jack_welsh Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 <p>Developed some Lith film using paper developer at 1:10 . The, dark areas came out spotty. (dark areas with many light spots) Any, suggestions?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhbebb Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 <p>Lith film is designed for development in lith developer - this gives so-called infectious development, whereby development activity simulates more activity, resulting in a negative which is either black or white with no mid tones. Kodak Ortholith 3 film could be persuaded via a huge increase in exposure and soft development to produce continuous-tone negatives, it sounds as if Arista Lith film won't play along (assuming of course that the print developer you used was well mixed and that agitation was given). You could try again with the same dev giving continuous agitation, this might work but I can't guarantee it.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 <p>The Kodak sheet for TP (Technical Pan film) gives contrast values for different developers.</p> <p>Next to hard-to-find Technidol, there is a high dilution of HC-110 which should give continuous tone at low EI values. </p> <p>That might be specific to the way TP works, but I would try much lower EI values and diluted HC-110. The high dilution is close to stand development, though the times aren't all that long. </p> <p>http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/p255/p255.pdf</p> <p>Try HC-110 in dilution F for, as they say, 6 to 12 minutes. You will have to find the appropriate EI for each time. </p> -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bethe_fisher Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 <p>I've used Arista Lith film in pinhole cameras a few times. The only light spots in the dark areas I've had were due to dust. Do you mean the areas that are dark on the neg? Or that would be dark when printed? Mine are fine either way except for dust (and I'm pretty sure it's dust, plenty of experience with dust, unfortunately). <br> I used Ilford MG paper developer mixed as for paper (1:9). I don't remember how long I developed for, though, but probably similar to RC paper - 1 minute. And a red safe light.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack_welsh Posted September 7, 2016 Author Share Posted September 7, 2016 <p>Thanks they are only on the dark areas of the neg, sky,etc. used Dektol.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhbebb Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 <p>Would be useful to see the "spots". Defects due to poor film coating or developer action are likely to be sharply defined small and perfectly round pinholes, dust marks are likely to vary more in size and may have the irregular shape of pieces of lint, spots in the sense of unsharp mainly circular areas of different density may well be due to film stored in damp conditions.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 <p>I have used Diafine at E.I. 3-12 with it and others. It gives you continuous tones in that range.<br> Don't use an acid stop. Use 3 water rinses and then the fixer. This will prevent pinholes in the thin emulsion.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murray_kelly Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 <p>I have read about Dave Soemarko LC-1 and LC-1B for continuous tone with lith film. An example is this thread<br> http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?43815-Soemarko-LC-1-Developer<br> My interest was in the high contrast slow films but never got around to trying it. It may help you in your quest!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack_welsh Posted October 12, 2016 Author Share Posted October 12, 2016 <p>thanks to those who responded. I miss the old Kodak So-015 copy film. Negative to negative.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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