Aperture Priority or Manual?

<p>Over the past 2 years I have moved to more manual settings rather than using the aperture priority during my weddings. I would say I am about 50% Aperture Priority and 50% Manual, and my question is do I slowing things down by going with manual settings? I do spend a little bit of time metering and getting the right settings, but I find I get better results when I shoot in manual mode VS Aperture prioity.<br>

How often do you use manual setings vs aperture priority/shutter priority?</p>

<p>manual only :: 100%</p>

<p>It depends on what's changing from one shot to the next. Is lighting changing? Is subject reflectance changing (like switching between having a white dress occupying much of the frame to having a black tux occupying much of the frame)?</p>

<p>If neither is changing, then any mode works fine, and it really doesn't matter. If the lighting is changing but subject reflectance is constant, then auto exposure is wonderful. If subject reflectance is changing but lighting is staying constant, then manual exposure is wonderful, because you can set it once and forget it, whereas autoexposure would require adjustment of exposure compensation to compensate for varying subject reflectance.</p>

<p>In the real world, both factors will eventually change. So the really most important thing is that you always be aware of which mode your camera is in, and how you've got exposure compensation set if it's non-zero. So develop some sort of system and stick to it, and periodically double check your camera's settings. In some ways, it was easier back in the days when all cameras were fully manual, not because manual exposure is inherently better, but simply because in the days before autoexposure came around, you <em>never</em> forgot what mode your camera was in!</p>

<p>If you're in manual mode when the sun passes behind a cloud, and you absent-mindedly think your autoexposure is going to catch it and make the adjustment, you'll have a problem. Or if you just used autoexposure for a bride photo and dialed in +1.5 stops to make that dress white, then you'd better remember to readjust exposure compensation when you shoot those black tuxes on the next shot of a bunch of groomsmen.</p>

<p>Richard,</p>

<p>I think my question is I have to constantly change settings while shooting in manual slowing down my flow or is this normal for most manual shooters. I feel I get a little obsessed with settings while I'm shooting manual, but that may be the nature of the beast.</p>

<p>"do I slowing things down by going with manual settings? I do spend a little bit of time metering and getting the right settings, but I find I get better results when I shoot in manual mode "--- <br>

<strong><br /> </strong><br>

<strong>.........quality vs speed</strong> ~! I still use a hand meter :[)</p>

<p>Most of the time I'm shooting in manual, when lighting is changing quickly I'll often move to P mode.....shutter priority occasionally and rarely aperture priority. Between chimping and using the histogram, the process has become uber-easy with digital. The only time I'm pulling out my meter any more is to check my ratios for my studio lights.</p>

<p>Shooting manual only slows you down if you are not sure where to put the settings. If the light is changing constantly, you most certainly will be slowed down unless you know what settings to use to follow the changing light. For instance, if a session has 'static' lighting, I use manual--either I know what the settings are without metering, or I meter. When in bright sun, I don't need to meter.</p>

<p>When I have changing light but the changes are the same, such as bright sun to cloudy bright to bright sun and back again, I meter for the cloudy bright (I know the bright sun exposure), and I change accordingly, usually using aperture as the crux of the change.</p>

<p>If I have fast and unpredictable action with the subject going in and out of changing light, I use aperture or shutter priority, whichever is appropriate. There is no way I could even think and move as fast as is required to keep up with that kind of action, particularly when I need to concentrate on where I have to move to next to catch the action, or try to anticipate the subject's next move. This is where you need to be familiar enough with your camera meter's response that you can pretty much work the compensations accordingly.</p>

<p>When I am inside using flash, I am using manual, to conrol shutter drag and the ratio between ambient and flash EV.</p>

<p>I use manual 100%.<br>

Before each sitting or after any change, I'll check my meter, adjust, shoot, check the histogram, then adjust if necessary before continuing.<br>

I just want as much control as possible. If the camera is making the decisions, all I'm doing is composing the shot and that's not all I'm being paid to do. I know Joe McNally and a lot of other big name guys are having the camera make shutter speed decisions, or aperture width decisions, but they can afford to. I wanna be able to take full credit for my images however humble they may be.</p>

<p>All of my strobed shots are in manual, with rare exception. If I'm in one room with constant lighting, I've generally taken to shooting manual, unless I feel there is a compelling reason that would keep me from accurately exposing an important series of images if I stayed in M.<br>

When shooting available light I'll drop into usually aperture priority, or shutter priority every now and then.<br>

Outdoors I might even move to program and just adjust exposure compensation. Unless I'm using a strobe, in which case I move to shutter priority.<br>

Everything is where I need it - since the settings for each mode stay the same, I can change my game quickly and usually be on top of the exposure no matter which mode I pick. As long as I've 2x checked my settings in each new scenario, that is.<br>

<br /> C Jo - I agree with your summary of quality vs speed. I do challenge the concept of 'quality,' as implied here though. Without speed, or at least a quick eye and good reflexes, it's hard to consistently capture emotional moments while working a wedding. I would much rather capture a technically flawed image that makes people gasp, or smile, or laugh, or cry, than get a well-exposed but boring capture five seconds too late.</p>

 

<p>Manual indoors with flash. </p>

<p>Aperture Preferred outdoors in most cases. I sometimes use AE lock in changing conditions by metering a mid-tone area and locking it.</p>

<p>I hectic conditions, where I am not trying to create a shallow depth-of-field, I will occasionally resort to Program (modern cameras are pretty smart at figuring out complex settings in a nano second). </p>

 

<p>I use AP 50% of the time, TV 30% and M 20%. I use a different setting at each location and its the same at every wedding.</p>

<p>Me and My S5Pro:<br>

Programs:<br>

50% M<br>

25% A<br>

25% P</p>

<p>ISO:<br>

75% MANUAL<br>

25% AUTO</p>

<p>I use full Program mode mostly, letting the camera decide a balance of shutter speed and aperture, sometimes dialing in exposure compensation. I use Manual when I want to standardize exposure, or am struggling with difficult light, say subjects in front of bright window. I use Aperture or Shutter priority mode very rarely, <em><strong>if</strong></em> I happen to want some specific ap. or sh. speed.</p>

<p>Another factor to bear in mind is that the exposure in non-Manual modes will change, even in the exact same lighting, as you zoom in and out (unless you are photographing a monotone wall, for example). Thus it is better to shoot manual to guarantee consistent exposures and easier/quicker post processing. I always use manual indoors, and a mixture of manual/Av outdoors.</p>

<p>This is always a good topic. Av for me unless I'm using flash, then it's manual.<br>

But with no flash and indoors, I find full manual mode time consuming and depending on where I meter, I'm constantly riding all the controls until I find the right exposure. I haven't quite mastered full manual and maybe the following is similar to what the OP is talking about in that mode:</p>

<p>1.) I set ISO to the lowest value I "think" I can get away with.<br>

2.) Dial in the right exposure with forefinger.<br>

3.) Shutter speed too low - open aperture by a full stop with thumb.<br>

4.) Repeat step #2.<br>

5.) Shutter speed still too low and I'm out of Av stops - increase ISO. Push button, move forefinger to dial.<br>

6.) Back to step #2.<br>

7.) Repeat step #5.<br>

8.) Take the shot.</p>

<p>This process can take me up to 8 seconds to get right which is fine if you have the time. I think I'm too hung up on the ISO value and constantly tweak it. I know most everybody sets theirs once and forgets it but I'll take ISO 1200 over 1600+ any day if I can. Without using flash on a slow lens (f/2.8 and even f/1.8) and no IS, a shutter speed of 100-125 is pretty hard for me to get so I usually end up with an ISO of 1600 anyway. :)</p>

<p>During creative moments, I just want a nice blurry background with a well exposed and sharp foreground. Av allows thiss more easily than any other mode for me. I just can't imagine doing the manual steps above for something like a, "first kiss" with no time to chimp. I also find that sometimes you just need the shot so if DOF isn't an issue then "P" pretty much does it all.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>100% manual. The time you loose while shooting will be returned with interest in post production.</p>

<p>RT--I use a hand held incident meter, and meter once without chimping. It takes very little time, contrary to what people think. This is becaise I know where to meter and know how I may keep or modify the resulting information before even shooting. I've done it this way for years. You can streamline your metering with the camera meter, perhaps, by doing the same thing--know where to meter and what to do with the resulting information without all the experimenting. Or use a gray card or find values similar to a gray card in the surroundings. Or use skin tone or some other reference value.</p>

<p>I think the question that RT and Nadine brings up is very interesting and deserves it's on thread - "How to shoot fast in manual mode".</p>

<p><strong><em>RT--I use a hand held incident meter</em></strong></p>

<p>Hi Nadine. I researched incident meters a while back but admittedly have never used one. I always wondered how accurate they are under the changing light conditions that can crop up throughout a ceremony. Recently, I shot in a venue with nice big skylights but when clouds decided to roll in during the ring exchange I lost 2 stops of light I think. Or there are times when the couple moves from, "center stage" under nice soffit lighting to somewhere in the shadows to light a unity candle or pour sand. I would rather develop metering skills using with what I have in my hands and apply that from where I'm currently standing.</p>

<p>Like I said, I don't think I'd have a problem getting the right creative exposure I want in full manual mode during low light conditions (eventually) - I just find fumbling in this mode too slow during the ceremony and I don't trust my fingers to move fast enough, "on the fly". I'm always awestruck by the, "100% manual" shooters I encounter who seem to just walk into a room, stick a wet finger in the air and their settings are done.</p>

<p>Just before the ceremony starts, I usually walk to the altar area and meter various points--in the shadows, in the spotlight, etc. Then, during the ceremony, I use the settings appropriately. This method can be applied to the whole event. Whenever you get to a new location, do a walkaround with your meter and then shoot.</p>

<p>If I don't do the above, I use aperture or shutter priority while working the comp dial or ISO control. I have a preset on my camera set for no flash, ISO 1600, 1/80th shutter priority. Many times, I just use the preset and dial in whatever shutter speed I might need, based on what lens I have on the camera and just go from there with the compensation dial.</p>

<p>I am not advocating a hand held incident meter. I only use one because I'm used to it, and I fumble if I have to use the camera meter the same way, although I have used a gray card with it that way. It's just faster for me.</p>

<p>I pretty much stick to manual all the time, except when using flash, then I let my trusty Sunpak 544 do the work.<br>

In many ceremonies, flash is not permitted so as not to detract from it, so it is beneficial to use a hand meter indoors and if your camera has the ability, set your white balance using a gray card.</p>

<p>MANUAL and MANUAL in 99 percent. Even AF, only 2-4 percent of the time. I'm not a "Point and Shoot"-er. I figured, I can adjust camera setting faster in MANUAL mode ( 40 year practice) in critical lighting situation, then in automatic setting and fiddle with different compensation settings, buttons etc. My light-meter showing everything what I need. Including over or under exposure if it is required. Most of the time "Center Weighted' metering system, critical situation, Spot Metering.</p>

<p>For some reason -- in my general shooting venues & years of experience .....the exposures seem to be always about the same 4 settings ?? > Pre shots ~ Church ~ Cocktail ~ Reception ........ Not much guess work --- </p>

<p>I used auto for the first few weddings (learning from a guy that always uses auto, thank goodness for this site). Then after some experience I started using aperture priority. Now, with more experience, I just don't trust the camera, and am going to use manual the majority of the time. In my downtime, I'm shooting everything manual to get fast at it.</p>

<p>I have a follow-up question for all you pros. During a typical wedding, how often do you end up changing your settings on manual? Also, when you make minor adjustments, which setting do you typically set?</p>

<p>100% manual, and with the expsoure latitude of print film, it really doesn't matter if I'm a stop or two off (when capturing the moment is more important). i usually overexpose by a full stop for weddings.</p>