Best analog light meter...Gossen Lunasix 3S or Euro-MASTER 11?

Discussion in 'Large Format' started by j. f., Oct 24, 2005.

  1. Which of these two analog lightmeters would you recommend, Gossen Lunasix 3S or Euro-
    MASTER 11? Or would I be better off aiming for a small digital lightmeter, eg the Sekonic
    FLASHMATE L-308S? I need the meter to be tough and accurate, quick to use for B/W
    portraits, street photography, landscapes in ambient light. I kind of like the display of the
    analog v digital meters, but what do people with experience of both interfaces think?

    The Gossen Lunasix 3S can measure in very low light (-4/+17) for night and interiors, has
    a 7.5 degree spot attachment, and uses a battery.

    The Euro-MASTER 11, the latest version of Weston exposure meters, does not need a
    battery and seems more rugged in build but does not have such an impressive light range
    (+3/+17). http://www.megatron.co.uk/

    Thanks! Gavin.
     
  2. I'd go with the Lunasix 3s because it is very sensitive in low light.
     
  3. Lunasix 3s! - Definitely! :)

    Cheers
     
  4. While the Euro Master II lacks the low light capabilities of a battery powered meter I have
    found it to be a lightweight, pocketable, and dependable companion. For b+w work it has
    been more than adequate for my needs.
     
  5. The Sekonic l-398M, is a wery good al-round analog incident light meter, it is
    tough and accurate, a littel heavy and maybe not the fastet meter around but
    wery reliable.

    www.micbach.dk.........."Photography workshops in Spain"
     
  6. I love my Weston Master II which I recently got off E bay for about $12.00! It registers from .2 to 1600 candle/sq ft in two ranges and requires no batteries. It's about the same vintage as my Speed Graphic.
     
  7. Thanks for all the answers! Couldn't decide so collected them all in the end, 2 secondhand
    and still going strong. The Gossen Lunasix 3S is very well made (not totally necessary but I
    advise this 3S model because it has a red needle which is easier to see and a very useful
    exposure offset function, to use when using filters/bellows entension/matching meters
    etc). I find that you have to press the button for a few seconds until the needle stops
    moving to get accurate reading and the needle does sometimes jump when you try to lock
    it, so read the needle before you lock. I'm now trying to find a measurement probe
    attachment to take reads from 4/5 camera groundglass...that's why I got the meter
    afterall. Just to pass on a good find...the manual for this Gossen, which you can download
    from their website, is very well written, and explains the whole approach/technique of
    light metering...well worth a read, even if you don't have this meter! This meter seems to
    be the same as the Lunapro S (sold in US). Another gossen anolog meter, the Lunapro F, is
    said to be even quicker to use, and can measure coordless flash, it has a different needle
    display/concept...so instead of reading EV numbers and then transfering to a dial as on
    the Lunarpro S/Lunasix 3S you just turn a dial to NULL the needle to a Zero setting, and
    then read off your different exposures. The Euro-master 11 is also very accurate,
    especially in mid low to bright light, but I find it underexposes a bit in dim light (by a
    consistant amount so you can easily adjust) but it is small and very well made, a nice
    design, and no battery, amazing really. The incident dome is not permanently attached
    though, and does rattle a bit when mounted, but it does the job very well. I like this meter
    very much, and would trust it. The one I will use professionally though because of size,
    speed of use is the Sekonic FLASHMATE L-308S...there is no question, digital is faster to
    use, so long as you know beforehand what shutter speed you plan to shoot at...which you
    usually do. Hope all this helps those who were wondering about these meters, and thanks
    for all the comments. Gavin.
     
  8. The only problem is see with the Gossen is that it uses a CDS sensor. That sensor has a memory when you go from bright to dark. Takes time for it to settle down. There's no waiting for an SPD or a selenium sensor.
     
  9. The Gossen 'Lunasix 3' has the CDS sensor, the 'Lunasix 3S' has the Silicon Blue Cell
     
  10. The user manual for the Gossen Lunasix 3S says it has a CdS sensor.

    (Manual found on Gossen's site, in German)
     
  11. The Weston Ranger 9 is also very sensitive in low light.
     
  12. I loved my Ranger 9 dearly but it relies on mercury batteries. Mine wasn't very accurate, non-linear actually, and the error wasn't fully fixable by recalibration. Worse if you tried to set it up for other batteries. Wasted a lot of film because of it. My favorite meter is now the Gossen Lunalux. 9V battery and simple LED null system for ruggedness and high accuracy.

    A meter I've always wanted to try is the Sekonic L398A Studio Deluxe III. A modern classic!
     
  13. AJG

    AJG

    That Sekonic is a great meter for what it is, but it is still a selenium cell meter with all of the limitations that that implies. For daylight or bright studio lighting (think movie studio shooting ASA 25 film) it works well. For low light, not so much.
     
  14. Definitely NOT the Euro-Master.
    Later Weston meters were fitted with poorly sealed selenium cells. You'll find most of the meters for sale today are inaccurate and with a dead or dying cell.

    OTOH, the older Weston III meter had a better made cell that can still commonly be found in accurate and fully-functioning condition.

    The Gossen Lunarsix (all models) uses a CdS cell that has better longevity and reliability. However, this is offset by the use of obsolete mercury cells as the power source.

    If you want that period of meter, get a Sekonic L398 'Studio Deluxe' model. It's far less hassle to find one of those in fully working order - and no batteries to worry about.
     
  15. The Lunasix 3 and 3s use CdS cells. The Lunasix F has a Silicon Blue cell.

    The problem with CdS cells is that these things are sensitive, but slow, and have a memory.
    So in low light you have to wait for an accurate reading, and you cannot make a decent flash meter using one of these. And when used in strong light, you cannot use the meter for a bit until the cell has 'lost its memory'.
     
  16. Responses to these zombie posts are surely an index of boredom at PN.
     
    rodeo_joe|1 likes this.
  17. Good point!
    Personally and to my shame I didn't notice the original posting date. Durh!:oops:
     
  18. Yeah, I get nailed by them more often than I'd like. I blame it on forum software not featuring time and date more prominently.
     
  19. And some folks seem to enjoy crapping on any discussion that doesn't fit their narrowly defined idea of what's "appropriate" here...

    So, your point is?
     
  20. Take it easy Ben.

    Resurrecting these old posts is a bit futile when the OP has obviously made their decision long ago, and then someone replies as if their answer is still relevant.

    I can see the value of adding to some threads as having 'archival' value, but on the whole newbies to PN just post a new question without bothering to do a search of old threads. Or things change and information becomes outdated.

    Sometimes old threads are better left with a DNR notice on them - Do Not Resuscitate.
     

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