are there different versions of the Synchro-Compur shutter?

I have a Rolleicord IV and also a V, and both have Synchro-Compur shutters. The V's shutter is harder to cock... are there different iterations of that shutter? I hope I don't have a problem shutter in the V. It does have a little more work to do, such as the EV scale and maybe that makes it harder to cock.

 

Thanks!

Compur « SKGrimes

 

Compur - Camera-wiki.org - The free camera encyclopedia

 

http://olympus.dementix.org/Hardware/PDFs/CompurShutter.pdf

 

Compur Shutter Repair Manual

Edited December 13, 2018 by paul ron

Paul,

 

Thank you... a most intensive list of sources to answer my question. After some study, I found that my Rolleicord V has a MXV Synchro-Compur whereas my Rolleicord IV has a MX. The serial numbers helped - the IV's serial # is 1386570 and the V's is 1527276. And, the V has a five blade aperture and the IV has ten. So yes there are different models of the Synchro-Compur.

 

So - now I'm wondering what specifically it is about the different model shutters that makes that the MXV harder to cock. The answer must be in those sources but it's probably not in my paygrade. I'm somewhat relieved that the V's shutter is ok, even though it's harder to cock. Would you know, perhaps?

 

BTW, I'm using a very useful app on my iPhone, called Shutter Speed, uploaded by a German guy. It shows both cameras' shutter speeds to be no more than 1/3 stop off, except for the highest speed which is 2/3 stop off.

 

Paul W.

it may be time to have it lubricated? thats the most common problem. after all, its an old well used camera with many more reliable years left. would it be with your money to have it serviced?

 

same camera of different age will have slightly different upgrades. sometimes the older model will have the better more durable parts. the company may have cut back on budget vs profits vs cost of materials or even availability.

 

as the digital dawn was happening, many camera companies trying to stay afloat started using more plastics, stamped steel instead of machined brass, cheaper n cheaper as they were dropping like flys. war also dictated how things were manufactured. when were those cameras built? remember, competion had a big influance as well.

 

no simple answers but im sure your rollies are still worth their weight in gold.

Edited December 14, 2018 by paul ron

Thanks for that suggestion, Paul, and it's a good one. I should have said this earlier, but my Rolleicord V did have a CLA by Harry Fleenor five years ago. I got that camera on eBay and a Fleenor CLA was a real selling point - Harry also installed a Maxwell screen. I figure it was built in the period 1953-57. No paint wear on the body corners, and spotless lens.

 

I do have another problem, which didn't show up until after the eBay return period... and that is that the back doesn't close. The "tab" in the body doesn't line up with the correct place on the back and the tab doesn't recess back into the body, If I position the tab to just a hair from normal and if I slide the back sideways another hair I can just barely get a good fit of the two. I may have posted this on photo.net or maybe it was somewhere else - I'll have to check. But wherever I posted it, no one was able to help.

 

I suppose this question might lead to some thread drift so I'd better quit.

 

Regards,

 

Paul W.

Edited December 14, 2018 by PaulWhiting

its common for tlr backs to get ever so slightly bent n miss align. if you post a picture id have a better idea what the cure may be? perhaps a gentle twist may be all it needs?

 

if you arent using the camera, it will seize the shutter. although its been claed recently, that shouldnt happen since we are now using more synthetic lubes that shouldnt gunk up as fast.

 

but oxidation in the works depends on how it was stored. try to use the camera now n again to excersize the shutter n works. putting in the sun to warm it up then giving a good workout can help losen old crud too.

(Thanks for sticking with me, Paul, I do appreciated it!)

 

Here are three photos... the first one does show a bend in the back and the second shows a "tab" in the camera body that gets pushed down as the back is closed. Finally, the third one has some text but it's not quite correct. It should say "... where the tab should make contact, but doesn't", Instead the tab falls into the empty space between the film choice back and the light trap ridge.

 

Sorry Paul, I had trouble uploading my 2nd and 3rd photos. I'll shut down and start over.

Another mistake on my photos... the first one is way too large, I meant to attach my cropped and smaller (less than 800 pixels wide) version. I'm surprised the large version was accepted. I don't upload photos here very often.

Another mistake on my part. My first photo is way too large, I meant to upload a smaller and cropped version, less than 800 pixels wide like the others. I'm surprised the large one was accepted. I don't post photos here very often.

when the door closes... the 3rd picture shows the part that is suposed to push that tab down?

 

sounds like a bent door. if you try bending the door ever so slightly, can you get it to align? can that part that pushes the tab be bent or moved? is the tab bent?

 

sometimes these doors bend out of alignment by accident when loading film or just laying the camera on an open door. ive repaired so many of these by just a twist ot reverse bending it.

 

look closely as you close the door to see whats what?

dam edit time out!

 

does the door align properly as it is? maybe that section of the body needs to be bent in a smigon?

To your first question, yes, that part of the back (I just noticed you call this part of the camera the "door" - I think your word is better!) is supposed to push the tab down. You'll note too this section of the back's ridge's is a bit higher - see the 3rd photo. But as I observe closely, and I slowly push the back down, I watch how the tab misses that high section and slides right off into the space just before the movable pressure plate (the plate you move to set the film to 120 or 35mm). In fact, look at the worn off paint in that area... the position of that bare spot tells me it's worn from the tab sliding off into that empty space, making no contact with the thicker portion of the ridge.

 

I just now looked at that high spot in my older Rollei IV, and the worn off paint is even across the whole surface. This indicates good contact for the tab. And my Rollei IV closes easily.

 

I have the CLA job sheet and it mentions removing a dent in the back. I never saw the camera before the repair but I'm curious what that dent looked like. To your second question, I'm afraid to try bending the back... and no, the part that pushes the tab cannot be moved or bent, as far as I can tell. Likewise for the tab... looks straight to me. I tried bending it but again, didn't want to try too hard.

 

These observations apply to your other questions also. There is some play in the back, from side to side, and the tab has some play as well. I can make contact between the tab and back's ridge by taking advantage of each part's play. I slide the back away from the trouble area and at the same time move the tab in the opposite direction and carefully ease the back shut. Not much contact, mind you, but enough to push the tab down. I'd be happier if the back hit the tab straight on.

 

I'm a little afraid to try bending the back (door!) - actually I can see where it would indeed be a bend in more of a twisting motion, as you suggest.

 

(Do you know how to remove a repeated post?)

 

Thanks,

 

Paul

Edited December 18, 2018 by PaulWhiting

I think your most recent post was sent as I was working on my longer one!

 

The door looks at first glance to be aligned, but you'll note a slight "hump" in the first photo. But it's a vertical hump, doesn't look like it would affect a side to side problem - which is what mine is (I think).