Camera for macro photography

Hi,

 

If you would have a choice between a Canon 80D or an Olympus E-M1 Mark II, which one would you choose for macro photography? I'm fairly new to the world of photography! Thanks :)

Hi Sue. I am sure either camera could do the kind of photography you call macro. I do not know the Canon offering, but I can tell you my experience of the Olympus. Which is that it is a small camera with relatively small lenses. For field work of nature I would lean towards the E MI Mark II. It is a weather resistant model as well which could be of significance. But, backing up, macro work involves things in front of the camera. And here is where you get into more detail than I can give in a brief answer. Are you thinking static subjects or insect life? Most people opt for a macro lens which is designed to be sharp and focus close up. Both companies make them. Often there are several available. Certainly you need to get at least one good book on close up photography and learn what mechanical devices you will need. In my case I use a macro lens as well as a macro rail. It gets technical. If you are just experimenting, you can go simpler than that. So I answer your question with a bunch of questions'....is that not what most counselors do? Get a couple books out before you jump in. I think Olympus are great, but I am certainly prejudiced. I used to shoot Canons but decided on smaller weight and size and life view with crisp electronic finder was the cat's meow.

Thank you very much for your good info. I will shoot static subjects. I think Olympus is great also but I just saw that they're not making M.Zuiko lenses anymore so I'm not sure about that one... so that's why I'm looking into the 80D lately. Soo confusing all the different options! :)

I'm not sure where you heard that Olympus isn't making Zuiko lenses anymore, as recently as yesterday they announced more low light professional lenses are forthcoming.

A few sites:

From DPReview: In memoriam: Olympus brings down the curtain on the legacy Four Thirds system

From Imaging Resource: The Four Thirds system is no more: long live Micro Four Thirds

And here is the fine print from page 23 of the PDF: http://www.four-thirds.org/en/common/pdf/catalog2017_en.pdf

... ?

 

Sorry, the copy/paste for the two first links didn't work.

Edited April 27, 2017 by Sue Bonin

I’ve been shooting a lot of macro over the last few months using a Canon 80D and the EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM lens. I’m not an expert at macro by any stretch of the imagination, but I’m having a lot of fun with it, and the gear I’m using is working out great for me.

 

The 80D’s attributes that I’m finding particularly useful for macro are the good performance at high ISO (so I can use a wider depth of field), the articulated LCD (so I can set up with a short tripod or bean-bag to get forest-floor shots—mushrooms, mosses, insects—without having to rest my chin on the ground), and the option for touch-screen control in live-view mode (allowing good control for where to set the focus, particularly for focus-stacked shots). Since it’s a crop-sensor camera, the 60 mm lens is the equivalent of about a 95mm lens on a full-frame camera, and that gives me a convenient working distance. Because I figured I’d do most of the macro work on a tripod, I didn’t go for an image-stabilizing lens—in retrospect, I think I should have, since it turns out that I’m using it off-tripod a lot.

 

I’ve never used the Olympus cameras mentioned, so I don’t know how they compare; I’m sure there are a lot of cameras that would work just fine for what you need (and I’m also pretty sure that you’ll be delighted with whichever one you get—macro opens up an entirely new world).

I do not know the Olympus Camera; but I do know the Canon DSLR System very well.

 

I think for Macro Work there are a few criteria to consider and some relevant considerations are:

 

> Range of Focal Lengths available in Macro Lenses (for the Canon 80D you have 50, 60, 100, and 180 plus the third party lenses)

> Flip out LCD screen (both have that I believe)

> Image Stabilization (useful if going hand held - Canon has one Macro lens - Olympus is in body I believe)

 

*

 

General comments:

When making any choice between Camera Manufacturers I consider the ease of access and range of accessories. If you are a 'beginner' then it is unlikely that you will only ever do "macro Photography" so I think your choice of camera should be predicated on what Camera System might generally suit your expected needs, not just limiting those needs to "macro".

 

(good) Macro Photography is often dependent upon well organized and executed Flash Lighting and macro photographers often make their own flash lighting rigs: again consideration of what lighting accessories are available for each system.

 

Your budget is a consideration: remembering that Macro Work will very likely mean the purchase of: Tripod; suitable Head; and probably Flash equipment.

 

Lastly, both Cameras are very good: but I think that one will "feel" better in your hands and will appeal to you as more logical in functionality so I suggest that you try both, in your hands and use both and see which one that you like better.

 

*

 

To answer your question directly: between the two cameras, I would choose the Canon 80D, even if I didn't already own any cameras at all.

 

The main reason being for that choice- where Iive there are many Canon dealerships; re-sellers and repairers and the range of lenses and accessories is more vast, plus some of my family and friends have Canon DSLR kits - whereby I could borrow gear.

 

WW

Addendum:

 

I have been thinking on one particular point and I cannot come to any strong opinion either way:

"Comparing/Contrasting Mirror-less to DSLR, is one system superior to the other for Macro work?"

 

WW

So......... I'm the proud owner of a "Olympus O-M1 Mark II" as of tonight. Held both and liked the "feel" of the Olympus... I bought the ED 12-40mm f2.8 Pro + Ed 60mm f2.8 Macro lenses to learn macro and everything else I can... It doesn't mean that the 80D is not as good or better - just that I think for my needs, I like the smaller gear better. It also has all that I'm looking for...

 

Thank you all for answering. It greatly helped for my choice. :)

Addendum:

 

I have been thinking on one particular point and I cannot come to any strong opinion either way:

"Comparing/Contrasting Mirror-less to DSLR, is one system superior to the other for Macro work?"

 

WW

 

William

I think you will have arguments from both camps, so call it a draw.

So......... I'm the proud owner of a "Olympus O-M1 Mark II" as of tonight. Held both and liked the "feel" of the Olympus... I bought the ED 12-40mm f2.8 Pro + Ed 60mm f2.8 Macro lenses to learn macro and everything else I can... It doesn't mean that the 80D is not as good or better - just that I think for my needs, I like the smaller gear better. It also has all that I'm looking for...

 

Thank you all for answering. It greatly helped for my choice. :)

 

Very good. Have fun with your new purchases.

 

As a BTW, I often shoot with a second photographer who has small hands, she detests my 5D Series cameras and much prefers the lighter and smaller Canon xxxD Series of DSLR. Weight, feel and functionality are very important: I am glad that you handled and tried both cameras, before choosing

 

WW

William

I think you will have arguments from both camps, so call it a draw.

Haha! indeed: I think we would have "arguments".

Now you need to get a good tripod and ball head if you don't already have one, and another useful item in the macro world is a focusing rail/stage. Enjoy your camera and show some of your results....I've had a blast with my Olympus m3/4 body and some of my old school macro lenses on it.

 

BTW I was referring to m4/3 lenses above, not 4/3.

Yes SCL, those are next on my purchase list! When I'm ready, it will be my pleasure to show you my "work". Hours of fun ahead! ;) And yes, you're right William... the "feel" is key here!

 

Love this site. and Iove my new gear. Thank you Gerry, Leslie, SCL, Gary and William for the help. I will surely have more to talk or ask here in the future.

There is debate between the folks that like the ball head and those that like the 3-way head.

I have a ball head and do not really care for it, as I cannot control precise movements. When I move the camera, it moves in 2 axis. I cannot just move the camera in 1 axis. With a 3-way, and I can move the camera in just 1 axis. So for ME the 3-way is easier to use.

 

The focusing rail is really useful. Get the one that also moves horizontally. That eliminates the need to move the tripod just a "tiny bit" to the side, to get the image/composition right. Moving the tripod just a tiny bit was always a pain, cuz it is actually difficult to do.

 

You will want a cable/remote release for your shutter.

Gary, I'll have to look for what "ball head" and "3-way head" mean... is it the fully articulating screen? And thanks for the suggestions re. focussing rail and the cable (shutter) - I need stabilisation so I'll need a tripod also - a small one (not too expensive) to start. What do you suggest? I was thinking "Joby" to start with (on the table)...

 

And as I mentioned earlier in the thread, here is the first image I took with my fabulous Olympus E-M1 Mark II - First dandelion by zezanneb - Photo 209715985 / 500px. Like I said, I will need a tripod! Please tell me what you think! :)

Sue,

"Ball head" and "3-way head" refers to the adjustable part on the top of the tripod.

• Some tripods come with a fixed head, you cannot change it, it is part of the tripod. Usually this is a 2-way or 3-way head.
   
  
• Other tripods come without a head, and you buy the head you want and screw it onto the stud on the top of the tripod. You can also change between head to use the head best suited for a particular task.
  

 

Ball head means it is a ball and socket design where the camera is attached to the ball, and the ball swivel around inside the socket.

The advantage is that it is FAST to move the camera to a position. Just unlock and move the camera.

The disadvantage (for me) is that the camera can move in all 3 axis, and it is difficult (for me) to precisely position the camera.

 

3-way means there are separate controls for each axis; elevation (tilt up/down), left/right tilt (example, to make the horizon level), and rotation.

On some of the heads, you may not have the left/right tilt, and you have to adjust the tripod legs to level the camera.

The advantage is if you want to level the camera, that is the only thing you do. Just that one axis.

The disadvantage is that it is much slower to position the camera than the ball head, because you have to do each of the 3 axis individually.

 

As for tripods, I have not shopped for a tripod for a while.

My usual tripod is an old Bogen 3001. Bogen does not exist as a distributor any more.

But here are some of my thoughts.

 

The tripod that works best for me, may be a total miss-match for you.

You need to match the tripod to YOUR requirements and needs.

 

There is no ONE perfect tripod. A jack of all trades is a master of none.

But you do not need MANY tripods, some requirements overlap enough that the same tripod can do multiple roles.

1. For some shots you want a small table-top tripod.
   
   1. 
      
   2. Some of these are "toys." Too small or weak to be of any use except to a small point and shoot camera.
      
   3. I would not use the Joby. I cannot see how it will be stable enough for macro work with a DSLR.
      

[*]For other shots a medium size tripod.

1. You may end up with 2 tripods here, a standard height and a short one.
   
   
2. Depending on what you shoot, you need to look at how LOW the tripod will go.
   

   [*]If you shoot low to the ground (moss and mushrooms) you may need a SHORT tripod.

   [*]For using a LONG lens or a heavy camera, a heavy tripod.

    

   [*]For traveling, you want a light tripod that will fit into your suitcase.

   If you shoot your macro on a table and put the tripod next to the table, you may not need #1.

   #2 and 4 might be the same tripod. It was for me, for many years.

   You may not need #3 if you do not have a LONG lens. Or it may be many years into the future.

    

   There are a few generalities and guidelines that I use for tripods.

• If you buy CHEAP (junk), you will very likely be replacing that tripod later with a good one.
  
  • Note that inexpensive tripods are not all junk. Some are pretty decent.
    

• Heavier tripods are "usually" more steady.
  

• Lighter tripods are "usually" less steady.
  

• The light tripod you have with you is better than the tripod that is so heavy that you don't carry it.
  

• Carbon fiber is a premium material for a tripod, stronger and lighter than a similar aluminum tripod, but more EXPENSIVE.
  

• More sections in the leg (like 4 or 5) is less steady than few sections (like 3)
  

• If you raise the center column, you start to loose stability. So keep it as low as possible.
  

• Watch out for the advertising.
  

• The advertised max height of a tripod may be with the center column extended all the way up.
  The tripod is the least steady with the center column all the way up.
   
  
• The height you want is the UNextended height, with the center column DOWN.
  

• A crank adjusted center column is easier to use in a studio/closeup situation, where you can easily fine tune the height of the camera.
  

• A lighter or midrange tripod can be made more steady by hanging a weight (camera bag) from the tripod.
  

• Fit the tripod to the camera and task.
  

• The tripod for an 8x10 view camera is total overkill for your camera.
   
  
• A dinky telescopic tripod is only good for a small point and shoot, and may not even support your camera.
  
• Look at the tripod manufacturers rating of the weight capacity.
  

• There are a LOT of decent mid grade tripods out there.
  

• If you shoot in COLD weather, look at the controls. Some tripod control and leg adjustments are difficult to use with gloves.
  

• Look at the feet of the tripod.
  

• You do not want to use a tripod with spike feet inside a house.
  
• Some tripods have interchangable feet; spike for outdoors and rubber for indoors.
  

whew, I think that is more than enough for now.

Some tripods have legs that can splay out, or a reversable center column. But depending on the situation, they may or may not be practical.
Edited April 29, 2017 by Gary Naka

I like the pix.

On a pix like that it is difficult to determine where to focus on.

That is the kind of stuff that my wife want to do, close-up/macro of flowers.

 

Look at books of the subject you plan to shoot, to give you ideas of angles and perspectives.

Nice first attempt. Keep at it, and shoot everything in macro and you might be surprised at how creative you become. A hint from my past in shooting flowers/plants, keep a mister handy...lots of times having droplets of water on plants improves the interest factor. On tripods, Gary gave you lots of good advice. I'd like to add that most tripods can be steadied (like in the wind, etc), by filling a plastic pop bottle or milk container with sand or water and suspending it from the center of the tripod. Also, often good used tripods can be found on Ebay for much less than a new one, allowing those on a budget to get a better tripod than they might normally be able to afford (I did that with a Gitzo), also consider charity shops for lesser quality used ones (I keep one handy) they frequently show up there after people tire of their features or move up to more sophisticated ones. Unlike Gary, I much prefer the ball heads to the 3 axis controls, which are much more suited to video work than general photography IMHO. I've replaced the 3 axis controls on my less expensive tripods with ball heads. I also keep a couple of table tripods, but don't frequently use them as much as I thought...again mounted with smaller ball heads.

Sue,

The difference that SCL and I have with the tripod heads is an example of why YOU will need to find out what works for YOU. Everybody is different and that reflects in the gear they use.

 

SCL has a good idea, eBay, thrift shops, Craigs List, and estate and garage sales are good sources of inexpensive decent gear. I got a good Bogen tripod and head for $20 on the last day of an estate sale when stuff was 50% off. Though you have to be real patient and wait for stuff to show up.

Sue,

"Ball head" and "3-way head" refers to the adjustable part on the top of the tripod.

• Some tripods come with a fixed head, you cannot change it, it is part of the tripod. Usually this is a 2-way or 3-way head.
   
  
• Other tripods come without a head, and you buy the head you want and screw it onto the stud on the top of the tripod. You can also change between head to use the head best suited for a particular task.
  

 

Ball head means it is a ball and socket design where the camera is attached to the ball, and the ball swivel around inside the socket.

The advantage is that it is FAST to move the camera to a position. Just unlock and move the camera.

The disadvantage (for me) is that the camera can move in all 3 axis, and it is difficult (for me) to precisely position the camera.

 

3-way means there are separate controls for each axis; elevation (tilt up/down), left/right tilt (example, to make the horizon level), and rotation.

On some of the heads, you may not have the left/right tilt, and you have to adjust the tripod legs to level the camera.

The advantage is if you want to level the camera, that is the only thing you do. Just that one axis.

The disadvantage is that it is much slower to position the camera than the ball head, because you have to do each of the 3 axis individually.

 

As for tripods, I have not shopped for a tripod for a while.

My usual tripod is an old Bogen 3001. Bogen does not exist as a distributor any more.

But here are some of my thoughts.

 

The tripod that works best for me, may be a total miss-match for you.

You need to match the tripod to YOUR requirements and needs.

You will need to sit down and really think about how you will and might use the tripod.

 

There is no ONE perfect tripod. A jack of all trades is a master of none.

But you do not need MANY tripods, some requirements overlap enough that the same tripod can do multiple roles.

1. For some shots you want a small table-top tripod.
   
   1. 
      
   2. Some of these are "toys." Too small or weak to be of any use except to a small point and shoot camera.
      
   3. I would not use the Joby. I cannot see how it will be stable enough for macro work with a DSLR.
      

[*]For other shots a medium size tripod.

1. You may end up with 2 tripods here, a standard height and a short one.
   
   
2. Depending on what you shoot, you need to look at how LOW the tripod will go.
   

   [*]If you shoot low to the ground (moss and mushrooms) you may need a SHORT tripod.

   [*]For using a LONG lens or a heavy camera, a heavy tripod.

    

   [*]For traveling, you want a light tripod that will fit into your suitcase.

   If you shoot your macro on a table and put the tripod next to the table, you may not need #1.

   #2 and 4 might be the same tripod. It was for me, for many years.

   You may not need #3 if you do not have a LONG lens. Or it may be many years into the future.

    

   There are a few generalities and guidelines that I use for tripods.

• If you buy CHEAP (junk), you will very likely be replacing that tripod later with a good one.
  
  • Note that inexpensive tripods are not all junk. Some are pretty decent.
    

• Heavier tripods are "usually" more steady.
  

• Lighter tripods are "usually" less steady.
  

• The light tripod you have with you is better than the tripod that is so heavy that you don't carry it.
  

• Carbon fiber is a premium material for a tripod, stronger and lighter than a similar aluminum tripod, but more EXPENSIVE.
  

• More sections in the leg (like 4 or 5) is less steady than few sections (like 3)
  

• If you raise the center column, you start to loose stability. So keep it as low as possible.
  

• Watch out for the advertising.
  

• The advertised max height of a tripod may be with the center column extended all the way up.
  The tripod is the least steady with the center column all the way up.
   
  
• The height you want is the UNextended height, with the center column DOWN.
  

• A crank adjusted center column is easier to use in a studio/closeup situation, where you can easily fine tune the height of the camera.
  

• A lighter or midrange tripod can be made more steady by hanging a weight (camera bag) from the tripod.
  

• Fit the tripod to the camera and task.
  

• The tripod for an 8x10 view camera is total overkill for your camera.
   
  
• A dinky telescopic tripod is only good for a small point and shoot, and may not even support your camera.
  
• Look at the tripod manufacturers rating of the weight capacity.
  

• There are a LOT of decent mid grade tripods out there.
  

• If you shoot in COLD weather, look at the controls. Some tripod control and leg adjustments are difficult to use with gloves.
  

• Look at the feet of the tripod.
  

• You do not want to use a tripod with spike feet inside a house.
  
• Some tripods have interchangable feet; spike for outdoors and rubber for indoors.
  

whew, I think that is more than enough for now.

 

Holy cow! This answer is more than I expected and I really appreciate your taking the time to explain. After reading your post, I'm faced with another big choice... a good tripod. I'm going to take my time and choose the right one for my needs. I'm going to refer to your recommendations since it's very thorough.

 

Many thanks, Gary! :)

 

(Excuse my English - my main language is French).

Some tripods have legs that can splay out, or a reversable center column. But depending on the situation, they may or may not be practical.

I like the pix.

On a pix like that it is difficult to determine where to focus on.

That is the kind of stuff that my wife want to do, close-up/macro of flowers.

 

Look at books of the subject you plan to shoot, to give you ideas of angles and perspectives.

 

Thanks. I just bought the book by Cyrill Harnischmacher - The Complete Guide to Macro and Close-Up Photography - Lots of good info in it.

Yes, the focus on the dandelion is on one tiny dot... I need to play with that. :)

Sue,

The difference that SCL and I have with the tripod heads is an example of why YOU will need to find out what works for YOU. Everybody is different and that reflects in the gear they use.

 

SCL has a good idea, eBay, thrift shops, Craigs List, and estate and garage sales are good sources of inexpensive decent gear. I got a good Bogen tripod and head for $20 on the last day of an estate sale when stuff was 50% off. Though you have to be real patient and wait for stuff to show up.

 

Thanks for the tips! :)

Nice first attempt. Keep at it, and shoot everything in macro and you might be surprised at how creative you become. A hint from my past in shooting flowers/plants, keep a mister handy...lots of times having droplets of water on plants improves the interest factor. On tripods, Gary gave you lots of good advice. I'd like to add that most tripods can be steadied (like in the wind, etc), by filling a plastic pop bottle or milk container with sand or water and suspending it from the center of the tripod. Also, often good used tripods can be found on Ebay for much less than a new one, allowing those on a budget to get a better tripod than they might normally be able to afford (I did that with a Gitzo), also consider charity shops for lesser quality used ones (I keep one handy) they frequently show up there after people tire of their features or move up to more sophisticated ones. Unlike Gary, I much prefer the ball heads to the 3 axis controls, which are much more suited to video work than general photography IMHO. I've replaced the 3 axis controls on my less expensive tripods with ball heads. I also keep a couple of table tripods, but don't frequently use them as much as I thought...again mounted with smaller ball heads.

 

 

OK, Thank you for that. May I ask which tabletop tripod you use? Just to help me decide in the end... And I find that photographs with droplets look amazing so I'm going to try that for sure in the future.

I still refer to an older book by a wonderful nature photographer. Likely it is available in your local library. "Closeups in Nature," by John Shaw. This book showed me how I can use my zoom lens, similar to what you got, with a light simple filter like close up adapter to shoot flowers and such. It is pre digital, but so very relevant. Check it out when you have time. For his photos alone if nothing else. I use a monopod by the way, for stability and framing of closeups where a larger tripod would be tough to carry. Bonne chance, Sue. Aloha, GS