AV-1 For Landscapes

Anyone here with experience using an AV-1 for landscapes? Nearly all of my images are landscapes. Last year I bought a mint condition FTBn. The 12% meter is best suited for subjects close up or with a small range of lighting conditions. That's exactly the wrong thing I needed but found out too late. I will sell it. Ken Oikawa did the CLA etc.. I have an A-1 which is fantastic for landscapes and does all that the AV-1 will do and much more. I'd still like to have a black AV-1 for it's simplicity. What's your experience?

Anyone here with experience using an AV-1 for landscapes? Nearly all of my images are landscapes. Last year I bought a mint condition FTBn. The 12% meter is best suited for subjects close up or with a small range of lighting conditions. That's exactly the wrong thing I needed but found out too late. I will sell it. Ken Oikawa did the CLA etc.. I have an A-1 which is fantastic for landscapes and does all that the AV-1 will do and much more. I'd still like to have a black AV-1 for it's simplicity. What's your experience?

I've never had an AV-1, nor have I ever used one (I sold a lot of cameras back then). If you have an FTBn and an A-1, I can't see the use for an AV-1. Simple, yes - versatile, no. My advice is to learn how to use the 12%. It is not that difficult. I had an FTBn and now have a couple of F1s, one with the 12% and the other with three metering modes. If you use your FTB for landscapes, meter off trees or the grass (or the back of your hand), not the sky. In point of fact, landscapes will be much better served with the 12% - not the averaging of the A-1 and AV-1. Also, if a camera is needed as a back-up, dead batteries in an A-1 and an AV-1 turn the camera into a dead brick. Dead battery in an FTB? No problem! Something to consider in cold weather. Long ago when our local football team (the Vikings) played outdoors, come the NFC championship game, along with my F1s I took along an AE1. The battery for the AE1 lost big time to the below freezing weather.

 

FTBs best suited for close-up??? Hardly. A small range of lighting conditions??? Just the opposite. Heck, If I have a wide range of lighting, I'll switch to a 3% spot every time.

 

OK, OK, I admit it, The Ftb is a pretty bad camera. I'll give you $25.00 for it as long as you pay postage. :-)

Edited February 8, 2022 by chuck909

I have most A-series Canon cameras, EXCEPT for the AV-1

I'm not at all sure why I omitted the AV-1.

 

They are very nice cameras, especially the A-1

 

e.g.,

Canon A-1 Canon A-1 - A-series "professional camera"

Canon AE-1P Canon AE-1 Program - The Old Regime with new tricks

Canon AL-1 Canon AL-1 “Quick Focus” — Another step toward the modern camera

The AV-1 does not have exposure compensation or exposure lock, and like the A-1, does not have a metered manual mode. An AV-1 would not be my cup of tea for landscapes or much else, and would prefer an A-1 or the New F-1 (or T90!). I don't share your opinion on the 12% meter of the FTB / F-1, especially for shooting color transparency film with its limited exposure tolerance, but every photographer is entitled to use the tools that they feel most comfortable with.

I will do a more in depth search on the Internet for tutorials using a 12% meter mode. Hopefully there will be one for landscapes. I hear what you all are saying but I need some more specific information on these techniques. I'm a fast learner.

This from the F1N manual

I did a quick on Youtube. Lots of videos on the subject. They focus on digital, but the same applies with film.

I had an AV-1 in the distant past. I bought it because I wanted a small, light portable Canon SLR that I could stick in a daypack. I took it to Spain back in 1995, where it worked just fine as a vacation camera. The AV-1 wouldn't be my first choice for landscapes. I'd use my F-1 for that.

Agree highly, Keep the FTb. An excellent camera which is well built, reliable, and not battery dependent. Learn to use it's meter for landscapes.

That camera is a beautiful time machine - mint condition and Oikawa'd. I will study all that applies (that's where I was all day today) and work with it. My landscapes are very important to me. BTW I only use black and white film.

BTW I only use black and white film.

 

All the more reason to keep the FTb

My landscapes are very important to me. BTW I only use black and white film.

 

PS - how are you set for filters? For B&W landscape you should have yellow, orange, red, and deep red. If I'm out doing B&W landscapes I always bring at least an orange. My go to brand is B+W.

Edited February 9, 2022 by chuck909

I have #8 and #15 yellows, an orange and a #25 red for all of my different lens sizes and formats. The #29 red is a bit too much for me but it's tempting. I have several B+Ws. Good filters won't spoil the ship for a ha pence of tar. I seldom make a landscape image without clouds so filters are de rigueur.

 

I have #8 and #15 yellows, an orange and a #25 red for all of my different lens sizes and formats. The #29 red is a bit too much for me but it's tempting. I have several B+Ws. Good filters won't spoil the ship for a ha pence of tar. I seldom make a landscape image without clouds so filters are de rigueur.

 

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A fan of Ansel Adams I suspect. That photo is a good example of where spot metering is good. I'd be using a 3% off the face of Half Dome.

PS - how are you set for filters? For B&W landscape you should have yellow, orange, red, and deep red. If I'm out doing B&W landscapes I always bring at least an orange. My go to brand is B+W.

And polarizers.

A fan of Ansel Adams I suspect.

 

AA is my hero. I am a BIG fan.

 

I took a roll of images with the FTBn today using many of the techniques suggested here and other places. Metering on the hand+1 was interesting. You'll get a report about the results after I develop the negatives. And yes, careful notes were taken. I enjoy the fact that the FTBn is all manual. It's a lot like using my much loved old Pentax Spotmatic that I purchased in Japan back in 1969.

And polarizers.

 

Yep. This one was with a CP filter.

 

Interesting - I have never used a PL filter with B&W. Yes, one is in my bag when I shoot color, but to tell the truth, other than reducing glare, why would you use one over a red or orange?

 

Here's one I took with a #29 red - not a great photo, but I took it just to see what the #29 would do

 

Edited February 10, 2022 by chuck909

why would you use one over a red or orange?

That was before I new about using colored filters sometime around 1980. Before 1977 I only used color film. A #15 or Orange is what I'd use now but Arches NP is way too crowded and we won't be going back.

Interesting - I have never used a PL filter with B&W. Yes, one is in my bag when I shoot color, but to tell the truth, other than reducing glare, why would you use one over a red or orange?

Because polarizers don’t change the wavelength of the light striking the film.

Because polarizers don’t change the wavelength of the light striking the film.

Obviously, but what is the practical difference? I can't see any advantage in that what-so-ever. Besides that, the PL is dependent on the angle from the sun.

Edited February 12, 2022 by chuck909

I can’t even tell you the last time I did landscapes WITHOUT a polarizer. It’s an essential tool for me.

I can’t even tell you the last time I did landscapes WITHOUT a polarizer. It’s an essential tool for me.

Interesting - good thing we don't all do things the same way. In truth, I'll use a PL for color landscapes but not all that often but with b&w for landscapes, if I don't have a #15 or #25 on the lens it's because I forgot it. Just for fun I'm going to run a comparison of PL v #15 and #25. You'll have to wait a while. (You might want to try the same)