!</p>

<p>Paul,<br>

I wouldn't discount the F1N 'electronic' version of the F1 series.Though is is packaged with lots of semiconductors it was built to military specifications and has been proven to be as reliable as the original F1's.I own them all and my first pick would still be the latest version mainly because Canon corrected most of my gripes about the original version when they did the redesign.I would bet it still is one of the most troublefree electronic cameras ever produced.Beats the hell out of anything EOS I've ever owned.</p>

<p>Hi Adam. I love my A-1. Just be aware that it <em>only</em> offers center weighted averaging metering unlike the other top line FD pro cameras. However it's a very accurate meter. It's my go to camera for running a lightweight FD rig. Common sense but always carry a spare battery. The camera is dead without it. If you don't get the A or A2 winder or MA motor drive, be sure you get the small finger grip that fits over the battery door. It makes handling much better. Come back and show us your new cam a a few pics from it will ya.</p>

<p>WHAT THE HELL IS THE PROBLEM WITH A CAMERA THAT USES A BATTERY</p>

<p>This has to be one of the silliest things guys bring up when discussing Canon FD.</p>

<p>The A Series and the New F-1 use the little PX-28 Battery that can be found in any drug store pet store or a couple dozen online battery dealers and almost every photo dealer in the world.<br>

The T series uses AA batteries that can be found EVERY WHERE<br>

That said if you find some place where the PX-28 size can't be found they only last about two years with normal use and have longer then that in shelf life. So how hard is it to tape one to your camera strap or put on in the bottom of your bag.<br>

Same with the AA do you avoid electronic flash cause it requires batteries or do you only use magic cubes???</p>

<p>I'm sorry to do this here but it finally got to me</p>

<p>Louis,</p>

<p>Now we know which buttons to push in order to get Mark all fired up! :)</p>

<p>That' great, thank to you all for your help. Lens wise, what should i look out for? Camera i'm looking at has 50mm f1.4 which sounds solid but how are the 35-70mm fd lenses?<br>

Many thanks<br>

Adam</p>

<p>I couldn't agree more with Mark's comments on the battery. Like him, I just tape a spare to the strap and then there's nothing to worry about. You might as well say : "If only my car had a magneto rather than a battery, electronic ignition and a starter motor, then hand cranking it to start would be a small price to pay for not having to worry about the battery".<br>

As far as the 50mm f1.4 goes, it's supposed to be superb. Certainly my f1.8 is very good and the f1.4 is universally agreed to be superior. I did regret buying a 35-70 f3.5 - 4.5 two touch zoom as it's the one Canon lens I really don't like. The optics might be OK, but it does feel very cheap and plasticky compared to all the other Canon lenses. I think there is an earlier model which is much more solid though.</p>

<p>Thanks. Any all round lenses you'd recommend then? Baring in mind i'm on a student budget.</p>

<p>Alan, do a search for "best walkaround lens" and you'll come across a bunch of suggestions. If you're looking for a zoom lens, the best FD zoom is the 80-200 F4 L. I recently bought a very good example on e-bay for $200. Many people also like the Vivitar Series 1 70-210. The Canon 35-105 F3.5 (NOT the 3.5-4.5 which is also 35-105) is also quite well liked. In the prime range, the 85 1.8 is supposedly excellent, I don't own one so can't comment. If you're looking for a macro, the Canon 50mm f3.5 is supposed to be excellent, if you want something with longer reach look out for a Kiron 105mm Macro lens, though be warned they can be relatively expensive.<br>

Have fun with the A1, and like Louis said, please come back and post some pics.</p>

<p>Will do, spotted a 35-105 f3.5 on ebay, recon i'll put in a bid.<br>

Many thanks<br>

Adam</p>

<p>Adam - if you haven't already, check out keh.com. They have a couple of examples in BGN and EX condition. I've bought a bunch of stuff from KEH, never once had a problem with it. Plus, you can return the lens and get your money back, no questions asked. Highly recommended site.</p>

<p>KEH is that in the Uk?</p>

<p>What are the benefits of an F1 against an A1? Worth the bigger price tag?<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>Here you go....<br>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/canon-fd-camera-forum/005NkV">http://www.photo.net/canon-fd-camera-forum/005NkV</a></p>

<p>Thanks, very helpful. Going to go with the A1.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>WHAT THE HELL IS THE PROBLEM WITH A CAMERA THAT USES A BATTERY<br>

tape one to your camera strap or put on in the bottom of your bag.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Mark-I didn't say it was a problem, just common sense to carry a spare. Advice that you echoed in your reply. Similarly, having only a center-weighted, avg meter is not a "problem". Just a couple of operational facts that someone considering this camera might find helpful.<br>

Stuart- To be fair, I have also heard <em>many</em> times over the years posters dissing these cameras largely because of their electronic nature and/ or lack of any default mechanical functionallity. So I understand the foundation of the issues expressed in Mark's reply.</p>

<p> </p>