B & J View Camera

B&J made a fair few of these. Most of the ones I've seen are painted a battleship gray color, although if you're so inclined the wood under the paint is usually decent.

I've seen the same basic model in 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10 although from what I've seen also the 5x7 seems the most common.

Mine is in 4x5 and came with a 7.5" f/4.5 Ilex Paragon in a No. 3 Acme Synchro Shutter. A 7.5" lens is on the longer end of normal in 4x5-it's been a nice portrait length lens for me. I THINK the lens is a Tessar design-it's perfectly fine especially when stopped down, but not jaw-dropping sharp.

The spring back on mine can be unlocked and rotated 90º. I find the focusing hood a bit annoying, and have considered cutting it off as I have trouble getting a loupe on the glass and there's no obvious way to remove it.

You are unlikely to find lens boards, but on the plus side they are a simple design and easy enough to make with a table saw and router. I scrounged up some hardware to mount a Pacemaker Graphic board on a board for this camera, but haven't actually made the board yet.

There's honestly not a lot to go wrong on these cameras. Check the bellows by turning off the lights in the room and popping a flash inside them. Any pinholes or such should be visible. It's a good idea to have the shutter serviced-I can't recommend anyone offhand, but it's easy enough to pull the board and drop it in the mail rather than trying to find someone locally.

Aside from that, these are basically just good affordable user-grade flatbed field cameras. They are a bit wobbly and can take some effort to get everything locked down just right, but can give results as good as any other camera. They do give a nice range of movements on both the front and back. Plus, they are lightweight and pack up fairly small for the type of camera they are.

I paid $200 for mine in 4x5, including the lens, from a local camera shop. Again, given that they're fairly common and not particularly collectible, I'd expect a 5x7 to be worth less given the cost and difficulty of shooting the format. I'd probably pay more for one in 8x10.

Ilex #3 Universal is the shutter, there is a trim ring next to the glass that has the lens type, focal length in millimeters, centameters, or inches and f stop.

There are a few B&J catalogs in the wayback archive Camera Eccentric: Info

or do a web search for Burke & James catalog.

The paint on the camera is lead based.

Test the 1 second and 1/2 second shutter speeds against a clock second hand, close the shutter is good to use, the further off it is the more it needs servicing.

It would be cool if you could post a couple of photos of the camera.

There is a way of using an app called "Audacity" to test shutter timing. There are YouTube vids on it. The app is an audio app (free) used for recording content but if you have any microphone you can plug into your computer you can use Audacity to "listen" to the sound your shutter makes and then you can easily measure the duration. It works fantastically on slow shutter speeds but looses its ability with higher speeds because the noise created by the shutter release mechanism is muddled into the actual noise the shutter makes when it opens and closes. This isn't the case in slower speeds up to 100th of a second.

Shutters on LF cameras are relatively easy to disassemble and service if you have experience with things such as pocket watches.

If you want to have a qualified tech look at it, try Koh's Camera in Bellmore. Jimmy is a Rollieflex trained tech and is very experienced with these types of shutters as well as SLR cameras. He is in semi retirement but is still open four or five days a week including Saturday. Where are you located?

Shutters on LF cameras are relatively easy to disassemble and service if you have experience with things such as pocket watches.

Just speaking for myself, I'd say it's somewhat of a different skill set. I can pretty well take most time-only watches apart and put them back together blindfolded(exaggerating a bit, but most American made watches have pretty much the same layout albeit with some quirks to specific makers and models). I can(grudgingly) do things like turn a balance staff from stock or make a "close" one fit and even pretty it up with things like oil grooves.

By contrast, I find most shutters tolerances and construction to be fairly sloppy compared to even relatively low grade watches. I've found that to be true of basically all the common shutter brands I've worked on-Compur, Copal, Graphex, etc. Things like the slow-speed escapement can be a nightmare. A few hundred hours hunched over a watch bench has made compulsive about taking apart moving parts before cleaning and oiling, but I've seen slow speed escapements that I was terrified to take apart.

There is a way of using an app called "Audacity" to test shutter timing. There are YouTube vids on it. The app is an audio app (free) used for recording content but if you have any microphone you can plug into your computer you can use Audacity to "listen" to the sound your shutter makes and then you can easily measure the duration. It works fantastically on slow shutter speeds but looses its ability with higher speeds because the noise created by the shutter release mechanism is muddled into the actual noise the shutter makes when it opens and closes. This isn't the case in slower speeds up to 100th of a second.

Using a microphone against the case is a crude, inaccurate attempt to test a shutter's speed. There is a similar app for iphones and the like.

I posted a light sensor approach a few years back but the redisign has left it buried in the archives and it no longer shows up in searches.

Graflex.org :: View topic - Shutter Speed Tester/Testing is the origonal thread, photo.net was the secondary post. Being Radio Shack is dying you may have to use an online electronics supply such as Mouser.com . Easy to build, very accurate.

Using a microphone against the case is a crude, inaccurate attempt to test a shutter's speed. There is a similar app for iphones and the like.

I agree. If I'm looking at a camera before buying, I'll listen to the speeds and see if they're in the ballpark, but, especially at slow speeds, it can be hard to hear the blades "click" open and closed over the escapement.

Measuring optically is, IMO, the way to go.

I have an ancient Calumet-branded tester that works with both FP and leaf shutters. It has a bit of a learning curve to use, but I trust the results from it. BTW, on LF lenses/shutters I generally just tape a piece of paper on the board with the actual speed vs. marked speed rather than trying to have them all be dead on. It's a bit more work, but at the same time I know what I'm actually getting. If I know I'm going to be shooting transparencies, I will usually test the speeds the day before and update them on my "cheat sheet" if they are appreciably different.

B&J called most of these in the 4x5 and 5x7 sizes "The Grover." I have had one of both. They are simple in design, and very retro with their grey paint and aluminum hardware. Very clunky, but functional. And indeed, they do clean up nicely. A bit of light stain and a tung oil finish and you have quite a winner. I used my 5x7 for HABS level architectural recordation--that was the NPS 'gold standard' of the time, contact printed on Azo paper.

Bet it has a red bellows? These can be had as custom replacement for a reasonable cost if yours is crisped out. Watch what you put into it though--they mostly sell for well under $200 in working condition with the old Rapax or similar shutters.

Here's mine in 4x5.

I do think that the gray paint makes these fly a bit "under the radar" and you really won't find another flatbed field camera for anywhere close to the same price. You also probably won't get the attention that a cherry and brass Tachihara gets when you're out in public, which to me is a good thing-I don't ever mind talking to people, but at the time time if I'm there with my LF gear I need to concentrate so that I don't do anything stupid.

To me, one of these in 5x7 would be a very attractive way to get into the format. Unfortunately, I've never had the desire. At least in the US it never gained the traction it did overseas. The film holders are scarce(I can buy 4x5s from the local shop all day for $5 each, or maybe less than that if I buy a bunch-5x7s aren't so common). The emulsion selection is limited as compared to 4x5 and it's also a fair bit more expensive. If you use commercial labs(I don't) most charge 8x10 rates for 5x7 since they can fit 4x4x5 in one hanger but need a single 8x10 hanger for 5x7.

Still, though, the image quality is certainly there with a lot more area than 4x5 and the cameras are not much bigger than 4x5s. . Still, I'd be more inclined to invest in 8x10 than 5x7

 

Measuring optically is, IMO, the way to go.

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Don't disagree with that approach if you have access to a light source, a sensor, and anything else needed. I was responding to someone suggesting using a second hand on a watch to measure the shutter speed at a second or so. At slow speeds Audacity is much more accurate than trying to physically synch up a shutter release with a moving second hand and then trying to mentally synch the closing of the shutter with the still moving second hand.

With respect to servicing a shutter, yes, they can be very complicated and intimidating. I was more referring to disassembly to the point where the shutter assembly could be chemically cleaned and lubed. As you probably are aware, lots of shutters are just dirty and require cleaning and oiling to be restored to satisfactory operation. If someone wants to go to a pro to have their servicing done, that's great because we need the pros around for when the DIYers get stumped.

As for wristwatches, I know my limitations and have put off buying a jeweler's lathe. I don't see myself operating at the level of precision needed to cut a staff from stock. Good for you that you have that skill. My main focus is resurrecting Hamilton Electrics and I have good results. They are probably the least accurate watch on the face of the earth but I love them; especially the 500 movement.

I've never owned a Hamilton Electric, but have admired them for a while. Renee Rondeau was a few tables down from me at a show a few years ago, and aside from chatting with him on and off I enjoyed seeing the dealer display of 500-series movements in lucite.

Renee has sold off most of his collection(and of course is a real loss to the Hamilton Electric guys now that he's no longer active) but I know he had some amazing pocket watches. He had a double digit Hamilton(#36 comes to mind) and a very nice Adams and Perry from what I recall.

In any case, I've been guilty of doing a "lighter fluid service" on shutters and cameras.

Don't disagree with that approach if you have access to a light source, a sensor, and anything else needed. I was responding to someone suggesting using a second hand on a watch to measure the shutter speed at a second or so. At slow speeds Audacity is much more accurate than trying to physically synch up a shutter release with a moving second hand and then trying to mentally synch the closing of the shutter with the still moving second hand.

I routinely sync with a second hand and time 1 second and 1/2 second shutter speeds. If I take the time to test with an optical test I'm off no more than .2 seconds on a 1 second speed.

Tolerance at these two speeds is 30% or 1/3 stop either side of the specified speed, for 1 second its.8 to 1.2 seconds ; for 1/2 second its .4 to .6 seconds. A sweep movement is much easier to use than a step movement. If the shutter closes with the second hand within the width of the second hand of the second mark after release then the speed is reasonably good, 1/2 the width of the second hand at the mid point between second marks from shutter release the 1/2 second speed is reasonably good.

This a a general quick test. A shutter in need of a CLA will run 1.5 seconds or more at 1 second, .75 second or more at 1/2 second which is easy to see. If the 1 second and 1/2 second speeds are off the other speeds will be off also.

The delay timer on a shutter uses gear travel and pallet tension to time the speeds. All speeds up to 1/125 second uses the delay mechanism to time the speeds with full gear travel and maximum pallet tension used for 1 second. Free travel of the blade controller and shutter blades as pulled closed by the main cocking lever and spring is between 1/125 and 1/250 second so speeds above 1/125 are accomplished by adding booster springs to force the controller/blades closed sooner. The blade controller moves about a 30° arc from full closed to full open.

I've never owned a Hamilton Electric, but have admired them for a while. Renee Rondeau was a few tables down from me at a show a few years ago, and aside from chatting with him on and off I enjoyed seeing the dealer display of 500-series movements in lucite.

 

Renee has sold off most of his collection(and of course is a real loss to the Hamilton Electric guys now that he's no longer active) but I know he had some amazing pocket watches. He had a double digit Hamilton(#36 comes to mind) and a very nice Adams and Perry from what I recall.

 

In any case, I've been guilty of doing a "lighter fluid service" on shutters and cameras.

I know we are getting far off topic but I just wanted to say that there is something satisfying about adjusting the trip and contact wires on a 500 movement and getting the movement to run within a second or two per day. Renee served the community well for many years. its too bad he had to make the decision to back away so soon. His books on Hamilton history are rich in company lore. If it wasn't for him, many Hamilton Electrics would be overlooked or undervalued.

Back on topic, I use electrical contact cleaner when bathing a shutter and have been happy with the results. Its not flammable and leaves nothing behind if used at room temperature.

A shutter in need of a CLA will run 1.5 seconds or more at 1 second, .75 second or more at 1/2 second which is easy to see. If the 1 second and 1/2 second speeds are off the other speeds will be off also.

I've observed the same behavior. As you mentioned, since the lower speeds are all related from a mechanical standpoint, if one is off, they all are. The good news is that improving one usually improves all.