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Cambo 8x10 - is this scale just used when shooting 4x5?


robertfarnham

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Forgive my ignorance here. My new 35 yr old camera didn't come with

the instruction manual. <br>

There's a 4x5 vs 8x10 aperture scale on the back standard fine focus

knob. What is this for? <BR>Am I wrong in assuming that, in 8x10

mode, I should set my aperture to the amount of light read by my

flashmeter and I'd have to adjust according to the scale if I was

shooting with a reducing back? <br>I was plagued by underexposures the

last time I used it (before I broke the glass...), and am wondering if

there's something obvious that I missed. <BR> Any help is very much

appreciated. <BR>Robert<div>00E2eV-26301884.jpg.9e36b72bab76bef92435ba0485af3fb3.jpg</div>

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<p>I'm not familiar with your specific camera, but I think the device that you show in the photo is for selecting the aperture to have sufficient depth of field. The principle is that you set the standard to focus on the closest object that you want in focus, than the farthest, and the separation (in image space) tells you how far to stop down to get both in focus. You set the focus half way in between. Somehow this knob implements this method. Sinar is well know for having this feature. The scales are different for 4x5 and 8x10 because different diameters for the circle of confusion are assumed for the two formats.</p>

 

<p>This method works very well. It is described at <a href="http://www.largeformatphotography.info/fstop.html">http://www.largeformatphotography.info/fstop.html</a>.

It can be implemented on almost any camera using a ruler or scale, plus a table. Some studio cameras have a knob, like your Cambo, which combines into one device the ruler and table. Maybe you can figure out how to use the knob on your Cambo from that webpage, or can find directions for the Cambo, or perhaps the Sinar directions will help.</p>

 

<p>Exposure and depth of field are two different issues. If using flash, you need to set the aperture to get a good exposure. If this the aperture doesn't give enough depth of field, so that you want to stop down, you need to move the flash closer, buy stronger flash, or use multiple "pops" of the flash. If you are doing closeups (subject within ten times the focal length of the lens), don't forget that you have to compensate the exposure for the extension of the bellows.</p>

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Hi Robert,

 

I have a Cambo as well. It makes a nice heavy duty studio camera.

 

The knob you describe is used to determine ideal focus and depth of field.

 

The depth of field scale works like this:

1. Once your rough focus is done, use the rear standard fine focus knob to focus on

infinity or the most distant point you wish to keep in focus.

2. Without turning the focus knob itself, line up the zero on the scale with the white

indicator.

3. Adjust the focus knob until the nearest point you want in focus is sharp.

4. Whichever f stop is now lined up with the indicator is the f stop you need to shoot at

to keep the entire near to far range in focus. You use the scale that corresponds to the

format you are shooting (8x10)

5. To set the ideal focus point, adjust the focus knob until the f stop 2 stops larger is lined

up with the white mark. For example, if you found in step 4 that you need f32 to hold

focus, you would adjust the focus until f16 on the scale lines up with the white mark. This

is ideal focus point to keep everything in your pre-determined range in focus.

 

 

Randy

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hello everyone. i am also new to LF. i have akorona view 4X5. so i do not have any measuring system for my rail. what would you suggeest for me to do? i would like to pick the correct F stop, as well as to pick the correct focus area. any help would be great. sometimes it feels as if my head will explode::)))

 

eddie

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Thanks to all, I have never seen that model of Cambo camera before, it must be very new since old Cambo models were mostly gray. That sharply tapered bellows is also unusual for Cambos. In much of their past history they seemed to avoid that to prevent cutting off the image with swings and tilts.

 

Thanks again, that was my first time with the close up detail.

 

Lynn

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Hi Lynn, <br>

The camera is quite old, actually. The lens and the camera were purchased together sometime in the early 70's, used a few times, then stored. The serial number on the Symmar backs this up...made sometime in 1971. I was lucky enough to win it in auction a couple of months ago. <BR> Regards, <br>

Robert

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  • 6 months later...

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