B&W coffee Processing

<p>Some where in the net a person processed a b/w film using coffee and so extra stuff and he had a good result, is this possible?</p>

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<p>I use a coffee developer all the time. I get great results.<br>

<br /><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5258/5459380744_b3c822a0fc_b.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>http://www.flickr.com/photos/jokerphotography/sets/72157625963460689/</p>

<p>It works. Check out <a href="http://caffenol.blogspot.com/">http://caffenol.blogspot.com/</a> for some good info.</p>

<p>With coffee prices up so much in the last year, I guess I'll stick with D76 & Rodinal :)</p>

<p>A bunch of Caffenol heads here too.<br>

http://www.flickr.com/groups/caffinol_private_palace/</p>

<p>If you would have done even a minimum amount of research before posting this thread, you would have had your answer. Did you google it before posting, obviously not. Did you use the search function before posting, nope. I put "coffee developer" in the search function and came up with over 10 pages of posts. Why don't you try answering your question before posting? </p>

<p>Allen, I did and found the link which I did post here, possibly you just rushed and did not check what I have posted, I just wanted to make sure that what I did find on the net is true and I am also a paid member and I do have the right to ask my friends.<br />you are shouting too loud, un necessary, Thank you.</p>

<p>Thank you dear Larry the result is amazing here and thats what I wanted really to know, thank yu a lot my friend and wishing you all of the best.</p>

<p>Thanks dear Micheal for posting the link, Larry’s example is great and very nice, no it is worth trying my friend.<br>

Your input is very much appreciated.</p>

<p>Stephen, it is easier than having the chemical ordered from a long way, these days also this sort of chemical not allowed to enter the country because of its environmental effect.<br>

Thank you my friend and wishing you all of the best.</p>

<p>Dear Larry I have shown your result to some of my friends here and they are surprised with the result and now some are into find more informations how to do this.</p>

<p>As you possibly know, technical informations are too hared for us to translate and also some times to find on the net because of our limited English, there fore thank you a lot and wishing you all of the best.</p>

<p>Hmmmm interesting....</p>

 

<p>Hmmmm interesting....</p>

 

<p>I was a skeptic too when I first heard of it.</p>

<p>Downside. Coffee developer stinks bad. LOl</p>

<p>I have heard that certain kinds of fertilizer can be used for fixer if it is unavailable locally. I believe you need fertilizer labeled as 12-0-0 or 12-0-0-26s.</p>

<p>For a workable home-made fixer, see this thread: http://www.flickr.com/groups/33051635@N00/discuss/72157627402494292/</p>

 

<p>I use coffe more and more these days, but as a general tip, try out caffenol-c-m with TMax 100 as a start, because if you use other films and other ASA ratings, you may need to start adding a restrainer (potassium bromide for example).<br>

Also, check out one of the first entries in the caffenol.blogspot.com blog for the "standard" caffenol-c-m recipe, this works like a charm on TMax 100.</p>

<p>Do NOT try to convert the formula into the typical American "teaspoon of this" "pinch of that", "a square foot-pound of those" etc etc...keep it in grams and liters and milliliters and it will work all the time, every time.<br>

Here are some photos from my recent caffenol attempt, as well as a few general notes about how I did mine:<br>

<a href="http://helino-photo.blogspot.com/2011/08/making-your-own-film-developer-from.html">http://helino-photo.blogspot.com/2011/08/making-your-own-film-developer-from.html</a></p>

<p>Rashed, http://caffenol.blogspot.com/ has as much as you'll need to get started, as others have said. I've got the cheap instant coffee, the Arm&Hammer Washing Soda*, and the pure Vitamin C. I just need the mojo to get on with the trial.<br>

A large pharmacy may have the pure C available. If not, Now Foods (www.nowfoods.com) can probably point you to a local source.<br>

The Arm&Hammer stuff needs to be baked to drive off the water, so that your weighing will be correct. Or, you may be able to get un-hydrated Na2CO3 from an online chemical supplier.<br>

Also mentioned above is the need for a restrainer (to avoid base fog, I think) for films above 100 ISO. I'm going to try iodized table salt instead of ordering bromide from one of the suppliers (Bostick, for example).<br>

It seems to be a very good family of developers, with some staining ability (like the gallic acid-type stuff) thanks apparently to the caffeic acid, which is in the phenol family.<br>

Do it, and post the results.</p>

<p>Rob Not all films stain in it. Also Iodized table salt has been tested and works well. There are a few threads on it on my link above. Choice of fixer also seems to keep stain down.</p>