david_gardner6 Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 <p>I shot some 4x5s over the weekend. Long story, but I thought the holders were loaded with Velvia 50, when some of them were loaded with Velvia 100.<br> What's the best way to go about trying to salvage these shots? Process at 50, since that's what they were exposed for? Process at 100? Split the difference and process in between?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
umesh_bhayaraju Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 <p>you need to develop at 25....means increase processing time by ~ 20% of iso 50. alternatively, you can process at 50 but when printing, increase the time by the same amount as said before.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_norman2 Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 <p>You can separate your film by the notch code. I'd process the V50 normally, if that was your original intent. I'd pull the V100 by something like 15%, since you want to err on the side of less, rather than more, contrast. The V100 was effectively overexposed by one stop. You could take one sheet of the V100, process it at the shorter time as a test, and then adjust your time for the rest of the V100.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allen_whittier Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 <p>Most of what I photograph is changing fast and I don't get a second chance if processing damages the film. When I make a mistake like this I shoot some 35mm or 120 with similar lighting conditions and the same exposure error. This gives me test film for experimentation.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_littleboy__tokyo__ja Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 <p>In addition to what other people have said, the data sheet for Velvia 100 claims that you should see no color shifts with a push of 1/2 stop or a pull of 1 stop, so you should be OK.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_gardner6 Posted April 6, 2010 Author Share Posted April 6, 2010 <p>Thanks for all the feedback. At this point I'll a) process the 50 regularly (what I had planned in any event), then b) try a sheet of the 100 at about +15%, then use that to c) gauge how to handle the rest of the 100.<br> Allen-<br> Normally, so would I. Most of the time I'll have all my equipment in my car and easily accessible, but Sunday I had every in a backpack and I was hiking for about 5 miles, so I was trying to minimize what I was carrying.<br> David-<br> Good to know, thanks.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan_j._eberle1 Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 <p>"Pulling" Fujichrome works well at 1 stop overexposure. There are few reason to do so, ordinarily, and that's why you don't hear so very much about it. You are processing your own E6, right? If not, I sure wouldn't send it anywhere but a pro lab where you can talk directly to the tech about it. Whatever you do, don't let some clerk at the counter put a simple "+1" on the envelope (a more common but confusing term for a 1 stop PUSH), and if you haven't talk also to the guy/gal who'll be processing it, I'd triple underline/bold Sharpie/Orange Highlighter the words "Pull --NOT Push-- One Stop!"</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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