Back to film, need advice about camera

<p>Hello everyone!</p>

<p>I use to shoot B&W film 30+ yrs ago, mostly on old USSR cheap cameras, doing myself all processing. Around 1990 I quit photography due to major changes in my life. In recent years I become a dedicated Nikon DSLR user and I enjoy photography very much again. I gained a full bag of very good glass, from some old AI to the last finest Nikkor lenses. I gained enough experience and I tried many bodies and many lenses and I'm doing very well with this, many times people around me or friends from Internet are asking for my opinion when about Nikon bodies and lenses.</p>

<p>Recently I start to think more and more to add to my kit a SLR and to shoot again some B&W film that provided me so much pleasure in the past. Of course I want to go on Nikon path because I'd love to give a chance to my good old glass to perform again for what it was intended: film... My problem is that I'm almost ignorant in Nikon SLR's, having just some basic knowledge but not enough to make a proper decision.</p>

<p>I'm curious what you would recomend for a person like me... an old full manual camera? Which model and why? A newer and more performant model like FE2 or FM3A? Or even to give a close look to some of the latest models like N80 or N90s or even F100?</p>

<p>Definitely I want to use my AI and my AI's lenses... not sure if is good to look for newer AF cameras but I am open for suggestions. What I don't want for sure is a huge camera... I prefer something to be medium size, like a FE2 or a little bit bigger. I also don't want to spend an arm and a leg for this SLR but I don't look for a cheap thing too. I'm not afraid to go full manual... in fact this was the only way I did in the past... in the same time I'm not sure if would not be fancy to explore some technical advancements that happen in my huge absence from photography.</p>

<p>What are you thinking? What are you recomending? Any opinion would be appreciated!</p>

<p>Last but not least... if this is not exactly a topic for this forum I honestly apologise... I considered to address my question to Nikon forum but it seems that there the focus is very much on digital and I saw that here are lot of people with invaluable experience in photography and in old gear.</p>

<p>I shoot a Nikon FE, which I find to have the perfect balance of features and price (used). It has everything I consider essential: manual and aperture-priority modes, AE lock, a self-timer, and DOF preview. Unlike the FE2, it can use pre-AI lenses without modification, and also works with AF and AF-S lenses (except for G lenses, which have no aperture ring), though of course you have to focus manually and VR won't work. It can also accept a modern K3 focusing screen (from the FM3a) as long as you dial in +0.5 exposure compensation.</p>

<p>If I felt like spending the money for an FM3a, who knows, I might like it even better, but the FE costs a lot less these days and does everything I need and nothing I don't need, so for me, at least, it's pretty much the ideal 35mm film SLR.</p>

<p>If you want an AF camera, then a used F100 is a good choice and shouldn't be too expensive.</p>

<p>I know this is the classic cameras board and we're supposed to talk about manual focus cameras, but for a Nikon DSLR user the best choice is probably the F100. Its lens compatibility profile is almost exactly the same as a D700 (I say almost because IIRC the D700 meter can be in matrix with AI lenses and the F100 can't). It shares a lot of the accessories with DSLRs as well - SB-600/800 flashes, the electronic cable release, eyepiece attachments for the high end models, etc. It can use AF, AFS and VR and the finder is good enough for MF use, and you can use the aperture ring.</p>

<p>For greatest range of lens compatability go for the FE. For a wider range of shutter speeds (top speed 1/4000) the FE-2 is a good choice. If you don't mind manual exposure the FM has the compatability of the FE, but only needs battery for metering. The FM-2 retains the top 1/4000 shutter of the FE-2 but is battery indenpendent. The FE-3, offers aperture priority but will work mechanically at all speeds. </p>

<p>The FA is the first film Nikon camera with Automatic Patterm Metering. This was a big step forward.</p>

<p>For small size in an all mechanical camera the FM2n is great! I also have a totally manual (no meter DE-1 prism) on my F2. The F2 is the best built and most "jewel-like" of the mechanical line. One can feel the precision right through the fingers. See my post here:<br>

<a href="../classic-cameras-forum/00U6uW">http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00U6uW</a><br>

That said, the Nikon film camera I use the most is the F3HP. Being an eyeglass wearer, the HP prism eye relief makes all the difference to me. It does need batteries for the electronic shutter but it is the one I would recommend without hesitation. You might want to take a peek at Steve Gandy's Nikon site for some other info and ideas here:<br>

<a href="http://www.cameraquest.com/nikonslr.htm">http://www.cameraquest.com/nikonslr.htm</a></p>

Les, I meant to say FM-3. Had a senior moment there. ;)

<p>Look at how inexpensive the greatest manual focus slr of all time, the F3, is these days.</p>

<p>Les, I may look a while longer. Those are still very pricey. I do like that fact that all shutter speeds are accessible even if the batteries expire. When Nikon sold this model, the manual focus 50mm AIS was already out of production so many dealers actually sold it with the AF version of that lens.</p>

<p>@Mike, the 50mm f/1.4 AI-S is still in production today (as is the 50mm f/1.2 AI-S). Unless you had in mind the f/1.8?</p>

<p >Well, Mihai, it’s good to have choices. And that you have amongst the several bodies you mentioned. </p>

<p > </p>

<p >I must premise my remarks by saying I have found sufficient reason to acquire and shoot several bodies, multiples in many cases. A strong argument could be made for any of the bodies you noted, though I would add the FM2n to your list. Firstly, consider which features you find important.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >My abbreviated rationale for various bodies…if going for AF, nix the N80 and 90 and go straight for the F100. If my F100 disappeared I would replace it in a NY minute. N80 won’t meter with MF glass. I prefer the FE2 over the FE; 1) faster max shutter spd (4000^th vs. 1000^th for minimal DOF when shooting fast glass…very significant), 2) TTL flash metering, very significant and makes a breeze of fill-flash (FE not TTL flash), MIR: ‘The FE2 flash metering is a vast improvement as compared with the earlier FE.’ 3) 250^th flash sync (125^th for FE). About the only downside to both: the meter cannot be illuminated. Yes, the FE can mount pre-AI glass but hardly a deal-maker. We’re down to a couple FE2’s. </p>

<p > </p>

<p >I have a weakness for the FM family and confidently shoot all of them on rough and tumble occasions (FM, 2n and 3a). Again, it all comes down to features. I could sing the praises of the F3 equally well, except for lack of TTL flash and dim meter light. Yet for a thoroughly retro look and feel the F2 can’t be beat for its’ simplicity. Volumes have been written about the pro’s/cons of each. A review of the archives will prove fruitful and perhaps detrimental to the wallet. There you have it…may have to get more than one ;) Godspeed.</p>

<p>I too returned to film recently after a longish absence. I bought an assortment of Nikons to complement what I already had. I have a lot of AI and AIS lenses. I also have a D700. I gave myself a budget, which I've since violated, and sold some medium format equipment (and bought some medium format equipment) to fund some of my purchases, but I'll focus on the 35mm. I had several Fs (with FTn prisms), an FM2n, an FG and an N2000. I bought an F2a, an F3hp, an F4s, an F5, and a Nikomat EL (too cheap to pass up.) Then I bought an N90. I liked it so much I bought a second. Total investment: around $1000. I also bought a couple of AF lenses (since I had the AF cameras) and sold a couple of the AI/AIS lenses (mostly non-nikkors) but I also added a couple of non-nikkors (both AIS and AF, mostly ultra-wides which are just too expensive in Nikon glass.) Now I have too many cameras and a good assortment of lenses, with a little overlap in focal length but only a one or two real duplicates (50/1.4 in AIS and AF-D, for example.)<br>

Here's what I find. I use these cameras in this order of frequency:</p>

<ol>

<li>I use the two N90s most.</li>

<li>I use the F4s second most</li>

<li>After that, I use the F5, F3, FM2n and FG about the same amount</li>

</ol>

<p>Here are my general observations, which may or may not apply to others:</p>

<ol>

<li>The AF lenses only get used on the AF cameras</li>

<li>I use the AI and AIS lenses on both the AF and MF cameras</li>

<li>I use focus confirmation a lot when using MF lenses on AF bodies (my eyes aren't what they used to be) and that works well, both in terms of shooting convenience and results </li>

<li>All of the AF bodies also do some form of matrix metering with AF lenses.</li>

<li>Except for the F4, none of the AF bodies do matrix metering with MF (AI/AS) lenses. I don't miss it.</li>

<li>It's easier (for me) to add exposure compensation manually than to use AE and have to set it (and maybe forget to unset it.) In spite of that, I still use AE a lot more than I thought I would.</li>

<li>When exposure gets tricky (where center-weighted metering would fail) I find that I'm at least as smart as the Matrix metering, although it generally does a pretty good job. I tend to trust it when using AF lenses on the AF bodies, and apply exposure compensation myself when using MF lenses.</li>

<li>I tend to use program AE with AF and aperture priority with MF lenses, unless I'm shooting manual. I'm a careful shooter most of the time, not a banger, so I set up for shots and plan my exposure and composition. Your results will be different if this isn't you.</li>

<li>I was going to add an FA and FE or FE2 to my collection. Based on my experience, I find I have no reason to do that -- they wouldn't add anything of value to my armory.</li>

<li>I still have the Fs, F2a and F3 more for sentimental reasons that because they are of value. I'll probably use the FM2n more than any of them if I want to shoot manual.</li>

</ol>

<p>The point of all this is, if you want a "modern" film camera and an F100 or F4 is out of your price range, give serious consideration to an N90/F90 or an N90s/F90x. The last N90 I bought, a couple of weeks ago, cost me $16 on eBay (plus $10.95 shipping.) It had a sticky back, which took about 10 minutes with some isopropyl alcohol to clean off. Everything on it works great (except, oddly, the eyepiece shutter, which I never use anyway.) My 50/1.4 AF-D has found a more or less permanent home on it. In retrospect, I could have saved over $900 had I bought the N90 first (and had I been rational at all about these purchases) although I do like having -- and using -- the F4s and F5. I'll just take the N90 with me pretty much anywhere. It's smaller, lighter, and, perhaps most importantly, more expendable. I'm pretty sure if something happens to it, I can find another with a sticky back for about the same price.<br>

Ulysses</p>

 

<p>Wow, exhausting number of Nikons. Some of these Nikons are also a little on the "automatic" side too. If that's OK with you, there are some wonderful older EOS film cameras.<br>

You might want also to check out the Canon FD forum.</p>

<p>Also there are more than a couple M42x1 cameras that are just as worthy of attention as the Nikons and Canons. They also come in black. :)</p>

<p >Les, correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the ultra-pricey Nikon AS-17 (or equivalent SCA adapter) needed for TTL flash on the F3? I believe an SB or two, but not many, might also offer F3 TTL? I should also mention the 80^th sync speed of the F3 is very disappointing...but so many other redeeming qualities I enjoy.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Nice collection you’ve got there, esp F plain prism. Where’s the F2 love? Careful…AS, SB, T…black, of course! Enjoy.</p>

<p>Hello everyone!</p>

<p>Many thanks for your so helpful information!... You are giving to me lot of food for my brain :-) I need some time to process all information and I'll probably come with further questions...</p>

<p>At this point I have two more questions... First is regarding the ease to focus MF lenses... Which cameras from those already recommended are known as best for focusing in manual mode? Are they equal in this regard? Is there any helpful hint I need to know?</p>

<p>The second question is regarding scanners... I'm not sure if in my part of the world I can find easy professional film scanning services (I'll do some investigations... ) but I'm curious what other options I have apart Nikon Coolscan 5000 which is not so affordable... Please keep in mind that I'm interested only for B&W film and I do not wat to push down the quality... I only wonder if I can get high quality results for B&W films using some other affordable solutions.</p>

<p>@JDM von Weinberg: Thanks for suggesting other systems but definitely I'm not interested at this point... I want to put at work some nice AI and AIS lenses and I have a good number of them... I also have a good number of non G AF lenses and if by the way finally I will decide for something like N90s or F100 I can use all my glass with the film camera which is an advantage. To go for a dual system isn't something exciting at this point, even the new glass may be affordable... I have a storage problem at this point and I do not want to make it bigger. If by the way I'll be interested in another system I'll definitely go for some old Eastern Europe brands that are flying around overhere for a very convenient price (FED, ZORKI, KIEV, PRACTIKA, etc) </p>

<p>@Les: Well, at this point I have not a major preference between black an chrome, but I still have nice memories from a popular song in my high school time: "Black is Black!" I was totally ignorant in English language at that time and I'm sure that the song did not had any connection with the dark side of photography... but I still love the point wihout to make it conditional! So black would be nice!</p>

<p>A pro-level body (F, F2, F3, 4, 5, 6) is best suited for MF due to the big and bright finders providing 100% coverage. I can’t say I’ve seen an appreciable difference amongst the FM and FE family of finders. With the exception of extremely low light and assuming a split-image screen for standard shooting, I think you’ll do just fine with a body in the FE/FM family (Type K screen). If you intend to spend an abundance of film on non-standard subjects, the F3 offers nearly a couple dozen different screens for whatever need that may arise. Acquiring screens gets expensive. If you have a slew of 1.4 (or a couple 1.2) lenses and shoot at max ap in low light, a pro-level finder would be advantageous.<br>

<br>

You’ve not said much in the way of specific photographic interests. Review your needs and compare them with the features afforded by various bodies. An FE2 or FM3a would suit you well; great features in a modestly-sized body.</p>

<p>Mihai, the best viewfinders for manually focusing the lens are to be found on the F, F2, and F3 cameras. The F4 and F5 finders are also quite good, but to my eye, the F3 is the best of the bunch.</p>

<p>What about F100 when focusing manually? Is it good enough? </p>

<p>No any suggestion for B&W film scanners?</p>

<p>The viewfinder on F100 is just fine for MF; quite large, offers 96% coverage and bright...not a tremendous difference between it and the pro bodies. I use several 1.4 lenses at/near max ap with an F100 without difficulties. Some people rely on the focus-confirmation light in the viewfinder; others just use the screen. Can't help with scanner alternatives. I use a 5000 with great results.</p>

<p>For 35mm a Nikon 5000 is as good as it gets (in a non-absurd price range, that is). Works well for color and B&W.</p>

<p>BUT you can't find it new and the used prices are inflated by scarcity - used ones are selling for much more than new ones did. Personally I use a Minolta Dual IV I found on Craigslist for $75 and the results are excellent for color and B&W. Getting a deal that good is rare and requires a certain type of seller, but finding a good Minolta on the used market for under $200 isn't difficult.</p>

<p>As for the F100, I find it works well for MF. I have 35mm cameras with larger/better finders, but not by much.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>What about F100 when focusing manually? Is it good enough?</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Yes, it is quite good enough. I use my F100 with manual focus lenses all the time, but I find that I rely on the focus indicator once in a while. When I use the F3HP with an "E" screen, I don't miss the focus indicator. The F3HP is brighter to my eye, and that makes it better for me.</p>

<p>As far as scanners go, the Nikon Coolscan 5000 is what I use and recommend. Keep in mind that the dust reduction feature only works with c-41 or e-6 film, so your classic B&W films, when scanned, will show dust. I believe the Coolscan 5000 is out of production. Can anyone verify this - not by saying "Yes, it's discontinued" - with a web link?</p>