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Can a rectanguler shoot square?


tom_norman

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I know this is a stupid question but...

I have a Pentax 67 which I just recently purchased in the past few

months and love. However, I really have fallen for the 6x6 (square)

particularly for abstracts and still lifes.

The crux is that I compose images in the frame of my camera and I

have a hard time trying to visualize a square image out of a

rectangular frame. I wish there was a type of mask I could use. I

have a TLR (autocord) which is excellent, but I would like to be able

to just use one camera instead of carrying around two. Carrying the

pentax is like carrying two cameras anyway :)

 

Does any veterns have any tips on how to visualize a square image in

a rectangle frame when one is out in the field or is this something

that is left for the darkroom, after the fact?

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Tom,

 

I understand your yearning; the balance of Euclidean geometry has turned the tide against the rectangle for me and I too squared up to a 6x6cm.

 

I'm not a veteran, however the square of an SqAi fails to deliver a 100% viewfinder screen. Even on critical composition, I have found a stone, a twig, half a bale of hay, or a a thread of unobserved nature creep into the corners of an image, and at times can wreck an otherwise anticipated rendition of a subject. If you do mask the groundglass to a square, you would lose the lateral advantage of the wider focusing screen.

 

Have you perhaps tried carrying a 6x6cm slide mount without glass to view and frame your compositions before turning to the Pentax viewfinder?

 

I am not a cropper; with respect, an afterthought may be welcome however is unlikely to alter or deepen the joy of practicing a square composition.

 

Kind regards,

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Hi Tom,

<p>

With some fine lines you should be able to make marks for a <a href="http://www.fotografiewimvanvelzen.nl/publication02.htm">square composition</a>.<br />

An extra your 67 has, is to get some shift. If you turn the camera on its side and you use the upper part, you have 7mm of shift.

<p>

<a href="http://www.fotografiewimvanvelzen.nl">Wim, square addict</a>

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I agree that you can mark out a 6x6 area onto your ground glass & use that as your working area when composing. Another solution would be masking the film back. I know some other 6x7 systems allow for masks to be placed over the film back to shield the neg & effectively crop the exposure area (persoanlly I'd just shoot 6x7 & crop).

 

Otherwise buy a cheap old Hasselblad next time you have the cash

 

Gavin

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Thanks for the ideas! I'm going to try and mask the ground glass as suggested and see how it goes. I' m thinking I can use a 6x7 negative with a cut out for 6x6 on the ground glass. Since the ground glass is 6x7 it shouldn't be too big a problem.

 

Gavin your mention of getting the 'blad is very tempting given the prices recently. Only thing I worry about is that I usually print up to 16x20 and if I need to crop a 6x6 to 645 I'm afraid I wouldn't be able to attain this. I guess there are differing opinions on high large you can print a 645, I haven't seen any 645's blown up to 16x20 to judge myself.

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