Buying a used D810 based on shutter count

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by ray ., Nov 15, 2017.

  1. Sorry to hear that, Ray. The D850 has focus peaking in live view, if that encourages you to give more money to Nikon. :)
  2. Did you try using the electronic rangefinder in your 810?

    Yes, it's not as "positive" as a split image, and the screen also trades brightness for contrast so it doesn't "pop" like a good manual focus screen. Still, the electronic rangefinder is QUITE accurate in my experience, and I can focus fast lenses more accurately with it than I can with a split image. Of course you do need to find something with enough contrast for focus, but then you really need a line or something with a split image to be able to focus it-just park the selected AF sensor(I suggest the center) where you want it then focus until the green o in the lower left illuminates.

    I use my D800 with MF lenses all the time. One thing worth mentioning is that the if you look at 100% on screen, with this much resolution almost NOTHING will be in perfect focus-especially if you're using large apertures at less than infinity. The exact equivalent will depend on your monitor, but looking at a 36mp image at 100% will be the equivalent of looking at a print several feet wide. In reality, if you print or look at them at a more reasonable size(even something like a 20x24 equivalent) what looks out of focus at 100% will look fine.
  3. Don’t expect too much from focus peaking. At least on the Sony mirrorless bodies I’ve used it is way too coarse to be useful. I relied on it a few times with the resulting images being OOF on the main subject; ended up turning focus peaking off never to be used again.

    Similarly, I could never rely on the electronic rangefinder (aka green dot) as the range of focus it covers is too large to ensure critical focus reliably.
  4. Ben, I hadn't yet discovered an electronic rangefinder on the 810, unless you're talking about the magnified image box in Live View. Just saw a video with a guy who uses an attached loupe on Live View, which makes the camera set up quite a bit larger. He had the directional dial on the right programmed to go to magnified view and back to full view with one touch which does seem easier than using the plus and minus buttons on the left.
    I did see an ad for a split screen you can switch out for the optical finder on the D810 but haven't looked into it yet.

    Focus peaking on the Leica can be set up to start automatically as soon as you start moving manual focus on the lens, and can be set back to full frame view just by pressing the shutter release down a smidge. Areas in focus flash your chosen color when in focus, real easy to see on a screen that shows well in daylight- doesn't work so well at night or very low light conditions. The Leica screen can also show clipping on blown highlights or dark shadows with flashing light where they occur in the image. Not sure if Nikon has something similar.
  5. Ray, the electronic rangefinder consists of a green >o< array in the lower left of the viewfinder. With Nikon brand lenses(45mm 2.8 GN excepted) the arrows show you which way to turn the focus ring, and the green dot indicates in-focus. This applies to anything under the active focus point-as I said for MF purposes(in fact for almost all focusing) I use the center point.
  6. I absolutely rely on the digital rangefinder AF confirmation for manual lenses (split screens don't do it for me). There is a known issue that Nikon make the AF confirmation less accurate for manual lenses than AF, presumably to make it "easier to focus" - putting a dandelion chip on the lens works around this, IIRC. I wish Nikon would allow area AF and do the old Canon A-Dep trick of lighting up the viewfinder AF points that are in focus during manual focus (like area mode AF does).

    I don't doubt that Leica are better optimised for manual focus lenses than Nikon, though.
  7. Well, I did some more testing and what looks like correct focus to me visually through the viewfinder seems to match up with what the >o< array indicates. Focus wide open at f/2 is still back further from what I'm targeting, and it's apparent well before 25% full resolution. For the most part my testing has been with the target 5-12 feet away. What's surprising is that I did some shots at f/5.6 and f/8, and the focus error is still visible. Granted these are in a 5-8 foot range, but it's egregious in one shot I took at the lens closest focus point.
    This has been with a 40mm Voigtlander lens with CPU connection to the D810. I have a Nikkor 35mm AIS lens I'll test with now, and take a look at the results later tonight and see if they're any different.
  8. I've never tried this for a manual lens, but is it possible to apply "AF fine tuning" in this case? It might make the digital rangefinder reliable even if the view in the finder isn't. But if it's visibly out, I wonder if something in the mirror system is more than usually misaligned.
  9. I've got to run out for a little while but I took one shot with the UV filter off and it's in focus. Going to take the camera with me and do some more, report back later.
    Andrew Garrard likes this.
  10. Andrew, yes it does help. I've fine tuned all of my lens+body combinations with FoCal and most combo's are improved. This significantly helped by old 50 f/1.2 on the D800 it spends time on.

    BTW, the only lens it didn't help is my 85 f/1.4 which it indicated needed +34 on my D5 which only goes to +20. Sent the lens to Nikon who said it is good and just doesn't work with the D5. Ummm???
    Andrew Garrard likes this.
  11. Thanks for the info, WAngell.

    Sounds like Nikon REALLY want you to buy the Sigma 85mm...

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