Canon 5D Mark II Enhance the performance.

<p>Well luckily, I got 5D Mark II sets from my school for 4month renting. It was so lucky. Well I was using 5D Mark III that school has but they approved only 5d Mark II, 70-200mm f/2.8 II, and 24-105mm F/4. I really loved Mark III because of the noise quality, more AF points, AF accuracy, and etc. 5D Mark II is still a good body to use for pro uses such as studio shooting. However, it will be the greatest challenge to handle this inferior performance since I always rented Mark III.</p>

<p>The image quality is just fine. Noise quality is also fine around 5000. But I really hate the AF points and accuracy that reminds my Pentax K-5. Less AF points is really making me mad to shoot. The AF accuracy is really bad that I can not control the depth of field while I'm using 70-200mm lens. I'm a Pentaxian but I really sensitive with the AF accuracy so much. That's why I hate Pentax even now. I massed up my studio shooting when I used Pentax K-3 that I rented before. Anyway, AF accuracy and points are the most hard things to control to get best pics.</p>

<p>So, is there any way to enhance AF performance?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Sure. Use a fast ring-USM lens and AF assist in low light (Speedlite with flash disabled or ST-E2). Or go old skool and stick to the center point and lock-recompose.</p>

<p>Sure, use center AF point only.</p>

<p>IME with the 5D2 (and I've used it professionally both in the studio and in the field extensively) The center AF point is extremely accurate, and even in challenging light, with fast zooms (or even, in most cases, slow ones as well) or primes, I extremely rarely have 'AF accuracy' problems. </p>

<p>As Puppy suggests, using the AF assist on any speedlite will allow it to accurately focus even in pitch black. </p>

<p>With proper use, the AF on the 5D2 is fully capable of capturing IF shots - in most any circumstance except sometimes active sports, and BIF and such. It simply requires learning how to use the tool properly. Luckily, you are in school to (presumably) learn how to be a better photographer. I would use this opportunity to work at developing your skills. Regardless of the tool, there will be circumstances where AF fails consistently (Yes, even w/ the 5D3), in which case you need to be capable of operating the lens to manually focus with accuracy and speed.</p>

 

<p>Using single-point and either moving it or focus and recompose to get exactly what you want in focus. I own the 5D MkIII and the 7D MkII and use them almost all the time with single-point AF. All those points are nice, but if the camera decides to focus where you don't like, you'll either have to steer the AF points (which you can do) or be happy with the wrong thing in focus. Single-point is fast and forces you to think about where focus is. </p>

<p>IQ between the MkII and MkIII is almost the same. Only at high-ISO does the MkIII start to separate itself, but no in a game changing way. </p>

<p>Yes, I almost always use the centre focus point and if needed recompose, as suggested. The depth of field is then a matter of guesswork (aka experience) or, if you have time, the depth of field preview. That is with 5D, 5DII and 6D.</p>

<p>If you think that the Mk-II has inferior AF performance you should try manual focus - or work on your technique. Great shots were taken long before the 5D mk II so I suspect that you're placing far too much emphasis on the gear you're using.</p>

<p>Manual focus doesn't work with these cameras, except with wide angle lenses, outdoors with plenty of light. The viewfinders aren't really designed with MF in mind. Back when MF was the norm, focus screens and viewfinders were quite different. </p>