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Anyone have a time for FP4 in Rodinal 1:50?


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Rich is correct. The difference in times is due to a difference in film speed.

 

FP4+ Rodinal 1+50 100 12 20C

FP4+ Rodinal 1+50 125 15 15 15 20C

FP4+ Rodinal 1+50 200 20 20 20 20C

 

Personally, I like the results for the 125 listing above (15 mins @ 20C), but I most often use a 1:100 or 1:200 dilution.

 

- Randy

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Well, that didn't exactly work the way I wanted. Let's try this

<BR><BR>

Rich is correct. The difference in times is due to a difference in film speed.

<BR><BR>

FP4+ (asa 100) Rodinal 1+50 12mins@20C

<BR><BR>

FP4+ (asa 125) Rodinal 1+50 15mins@20C

<BR><BR>

FP4+ (asa200) Rodinal 1+50 20mins@20C

<BR><BR>

Personally, I like the results for the 125 listing above (15 mins @ 20C), but I most often use a 1:100 or 1:200 dilution.

<BR><BR>

- Randy

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So we seem to have conflicting times. I'm going to start rating it at 125. and i'm going to run a film speed test to find my best personal EI. So basically I'm rating it normally. The difference between 9min and 15min seems huge. Maybe it's all in the way we shake the can. I'm agitating first the first minute, and then 10 sec once every minute.
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To fill in a bit that I should have provided in my previous post, I always start at 125 and adjust for lighting conditions. In this instance I recommended 15 minutes at a film speed of 125, which I should have mentioned meant that is where I start from. If the light is flat, I use the box speed, if there are more than pale shadows I cut film speed by 1 stop, if the shadows are harsh I cut film speed by 1.3 stops. Development times are treated in a similar manner: flat light gets the full time for 125, i.e. 15 minutes, for film exposed at -1 stop I cut %25 of the time from the base, or ~11.25 minutes in this instance, and for harsh light I cut by %33, or ~10 minutes. If the light varies over the roll, I just use the values for the harshest light...

 

Agitation is a variable just like development time or developer choice. I typicaly agitate 5 times per minute, gently turning the tank while inverting, unless I am doing stand development (1:200). More agitation typicaly means more development and higher contrast.

 

I've not seen consistent results always using one film speed for all lighting conditions, but everyone has their own philosophy on this matter. My negatives almost always come out well printed with a 2.5 filter unless there is a great range of lighting conditions on one roll (not often), in which case I find that I get results that range from a #2 up to a #3 filter.

 

As with all information, use your best judgement. It is always advisable to run your own tests, as you have mentioned here, and to take careful notes. Change one value at a time or you will not be able to be certain which change had which effect on the end results. Lastly, always have fun!

 

- Randy

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Although lately I've been preferring FP4+ in D-76 or Xtol when I have used it with Rodinal I got very nice results at 1:50 at 20C for 16 minutes @125. One thing to keep in mind is I develop for scanning not traditional darkroom enlarger prints so that might make some difference as to the kind of neg you desire. Some of my examples of this combo can be seen here:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=52581201&size=o

 

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=90231852&size=o

 

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=90231870&size=o

 

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=90232019&size=o

 

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=90231974&size=o

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