Buying a Used Hasselblad 500C or CM ? Ebay or ?

I am looking for a Used Hasselblad. I had a Mamiya RB67, it was way to big and heavy. I shoot people in their living spaces,

so I need a wide lens. Something equiv to a 35 or 28 on 35mm cameras.

 

So I was looking at KEH and see they seem to be in the 1200.00 price range and on EBAY the same ones are selling for

maybe 800-900 and sometimes less.

I know EBAY can be a gamble.

Any advice?

Also: The 500C is substantially cheaper then the CM. Whats the real difference?

 

thanks

<p>The 500c is the older of the two. They did not allow the screens to be changed unless you wanted to use a screw driver and even then one did not have a big selection to go by.</p>

<p>The 500cm allows for a very easy change of the viewing screen. Many photographers want a brighter screen vs. the old original standard screen so it makes it quite easy to change them out.</p>

<p>Other than that there is no difference that warrants a massive price difference.</p>

<p>With all of that said, I would suggest a cm over a 500c if you can get one. Also, they made some cameras that say 500c on the side of them but in fact they are a 500cm with the removable screen. Always ask just in case....if the screen is "clipped" in or screwed in when you inquire about one.</p>

In all the 35mm cameras I have owned, I never ever changed the screen. How important is this feature in real

life?

Ken I didnt read fully through your post. I didnt realize the C model has a darker screen. Then that would make

better sense. Also the age I suppose

<p>I have changes screens several times in my Hasselblads as my eyes aged.</p>

<p>The 500CM is newer (better parts availability should it be necessary) and is more likely to come with a CF (Prontor shutter) or newer lens. The older C lenses with Compur shutters are harder (more expensive if parts are even available) to get repaired. I've had a 500CM and set of CF lenses since 1983 with essentially no problems, though I am a gentle amateur, not a working pro who might be harder on a camera. With a 50 CF-FLE or newer lens (sort of equivalent to a 31mm on a 35mm camera, though comparisons are confusing because of the different aspect ratio), a 500CM in good condition would likely last a long time. KEH, Midwest, or your local store, if you're lucky enough to have one are much more reliable than ebay, but prices might be better on ebay. It depends on how much of a gambler you are. The Accu-Matte screens are brigher than the older standard screens.<br>

Good luck.</p>

<p>Production of the 500C started in 1957. The successor of the 500C came in 1970.<br>

Quite often these cameras have seen a hard life in the hands of professional photographers.<br>

Keep a budget for a good service of your new camera and lens(es)<br>

Even better: forget about these 50+ year old cameras and look for a more recent one like the 501CM or the 503CW. <br>

Same goes for lenses, forget the C series and look for CF or even better CFE/i versions.</p>

<p>Do opt for one with a brighter screen. I have a very early 500C/M that has some 500C-only features on it and the screen was really dark. The Accumat screen I added fixed that, nicely.<br>

In addition, consider buying your camera from <strong><a href="http://www.david-odess.com/">David Odess</a></strong>, a Hasselblad trained repair man who frequents these forums. It is likely that if you buy an Ebay camera, you will want to have it CLA'd. You will pay normal retail from David, but the cameral will have already been spiffed up when you buy it.</p>

<p>Apart from having a brighter screen installed (a one-time operation for most people) there is not too much to consider when it comes to the bodies. An Acute Matte D screen can go for over $200 alone and people know what they are worth and most often take them out and sell them separately. There are of course a few things that can wear out in the bodies, but far less than in the backs and lenses. Two things to look out for in those departments are worn out light seals and uneven frame spacing for the backs and incorrect shutter speeds, especially slow speeds, in the lenses. To be sure, buy either CLAd lenses and backs, or budget in CLA for both. Sooner or later they will need it. Worst enemy of lenses is not being used. For what it is worth, I "excercise" all my lenses at least once a month by dry-firing them ten times at all speeds. Even those I use most often.</p>

<p>I wouldn't necessarily frown on good C lenses either. Optically they are excellent and not many people, if anyone, can tell the difference in pictures taken with C or later lenses. Although parts are no longer made, there are plenty of stock with the repair shops. Ergonomically, however, there is quite a difference, most importantly that the C lenses are constantly coupled for EV. Either you like or hate this "feature" with the majority in the latter category, which is why they made it optional on CF/CFE/CFi lenses. Personally, I like it and use EV coupling all the time.</p>

<p>Ultimately it all comes down to condition and budget when choosing. No surprise there. Unless a 500C has received a brighter screen (and had it properly installed which means calibration in a very expensive jig) there is little reason to go for this old model. A clean 500c/m is a safe bet. The 501 and 503 are newer, but also add potential problems of their own to the fold (desintegration of light absorbing material inside the body, TTL quirks, etc.) so not automatically a better choice. When it comes to backs, A12 and A16 are the most sensible choices. C backs are old and require some manual operation. A24/32 and 70mm backs are almost useless nowadays due to (non) availability of 220 and 70mm film.</p>

<p>Take your time choosing and if buying on the bay, make sure the seller accepts returns, if needed.</p>

<p>I always loved the 500CM, for its friendly and simplicity to use, although I have two 503CW, still I prefer the 500CM.<br>

This camera can bought in a good conmditon with the back and wast level finder for around 250USa dollars from b&h while the 80MM lens could be bought for around 350USA or so, the total might come lenss than 700usa dollars with a good deal condition wise.</p>

Lest the wrong impression is created: the differences between the 500 C/M and 503 CW are not that great (though usefull), and either cameras is as reliable as the other.

I found a 501C is almost new condition for $1500.00

Looks like less then 10 rolls run through it.

Very clean.

I dont need TTL and never use flash.

<p>Recent bodies like the 501CM and the 503CW can be found for reasonable prices, hardly more than the older models go for.<br>

Hence my advice to look for a recent body and lens.<br>

That means less chance of problems or costly repairs. </p>

<p>If it matters to you at all, you will not be able to mount a digital back on the 500C, at least not any Phase One V-Mount backs.</p>

Why would that be?<br>The earliest 500 C and the latest 503 CW, and anything that went in between, have the same rear, the same 'interface' between camera and back. Anything that goes on a 503 CW will also go on any and all of the earlier models. That also means that anything that goes on a 500 C/M will go on a 500 C (the choice that is the topic of this thread).

<p>To the OP: You seem to know exactly what you want, yet keep asking questions which you answer yourself...<br>

You say that the Mamiya RB67 is way too heavy (it is) and then you seem settled on a Hasselblad. On the other hand, since you do not have legacy lenses and accessories for that system, why go this way? What about a good digital SLR which will provide you with ease of operation, getting rid of film and high resolution images?</p>

<p>To the OP: You seem to know exactly what you want, yet keep asking questions which you answer yourself...<br>

You say that the Mamiya RB67 is way too heavy (it is) and then you seem settled on a Hasselblad. On the other hand, since you do not have legacy lenses and accessories for that system, why go this way? What about a good digital SLR which will provide you with ease of operation, getting rid of film and high resolution images?</p>

<p>There are users that simply want the IQ only MF or larger format cameras can give.<br>

Nothing against the Nicans of this world, they have their own specific applications and qualities.<br>

MF be it film or digital is a different tool for imaging.</p>

<p>Not sure why but last time we tried to mount an H20 on the 500C it didn't fit. I don't have a 500C on hand to test anymore...</p>

As said before, if the H20 fits one, it will fit all 500-series Hasselblad cameras. All, without exception.<br>So if that would be a consideration, it really is not something to worry about.

<p>Acute-Matte D screens are worth the money, usually can be found in mint condition for ~$200 or so on the auction site. They are night and day better than the standard 1970s era screens...</p>

Mike Brown:

I had a Canon 5D system a couple years ago. I sold all my digital gear and went back to film.

Digital just didnt give me the look I was after. Images made from real film have a certain look and feel to

them, they have a soul. Images made by computers and sensors are dead and feel fake.

Its kind of like comparing a keyboard to a piano., or a synthesizer to a guitar ..........

 

Even my Nikon FM2n is way better then my 5D. I was a film shooter in the 90s then I bought into the digital

revolution like everyone else. I am not fond of the idea of "new and better" sensors every six months. You

pay $3000.00 for a plastic camera today, and in 2 years its worth half because its been upgraded already 3

times. Its great for the shareholders, but not for me.

 

Meanwhile, my FM2n is still chugging along, and no digital camera can outperform it :)

<p>Ya we thought the exact same thing. The H20 would simply not clip on to the body. We wanted to use it as a backup body but alas had to bring along a DSLR instead... Go try it yourself and see...</p>

Marc,<br><br>Send me your 500 C body and H20, and i will try it myself. ;-)<br>Because if the back would not go on, it's <i>your</i> 500 C or H20 that has a problem.<br><br>It's not a matter of thinking. It's a matter of fact that the rear of all V-series Hasselblads is the same. So anything that will fit any other camera will also fit a 500 C.<br>You're general statement that a H20 will not fit a 500 C is, quite simply, incorrect. But no worries, i know a general statement that is correct: if you have a equipment that is not the way it should be, you should have it repaired. ;-)

<p>We got rid of the 500C, as we never use it and the fact that we couldn't change the focusing screen. Maybe it was indeed the mount on the body, although the film back fit just fine. The H20 fit on both our 500CM and ELM, as did the same film back that fit on the 500C... Anyways just my experience.</p>