Beseler Masking Frame - Stay flat?

<p>Hi all,<br>

I'm currently using a 2-blade easel, and it's driving me insane. The edges are always moving and it's just dying slowly.<br />So I thought I would look at borderless easels, which I much prefer.<br>

I found the Beseler Masking Frame: http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/beseler-masking-frame-enlarging-easel-up-to-8-x-10in/p3862<br>

It's in my price range, but I do have one problem...it doesn't look like it could hold the paper flat in any way.<br />I'm currently using Ilford RC paper, which has a slight bow. I've used sticky back tape to hold them flat in the past but that's getting to be irritating.<br />Do you think that masking easel will hold the paper flat for me?</p>

I'm wondering what could drive anyone insane

using a standard enlarging easel? If it's broken,

then get a new one, and if it's a case of the paper

skewing then the grips are either loose or you're not pushing the paper under them properly.

 

<p>

I'd suggest you get a decent "normal" masking frame. R. R. Beard made the best ones, but even a cheap LPL can work well. Except I suspect most of them have gone for scrap metal now.

 

<p>

 

As for that "borderless" easel; I think it'll drive you even more insane than a standard one. Looks like you've got to slide the paper into thin slots. And who wants a black surface to compose and focus on?

<p>Sadly a new or decent secondhand bordered 2/4 blade easel costs more than this border-less one. <br>

I like the look of border-less prints, they work well with my final display which is why I prefer to work that way.<br /><br /></p>

<p>My experience with borderless easels is limited but it wasn't good. I would look for a used Saunders 4 blade easel--one of mine is over 30 years old and still works like new.</p>

White sprayed steel plate and a few strips of

magnetic rubber? Plus a guillotine or roller-cutter.

<p>I also use Ilford RC without a problem.<br /> A working two blade easel seem to me a much better solution than a borderless one (in my opinion). If yours cannot hold an "easy" paper like Ilford RC, your easel is useless. Maybe you are using a plastic thingie like the Paterson... Buy a really working one (two blades, all metal, second hand ones should be found for almost nothing).<br /> About the paper bow, don`t mess with back tapes or so... just spit on the back of the paper and press it gently against the base. Works like a charm. <br /> If you were using that silly thick FB papers, you could have a real problem. Here, you`d certainly need a good three/four blade easel (usually expensive), if not a vacuum type one to avoid bow. But looks like it`s not your case.</p>

<p>Thanks everyone, good advice, and I'll be looking to upgrade to a 4 blade as you suggested!</p>

<p>IMHO, I`d not discard 3-bladed easels. I think they use to be not only cheaper, but also more convenient and easier to use.<br /> The benefit of four blade easels is that you can place the paper almost anywhere under the light path without moving the whole easel. Good for straight or vertical axis enlargers and enormous easels. Or to make big borders (if it makes sense for you). But in many models there is not a -really good- clip or guide to hold the paper before taking down the blades. I see this an awkward design, present even on some of the most expensive and acclaimed easels.<br /> The three bladed easels I know use to have a top clip or corner or whatever that securely fix the paper before taking down the blades. It`s of course matter of taste, but I think they are comfortable and fast and precise. The problem with this version is that you need to move and raise the easel with the projected image in every size change. Not an issue at all for small/medium sized easels (say, up to 11x14") and/or sloping column enlargers. In trade, the border size is somewhat limited at top (depending on the model).</p>

<p>I mostly use fiber paper, which has a much more pronounced curl (I'd call Ilford RC quite flat, actually). I have a Saunders 4-bladed easel and love it. All papers I've used have been held flat by it. No, it's not borderless, but you could always trim the paper afterwards if you want no border. </p>