Apo-Gerogon 300/9 , which shutter ??

Discussion in 'Large Format' started by janvanhove, Jul 26, 2004.

  1. Hi,

    Just wanted to make sure...
    I just got my hands on a 300/9 Rodenstock Apo-gerogon graphic arts lens, in barrel, and i
    heard somewhere that this lens can screw in directly in a copal 3 shutter...

    Am I right or just completely out of my mind ?

  2. Probably best to check with SK Grimes (http://www.skgrimes.com). Their list has the 360mm f/11 APO Geragon being fitted into a Copal #1, so I'm guessing that the 300 wouldn't need or fit a Copal #3.
  3. The Gerogon's are excellent but unfortunately they don't take to any shutter easily. Get youself some Efke 25 film and use the lens cap. Or investigate Packard shutters. I find them very easy to use for LF where "normal" exposure times hover in the 1/4 to 1/2 second range. That 300 should cover 11X14 with room to spare.
  4. Second Brewster's motion, check with skgrimes.

    And I agree with Jim too.

    I once had a 210/9 ApoGerogon. One cell, the front if I recall correctly, was threaded 40x0.75, went right into a #1. The rear cell was too large to go into the rear of a #1. Or perhaps it was the other way 'round. Point is, one cell would go into the shutter, the other wouldn't. Not fun.

    If you need short timed exposures, front mounting on a big Ilex is an option. When in doubt, ISO 100 or slower film.


  5. Hi,

    just in case you have the CL-version of the Apo-Gerogon 9/300, then front and rear cells may be screwed direct into a Copal 3 shutter. The rear cell has two threads, the smaller one will do. Overall length of the lens may be a tad longer than in repro application barrel , but with a symmetrical lens this need not be undesirable for infinity applications, at least it works more than reasonably.

    Best regards

  6. thanks for the answers !

    I mailed SKgrimes, and basically the answer was : we are not familiar with that particular
    From your answers, i gather that the best way to go will be a packard shutter, and i'll first
    try the "drop shutter" option (basically a board with a hole that is dropped in front of the
    lens, not very precise, but moreso than lenscap shutter...

    I'll keep you posted on my solution...


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