Best films to use with Rodinal?

<p>I know this is a bit of a backward question but here goes...</p>

<p>I have got the film bug again. I don't know why but my EOS 5D MkII is back on the shelf and my 50E and Olympus XA are being dusted off. This bug's got me really good this time.</p>

<p>Anyway, I know what I'm like... I'll shoot a few B&W films and then throw my film cameras back on the shelf for a year. The whole process will then repeat itself each year.</p>

<p>After doing some research I have found that Rodinal is probably the most resilient developer with a shelflife second to none. Sounds like the stuff I need so I can use a drop in 2009, another splash in 2010 and finish it off in 2025.</p>

<p>Questions:</p>

<p>1. If I open my shiny new 500ml bottle of Rodinal and use a little of it to develop a few films can I then close the bottle and leave it on the shelf for a couple of years with the intention of using some more in the future? Or does Rodinal's legendary longevity only apply to unopened bottles?</p>

<p>2. Which film would you recommend I use? I obviously need something that will match up nicely with Rodinal. I was hoping for an ISO 400 film but from what I've found by searching Photo.net it seems that Rodinal is best suited to slower films.</p>

<p>Definitely not for a 400 iso film if you want to avoid grain, I love Rodinal with Medium format, but used it for all my 35mm APX 100 (unfortunately discontinued) with excellent results. After 2 years, my Rodinal started to crystaliise, I doubt it can still be used then, there's a limit to its shelf life... I usually use HC110 now which is more convenient to use with almost any film. I'd try with Delta 100, and keep the temperature at 20 degrees c.</p>

<p>Contrarian view: I love Tri-X in Rodinal. Rate at 250. Expect grain.</p>

<p>The stuff lasts forever, opened or not.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Another idea: for the amount of film I'll be shooting it may be better sending it away to get it processed. My favourite lab uses XTOL for all B&W films. Any thoughts?</p>

<p>I'm a big fan of Plus-X (or Arista Premium 100) in Rodinal. If you want similar convenience but for faster films, why not HC-110? Just leave it in syrup form instead of mixing the stock solution like it says on the bottle.</p>

<p>Rodinal does indeed just about last forever. The crystals in the bottom are not a problem, nor is the fact that it has gone a very dark colour. In fact, you'll probably be able to use it in 2109 ;-)</p>

<p>It will work with a number of films, but my favourite slower films are Efke 25 and Fuji Acros. Neopan 400 works pretty well too at around EI250. And for something faster, Neopan 1600 goes very well in Rodinal 1+50. Then there is the old classic TriX - you'll need to work out what EI works best for you with this one.</p>

<p>I'd develop the film myself, rather than relying on a lab. It's cheap enough and easy enough to get started, and you're then in control of the process.</p>

<p>I've used Rodinal for 25 years with all manner of films - Ilford Pan F, FP4, HP5, Delta 100, Delta 400; Kodak TMX and TMZ; Fuji Acros and Neopan 400. Experiment with the speeds, e.g. typically, in bright light, I rate HP5 at 160 ASA and FP4 at 50 ASA. I've had part used bottles of Rodinal sitting around for as long as 4 years and still it worked.</p>

<p>Unfortunately one of the best films for Rodinal is no longer made - Agfa Agfapan APX100. This is an example:<br>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/5679060">http://www.photo.net/photo/5679060</a><br>

APX100 was literally made for Rodinal.</p>

<p>The next best film for me is Ilford Pan F+. Here are two examples:<br>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/3712100">http://www.photo.net/photo/3712100</a><br>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/3712092">http://www.photo.net/photo/3712092</a></p>

<p> </p>

<p>Fuji Acros is superb in Rodinal. I use Rodinal extensively for stand development.</p>

<p>After 2-3 years Rodinal is going to crystillize but that's not a problem, it will be still good.<br>

Some highlight of film-Rodinal combinations:</p>

<p>Agfa APX100/Rollei Retro 100 (iso 80)<br>

Foma Fomapan 100 (iso 80) - very simmilar to APX 100<br>

Fuji Acros 100 (iso 64)<br>

Efke 25 (iso 25)<br>

Neopan 400 (iso 250)</p>

<p>KB400 @ 200 <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/peterbcarter/3579232655/in/set-72157615077475980/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/peterbcarter/3579232655/in/set-72157615077475980/</a><br>

KB400 @ 400 <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/peterbcarter/3764947383/in/set-72157621747994875/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/peterbcarter/3764947383/in/set-72157621747994875/</a><br>

HP5 @ 400 <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/peterbcarter/3906001252/in/set-72157622325666360/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/peterbcarter/3906001252/in/set-72157622325666360/</a><br>

HP5 @ 1600 <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/peterbcarter/3925232843/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/peterbcarter/3925232843/</a></p>

<p>All of these are far from having "potholes" of grain, as people frequently describe Rodinol and grain. I rather like the attempt at pushing to 1600 with HP5.</p>

<p>I know I have yet to get an acceptable image from TX. That was just grain+, which was not what I was looking for.</p>

<p>Rodinol has been around since the dawn of time. For good reason; it works. Stand development usually evens out the grain issues but stand development can be issues with some film. I generally use 1:100 and I have seen outstanding images from 1:200.</p>

<p>Cruse through flickr.com and search for Rodinol. You will see what you want to know. It's the best tool to find out what a film/developer combination can do for you.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Have you thought of getting a bottle of HC-110? It loast almost as long open and it dilutes pretty good to I use Dilution H for many films that is double Dilution H and you just double the times for Dilution B. It is finer grain and if you want to push you can but with Rodinal pushing involves high dilutions and hours of nothing but sitting watching a movie.</p>

<p>Rodinal is what I use for %99 of my film - primarily FP4+ and Pan F+. I too have no problem with Tri-X in Rodinal for certain subjects - it all depends on what you want to achieve. As to shelf life, I've personally gotten something like 5 years out of a partial bottle (as a test) with results that appear absolutely no different than negatives developed when it was a fresh bottle. I left the bottom 50ml sit for years in the factory bottle with nothing but room air inside and it held up just fine (looked like my morning tea though ;) ) If you really want to use 400 speed film, try HP5+ - I've found the results less 'grainy' than Tri-X. In the end it's really up to you. You should try different films in it to see what you get so that you know in advance exactly what to expect. There is no way to accurately get that same level of insight into what to expect by listening to people on the Internet...</p>

<p>- Randy</p>

<p>Randy<br>

And I on the other hand find HP5+ more grainey.. it must just be the difference between us as I like my Tri-X even in Rodinal but I prefer to use 1-100 or more in simi and full stand for both Fp5+ and TrI-X. I always figured what worked for me may not work for another so I learned a long time ago to let others do what they want and I will do what I want as long as it harms no one..</p>

<p>Larry</p>

 

<p>OK, thanks ever so much for all your replies.</p>

<p>I really need to be shooting at ISO 400 as most of my stuff will be indoors in natural light. The common idea for Tri-X seems to be D-76, not many favour Rodinal for the task. That leaves Neopan 400 / HP5 from the suggestions I've heard. I used to use HP5 years ago but I ditched it as it had grain like snooker balls (that was probably down to my own developing in cheapo Jessops universal developer at the time).</p>

<p>So, I basically need two things... shelflife and ISO 400. The suggestion for using HC-110 sounds really good actually. Have any of you used Tri-X with HC-110? I'd be interested to hear what you think. If I was devloping films every week I would use D-76/ID-11 without hesitation but, for my purposes, economy and longevity must come first.</p>

<p>Tri-X and HC-110.<br>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jokerphotography/sets/72157616217008168/</p>

<p> </p>

<blockquote>

<p>Have any of you used Tri-X with HC-110?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Sure. It works fine. I'd say HC-110 is the finest compromise developer around - extremely long shelf life, convenience in use, and just really good general applicability and flexibility with all film types.</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>If I was devloping films every week I would use D-76/ID-11</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I do, and Xtol is my choice of developer. I use it diluted 1:1. Negatives (TMY, Acros, Tri-X) all come out a bit sharper and a bit lower grained than HC-110 dilution H and DD-X.</p>

<p>Ilford XP Super rated at ISO 400 and machine processed provides excellent results.</p>

<p>OK, HC-110 sounds good for my purposes. Let's take it to the next stage: Fixer</p>

<p>How long does concentrated fixer last on the shelf once opened? Any advice on which brands to consider?</p>

<p>Also, do any of you use stop solution when developing black and white films or do you just use water?</p>

<p>Using Rodinal with an inappropriate film, for that matter using any inappropriate film/developer combination, is a false economy. You end up spending money and not getting the results you want. You have wasted film, developer, and your time.</p>

<p>If you want to use HP5 or Tri-X and want a decent shelf life, try DD-X. An opened bottle of concentrate stored in a cool dry place (in my case under the bathroom sink in an air conditioned house) lasted me about a year. I used it up before it went bad. Yes, I know Ilford recommends storage for no more than 6 months. Otherwise use D76 and toss the extra.</p>

<p>Thanks Brooks but I already know all about false economy. I'm here to find out if there's an economical and long lasting solution to my needs. So far, HC-110 seems to fit the bill more than any other developer. 6 months to a year will fly by and I know I'll end up throwing the DD-X away unused. Ideally I could do with something that will be happy to sit for 2 to 3 years.</p>

When developing film I use ALL the chemicals just one time.

<p>Robert, I'll probably do that too. It's the life of the unused leftover neat concentrate in the bottles that I'm concerned about.</p>

<p>Jamie, you should also consider Diafine. I have two gallon jugs that have been sitting in my bathroom cabinet for about a year, and I've been re-using and keeping it stored at room temp with no noticeable issues. Some people love it, some people don't, but no one can deny that it is a low maintenance developer, in both storage and use. Use it with Tri-X for low light and Pan F+ for daylight photography.</p>

<div></div>

<p>I should also add, the reason I have two gallon jugs is that it is a "two bath" developer, meaning you have to use one part, then add a second part, then briefly rinse, then fix, then wash. It's a super easy developer to use because it is somewhat time and temperature insensitive, but it is <em>very</em> sensitive to agitation (don't over-agitate!).</p>