Buying Praktica MTL 5 - what to look for?

I've found someone on my local Craigslist selling a Praktica MTL 5 with a "aus Jans DDR T2.8/50" lens for $10.

He's selling it "as is" and I am to inspect it before buying it.

 

Other than checking that all the shutter speeds work and that the lens focuses to infinity, what should I look

for? I want something that will, you know, work reasonably well...

 

Thanks,

Chris

The MTL 5 was produced between 1983-1985. The camera uses the Varta 625 battery for the light meter and flash sync. is 1/125 sec. however,the camera has a tendency to suffer from spacing problems in the shutter because the internal parts of this camera was made quite weak.

 

If you are looking for a screw mount SLR to use I highly recommend the Pentax SP series.

Is there any way to check for this problem with the shutter other than waiting for it to fail?

 

Also, keep in mind that we're talking $10 here - I can handle some risk for that amount of money.

I agree with the shutter leak problem. That was my first real SLR and I learned everything on it. I loved the simplicity of the controls, and few if any cameras I've owned since then have felt as good in actual use. Seriously. And yes, check out the Pentax screw lenses if you like sharpness. The end came when I started getting faint narrow bands of increased density in the middle of negs that I couldn't ignore. The solution for you would be to put a roll of film through before buying, but as d+p could end up costing more than the camera itself you could just ask the seller. If it were me, at that price I'd take the chance. Good luck.

That is a Tessar lens from Carl Zeiss Jena. It is an excellent lens worth the $10 for the lens alone. The MTL 5

is a very good camera. I own 3 of those models. The shutter is vertical, metal bladed; one of the best designed

and made. You can test the shutter against a TV set with pictures running. Remove the lens, hold the camera

against the TV a few feet away, open the back of the camera, look through the frame and fire the shutter at

different speed settings starting with 1/60 sec and go higher. Fire several times at each speed. At 1/60 sec it

should show full frame. At 1/125 sec it should show half frame. At 1/250 sec it should show 1/4 frame. At 1/500

sec it should show 1/8 frame/ And at 1/1000 sec it should show 1/16 frame. Full frame would be all of 24mm. And

1/16 frame would be only 1.5mm wide strip of the TV picture. Usually these shutters are very accurate, unless

someone had mishandled them. Check the lens clarity, aperture, focusing mechanism and the automatic pin. Inside

the front of the camera check the mirror and levers as to whether they are clean. If these are okay and the

rewind button works from the bottom then you have a very good bargain. As suggested above you may also try a film

roll in it to see the results. All the Best!

Regarding the battery you can use the modern button cell battery no 357 or D357. It works very well. No need to search for the Varta 625.

I'd agree with Subbarayan - it is a really excellent and accurate shutter. Quality control at Pentacon was perhaps not the best, but as long as you get one that is still working 25 or more years later, it should keep going indefinitely. About 9 out of 10 Prakticas have a disintegrating light seal at the hinge end of the back, but this is very easily replaced.

 

The MTL5B used a SR44 silver oxide button cell which I think is still available. You may need to make a simple adapter to use some button cells in place of the 625 cell used in the MTL5 and earlier, but as the meter uses a bridge circuit, the voltage is not critical as long as it is somewhere near. Always check before buying that someone has not left a leaky cell in the camera. If they have, and the circuit board is corroded, it is really only good for spares.

 

Praktica prisms sometimes show some brown defocussed marks at the edge of the field of view. They don't get in the way of picture-taking and are quite easy to ignore, but worth checking for if this sort of thing annoys you!

I just got the camera earlier today. It didn't have a battery in it (which is good - there's no corrosion), so I need to find one. Overall, it seems to be in very good condition, even the lens (which does focus at infinity), and the shutter seems to work. It's a little dirty in some areas, but a little gentle cleaning should have it looking about as good as new! Again, worst case is I'm out $10, but I still have the lens and a nice neck strap.

 

Subbarayan - that's a very clever trick for checking shutter speed. I will try it not only on this camera, but on my mom's old Nikon FE (which I occasionally use) as well!

 

I plan to check the light seals for any obvious problems and then put a roll of film in it and see what happens! I'll keep you all posted and try to take some photos of it with my D70s later.

OK, I got a battery and the meter appears to work properly, but I still have to double-check against the metering in my D70s to make sure they roughly agree. I'm not sure yet whether the shutter speeds are accurate - I have to test them as well.

 

There is one problem - the lens does not stop down! In retrospect, this would've been something obvious to check before. The problem is with the lens, I believe - if I push the pin down, the lens' aperture blades do not move. It's stuck at f/2.8. Is it possible to take this apart to fix it?

 

All those things, and a little cleaning and light seal checking, and I might be good to go!

It turns out that the lens was stuck in 'manual' mode, meaning that the automatic step-down was disabled. The switch for M/A was stuck, so I figured that since it only cost $10 it couldn't hurt to take it apart. It wasn't too bad - I only took off the very back ring that mounts to the camera. I found that a small bearing which the switch relies upon had fallen out of place, so I replaced it and now the lens works almost perfectly. The diaphragm blades are still stick sometimes; I think there's a little oil on them.

 

Also, the meter has now stopped working. This is upsetting because it worked, then I went to get dinner, and when I came back an hour later it had stopped working. Maybe next I'll take the front of the camera apart to see if the switch has a bad connection :)

 

Other than that, I just need to replace the light seals near the hinge. Where do I get replacements? Would black felt work? What do I use to remove the existing residue? (Google, here I come!) Then I can start looking for these outrageously cheap M42 lenses I keep hearing about :)

Chris, the lens may have one of two problems. Not difficult to fix. (1) the spring that makes the aperture return

to smaller openings may have gone weak; it is difficult to replace. (2) the other possibility is that the

aperture blades are stuck due to non usage. First, try to switch to manual mode and work the aperture ring back

and forth. It may release it. If it does not you can open the rear end and use a copper wire [0.5mm dia.] to tie

the rotating ring to the aperture lever inside; then the automatic mode will not work. But you will be able to

set the stops in the manual mode. I did that on my Tessar. I shall try and give a reference site on how to

disassemble and clean the Tessar lens if you would like it and want to DIY, later in the day. I think you will

enjoy this camera, really, in spite of the many "put downs" people do on "oh! those Commie" cameras! :) haha! I

have posted some sample pictures on this site earlier under "CZJ Tessar". Please take a look; all the best.

The light seal is very simple. Open an old 35mm cassette and peel off the felt from its opening edges. Cut to size and fix it in place near the hinge with rubber solution or Pliobond. Use the old one for size as a template. Please do not use hardening cement. The other light seals on the grooves ought to be okay. The Dresden Camera makers were conservative [rightly so] and used rope thread in the grooves. They last a life time. If they have been damaged then you may clean the grooves and stick black woollen thread [the knitting type, there will be some spare at home] with the same Pliobond or equivalent. Try to avoid sponge rubber as it disintegrates over time and leaves small particles around. All the Best. I must acknowledge that I learnt the shutter testing method from Ed Romney and Rick Oleson, great teachers, both. Salute them!

Regarding the meter check the bottom battery compartment; there is small pressure spring contact in brass or aluminum in it. That may have to be lifted to apply full pressure contact on the cell. Also make sure that you have the terminals right [sorry, it happens to all of us!]. If it still does not work the battery may be old stock and may have run down. The meter is easy to adjust and calibrate. Let me know if it needs to be done. I shall send you my experience with it and some reference on it. Regards!

I think the lens has one of two problems: (1) The spring that makes the aperture return to the widest opening

after stopping down is weak. (2) The diaphragm blades are sticky.

 

I'm pretty sure it's #2, because occasionally the aperture doesn't close down all the way when I press the pin

in, and sometimes it doesn't return to the widest aperture after stopping down. Switching from the smaller

f-number to f/2.8 causes it to open up all the way.

 

I'm not too concerned; I can make it work, usually, and M42 glass can be found cheaply (that's why I bought this

camera).

 

I have replaced the light seals now as suggested. I think they're a little thicker than the originals because

the camera is now a little harder to close, but it's not a big problem. One interesting thing - under the light

seal near the hinge on the camera itself is an engraved number. Is this a serial number? Why is it hidden under

the light seal? (My # is 104133).

 

Now, the meter - after some work with cardboard and aluminium foil, I have it working consistently. It has two

problems: (1) it stops working at shutter speeds of 1/2 and slower. (2) it is way off, according to my D70. The

D70s, when pointed at my computer screen and set to ISO 200, f/2.8, meters it at 1/320, while the Praktica with

similar settings meters it at about 1/4. So calibration is in order.

 

Other than that, it seems I'm getting closer to having a working camera!

Congratulations! I think you can refine it to good working condition. It is late at night here and my gray cells don't work very well now. I shall send you the reference on the meter and its calibration. It is somewhere in my computer. Recently I did calibrate a couple of them. I shall also send you the reference on the Tessar repair. Tomorrow. I hope the felt seal you used is not making the back of the camera bend near the hinge. Just make sure that the pressure is just right and light. The sticky aperture blades may start working if you use them a little every day. Most lenses will have this problem if they are not used for a long time. All the best! I think you have a very good buy. Make some pictures and post them. I shall look forward!

I am attaching a file on CZJ repair from a good samaritan.

Subbarayan,

 

Thank you very much for all your help! I haven't had much luck finding a lot of information about this camera

and lens on the Internet, and you have been extremely helpful.

 

I can't wait to see the reference on the meter. I'll try to follow the instructions you've posted if the lens

doesn't improve (and if I feel brave). For the record, I found what seems to be the original page with images:

http://oomz.net/tessar/

 

Also, out of curiosity, where are you? I'm in the eastern United States.

Hi! thanks for the kind words. I am in Bangalore, India. I used to live in the US from 1966 to 1978. Studied in UW Seattle,WA for my Masters and Ph.D in urban Planning. Taught in Wayne State U, U of Memphis and UW. Then Back in India at Indian Instt. of Management, Bangalore. Now I am retired and am doing some research and writing on my own and guiding theses in Urban Planning from several universities [some from India, some from the US] among other things. I am also trying to revive my photography and learn more "useless" things, just to keep happy and young! Need to find more time for it. I am impressed by your enthusiasm. Best regards, let me know your progress.

I found a page which said the MTL3 had some adjustments in the bottom of the camera, so I took the MTL 5's bottom plate off thinking they might be similar. I didn't see any adjustments, and now I can't get the bottom back on! It seems like there's something between the battery holder and the film rewind button preventing me from getting the bottom flush with the camera. Do you have any experience with this?

 

Now I have to fix this, the meter, and the lens... one step forward, two steps back!

It turns out that the problem is that the rewind button can't be pushed. This is weird because it worked earlier; I know I tested it.

 

So now I have to fix the rewind button, the meter, and the lens...

I'm sorry to keep replying to my own thread, but I figured out how to put the rewind button and the bottom back together! So now I only need to fix the metering and the lens.

I thought I'd take some photos of the camera...

 

Here it is with lens cap.<div></div>

And without lens cap...<div></div>

Lughtroom 2's copyright watermarks aren't pretty..<div></div>

And last, the lens.

 

Now, if only I could get it all to work right :)<div></div>