[C330f] Diaph ring handling very difficult

<p>Hi there,<br>

<br />I just purchased a 55mm for my C330f, it looks pretty, but the diaph ring is very difficult to move.<br>

I'm even afraid to break the plastic handle<br>

I think the time being, notches are maybe sticked or whatever.<br>

Anu easy way to fix it, air pressure, oil, grease ...?</p>

<p>Send it out for a CLA. Most likely the aperture blades are binding, oil or grease will make it worse. Do not use until the problem is resolved.</p>

<p>Definitely a CLA is called for. The iris diaphragm for the 55mm does not have click-stops.</p>

<p>Mine went like that a couple of years back. Took it for a CLA! :)<br>

Not connected with this question but the other day I saw a mint C3 (still with its lens-cap!) in my local camera shop. Price - £229 ( = ca. $365) !! That's steep for a near 50 year-old camera. But the Devil on my shoulder was whispering "Buy!". I did manage to overcome temptation! :)</p>

<p>Contact Carrol at Flutot's.<br>

http://www.flutotscamerarepair.com/<br>

http://www.flutotscamerarepair.com/Message.htm</p>

<p>Send it to a CLA. The 55mm has or does not have click stops, depending on the version. But if you force it you WILL break the plastic handle. It is fragile (i already broke one).</p>

<p>$365 is too steep for a C3.</p>

<p>Always under investigation, my father in law job is to repair camera lenses, but camera for movies, not sure it's the same job.<br>

My 55mm has click stops.<br>

Flutot is too far, I live in France, I would rather go to Focale22 in France.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>my father in law job is to repair camera lenses, but camera for movies, not sure it's the same job.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Mamiya lens are in Seiko shutters. I have very little experience with Seiko shutters as they are not that common in large format camera lens. Your father in law should be able to fix it especially if the movie cameras he has experience with has small mechanical parts. This description of leaf shutters should help.<br>

At the bottom of the case is the aperture plate with the lever that you operate. It has slots in it that are angled or curved.<br>

Above that is the aperture blades laid on top of the previous one in a counter clockwise direction. Each blade has a pin on each end, one goes in the bottom plate and the other goes in the top aperture plate which has holes just large enough for the pin to rotate in. The top aperture plate is attached to the case with screws once the aperture blades are in their respective holes. <br>

Above the aperture is the shutter blades and controller. They may be attached to the top side of the top aperture plate or the bottom side of the main shutter plate. The shutter blades lay over one another in a particular order from a set starting point usually in a counter clockwise direction. <br>

All of this is to remain dry and free of oil or grease. Extra fine powdered graphite can be used.<br>

<br />The main plate is attached to the case with screws and will fit only one way. On top of the main plate is the delay gear train, the flash sync, setting and release mechanisms. Where a metal part slides against the case a small amount of grease is needed. All gears and levers that rotate on a shaft should have a trace of oil.<br>

Next is the speed ring. It should have a trace of grease on the surfaces that make contact with the shutter case, levers, and its top side where it contacts the cover plate.<br>

If the delay gear train is a unit assembly then do not disassemble it. Use a digital P&S with macro mode to take picture of the shutter as it is disassembled as this makes reassembly much easier.<br>

Disassembly:<br>

1. Front and rear lens cells.<br>

2. top plate.<br>

3. Speed ring.<br>

4. Release, setting, delay, flash sync mechanisms.<br>

5. Main plate.<br>

6. Aperture plate. may be an assembly that is disassembled out of the shutter case.</p>

<p>Hi there,</p>

<p>Just got back my 55mm from french Mamiya specialist, Focale 22<br>

Works perfectly.<br>

Thanks for your comments.</p>