Back up camera

<p>My current body is a 7d. My subjects are primarily ,birds flowers insects. I also do family snapshots and a few studio portraits.<br>

7d fills my needs. For some time, my battery would often discharge if I left it in the camera. The lens on the body autofocus on off did not make a difference. I took the battery out when I parked the camera or I just replaced it, if I forgot. Staff at my camera store told me it would cost $250 to repair it,so I just procrastinated, as far as solving the problem. <br>

Yesterday I set up to do some studio portraits . I replaced the battery and the camera came to life. I put my Radio Slave 4i that I have been using for years in the flash shoe and the camera died. Changing batteries will not revive it. It will have to go to Canon for repair.<br>

I know that I should have a spare body anyway, so what should I buy. Posters on this forum recommend the 5d. They are available at reasonable prices on ebay. Problem is, the design is 10 years old and technology is changing so fast, would a new "Rebel" not be a better alternative. </p>

<p>do you want full frame? refurbished 6D is around $1k, sometimes less. Or a used 1Ds, or 5D2, etc. Or a crop model like the 70D, 80D etc. they will all work for birds and flowers and the occasional portrait</p>

 

<p>7DII was released 1.5 yr ago. Why not look at a 2nd hand 7D? Not full frame but you know what you get, all your accessories work, etc. And because of the mark II introduction probably a lot of them are available.</p>

<p>Given your usage, I'd stick with a crop-sensor. Sounds like you need to replace your body and I'm guessing that you want to stay under $500. I think that limits you to something like a used 60D or a T5i. If you don't really need the higher fps of a 7D, then I think you'd do well with a generation or two newer sensor.</p>

<p>I've got a 7D for sale, but it's got over 100,000-clicks. CPS just cleaned and inspected it. It's got that old sensor technology, but if you light your subjects well, the files are very good up to ISO 800. That would be a $400 investment.</p>

<p>If you must go with full-frame, consider a 5D MkII or 6D. The 5D2 produces excellent files, up to around ISO 1600 and the 6D is even better in that regard.</p>

<p>If you are really looking for a back up camera I think a Rebel T6s might be just the ticket for you. It has the newest APS-C sensor and a rear control wheel as well as a good control interface. For all my non-professional work it is most often my go to body. If you find the body too small, just put a battery grip on it.<br>

Re the 7D. While it is likely that an electrical/electronic gremlin has struck, have you tried all the usual fixes; removing both batteries, formatting memory cards, and updating the firmware?<br>

Chris</p>

<p>The ONLY advantage a 5D would have over the 7D is the fact that it's full frame, and that might not even be an advantage in some circumstances. I owned both for a short while (until I upgraded to a 5DIII), and I honestly think the 7D outperformed the 5D except in its wide angle capabilities.</p>

<p>If I was you, I'd be looking at another (used) 7D as a backup. You already know its quirks and features, so there is no learning curve.</p>

<p>Coincidentally (or maybe not), my 7D failed in a similar fashion to yours. The repair cost was still less than half the cost of a used replacement, so I went ahead and had it fixed. The camera repair shop indicated that it wasn't the first one they had seen with this problem (power module, which may explain the dead battery in yours), so it's possible Canon has a bit of an issue here. It came back from Canon Repair with a filthy sensor too, which actually required wet cleaning to remedy.</p>

<p>I use a 5DII and 7D, and am very happy. Since they're the same generation, their interfaces are very similar so it's easy to move between them.</p>

<p>A Rebel you might want to consider is the SL1. It has pretty much the same sensor as the 7D, but is <em>tiny</em>, almost like a point and shoot. I bought one for my young daughter, but often take it with me when I want to go light. Its 18-55 STM kit lens is surprisingly sharp (and the 40mm pancake is even better). </p>

<p>What lens(es) do you have"</p>

<p>WW</p>

<p>Isn't this a battery problem? Batteries get stale after a time. First they last less long and then get worse.</p>

I believe you are saying...buying an older body as a spare. Then you have two old bodies. Seems it would

be better to pony up to a new body you like and can afford and then consider the 7D as your back-up.

<p>William- I see what you are getting at. I have a lot of Canon lenses and the only one that is designed for a crop camera is the 18-135 kit lens. If I go full frame I have a 28-135 . </p>

<p>Martin, I Have four batteries. They can't all be tired. </p>

 

<p><strong>Brett, Jos, David,Christian,Geoff, Mark, Kelly.</strong> <br>

Thank you so much for letting me benefit by your experience. A lot of good advice and things to consider. The body is on it's way to Canon Canada. I will make my decision when they respond. In the meantime I have a new Panasonic LX 100 4/3rds sensor, point and shoot, which is a great walking around camera,but no use in the studio. </p>

<blockquote>

<p><strong><em> . . . I see what you are getting at</em></strong>. I have <em><strong>a lot of</strong></em> Canon lenses and the only one that is designed for a crop camera is the 18-135 kit lens. If I go full frame I have a 28-135 .</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Graham, I think that you only understood <em>part</em> of what I was getting at.</p>

<p>I asked for a <strong>full list</strong> of your lens cache, for three main reasons:<br /> <br /> > firstly to evaluate how many would be an EF-S Lens mount and thus useless for a 5D (et al) <br /> > secondly to evaluate the usefulness and flexibility of your existing lens cache when used on a 5D (et al) for the tasks mentioned<br /> > thirdly to evaluate the usefulness and flexibility of your existing lens cache when used with a Dual Format Kit</p>

<p>***</p>

<p>The EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM would be a suitable standard working zoom lens for a 5D (et al) for family snapshots and also for studio portraiture. I think it would have limitations for birds, flowers and insects. As a side note, personally I am not a big fan of Varying Maximum Aperture Zoom Lenses, especially for Portraiture, mainly because of the difficulties I have noted some Photographers get into especially when using Av Mode and/or Flash as Fill - but if you know the pitfalls then there should be no problem for you. I mainly mentioned this point because if you do run the route of buying second hand 5D (or 5DMkII), you might pick one up with an EF 24 to 105 F/4 L IS USM attached to it for a good price.</p>

<p>The 5D whilst being 10 years old, I find is still a useful / workable camera: though my having two cameras well advanced to my 5D, I still use my 5D quite often - the point is it still produces the same quality of image it did in 2006.</p>

<p>I also have a 5D MkII and obviously a 5DMkII is a better all round camera than a 5D. One would expect that, on the second hand market, as well as being a younger camera the 5DMkII's would <em>generally</em> have fewer actuations than second hand 5D's.</p>

<p>I think that the comment suggesting that you use the 7D as the ‘back up camera” and you buy something new warrants consideration – obviously budget has an impact on those thoughts.</p>

<p>My general opinion about the 5D is: it firstly depends whether or not the 5D is an image quality suitable to you.</p>

<p>Secondly, when choosing a second camera be it the back up or the main camera; I advise you consider your existing lens cache in regard to the points <em>two</em> and <em>three, </em>which I have raised above.</p>

<p>WW</p>

<p>William,<br />Here is a full list of my lenses. Canon 50 1.8, Canon 300 -f4L, Sigma 180 macro 3.5, <br>

Canon EFS 18-135, Canon 28-135, Canon 100-400 L , <br /> <br /> Tamron SP 150- 600</p>

 

<p>I'd pay attention to the discussion of "operating system" foibles, since there are some fault lines between the "Rebel" (XXXD) lines and the other EOS cameras in operation. On the other hand, the differences are not that enormous, even so. People who are used to one, will find the other a little awkward at first. The 7D OS is more similar to the so-called "full-frame" bodies, in any case.<br>

Going to a 35mm-sensor, as opposed to APS-C, would give you some wide angle in your existing lens kit, but if you haven't missed it before now, maybe that's not a concern.</p>

<p>Thank you.</p>

<p>Continuing the points for your consideration.</p>

<p>I think that IF you choose to make a purchase such that a 5D Series (or 6D) becomes your MAIN camera, then you could be:</p>

<p>1. lacking at the W/A end of your lens cache, in which case the consideration of a 24~105/4L IS USM is warranted (and that lens might be available as a 'kit lens' with a new 6D or as the existing 'kit lens' with a second hand 5DMkII as previously mentioned/implied.) </p>

<p>2. lacking the 'reach' you previously had at the long end (which could be addressed by purchasing a x1.4 Extender EF for use with the 300/4L and even the 100~400 4.5~5.6L and or cropping the images made with your telephoto lenses. It occurs to me that your lens cache reflects a passion/use for the longer lenses, so, I think that any compromise in 'reach' would be a considerable concern to you. </p>

<p>*</p>

<p>The 28 to 135 (or 24 to 105) Focal Length range would typically be more suited on a 5D or 6D Series camera for most Photographers making Studio Portraiture. Therefore I see that as plus for thinking along the lines of a Dual Format Kit. Although on the other hand the 18 to 135 range I am sure works quite on the 7D. Note that I am biased toward a 5D/6D series for Studio Portraiture Work because I tend to use Prime Lenses for that task and using your lenses, I would probably use the 50/1.8 on a 5D/6D most of the time and be as happy as a clam. (personally I'd add the 85/1.8 and use the zoom for any W/A Studio requirements)</p>

<p>*</p>

<p>If you're happy with the versatility of your existing lens cache and that cache addresses your output needs, then I think that a 7DMkII is a very good solution and that would become you main working camera.</p>

<p>*</p>

<p>I suppose much depends upon the cost of the repairs for the 7D and what the budget is, that you have. Typically I am biased to buying only new cameras and leaving second hand purchases to lenses and other accessories. Although there are "refurbished" bodies with a warrantee available. So in your shoes, given that the 7D is in hospital and I tend to take that as an indicative of possible future problems, If I were you, I would firstly consider the points made by all above and then it woukld come down to buying a new 7D MkII or a new 6D and I would make that my main working camera and (if the repair estimate is not blowing the bank account) use the existing 7D as my back-up. Assuming <strong><em>my</em></strong> interpretation of your needs, passions and priorities are near to accurate and also considering that your 7D is presently ill: I think that a new 7DMkII body would be the better value for money choice of those two choices I just outlined.</p>

<p>Otherwise, consider getting the 7D repaired and continue with it, only: remembering that this is also a viable choice for you. </p>

<p>Good luck with your choice.</p>

<p>WW</p>

<p>William, Thanks for all that good advice. In fact I do have a 1.4 Canon converter. That i used with my 300 until I got a crop digital body. I bought a 5d that is described as pristine on ebay by a seller with a 100% satisfaction rating. Canon did not say what was wrong with my 7d but they will fix it for $200US, which I think is their standard service charge.<br>

The good news is I will have a full frame and a crop body and they can back each other up. The bad news is they are not the latest design. <br>

I really appreciate all of the helpful advice from photo.net posters <br>

Graham</p>