Any Other Nikonians Shoot In Manual Mode?

<p>I'm in M mode permanently, mostly because "that's what's taught in class". I also love the synergy with the camera and the full control that no other mode provides.</p>

<p>However I get the sense few others feel this way. I've also been ridiculed for not embracing the quickness of Aperture Priority.</p>

<p>Do you think there are any real benefits to chalking up experience in M mode? Or is it merely a learning tool that acquaints newbies with the buttons and wheels on a body?</p>

<p>Thanks,</p>

<p>Cal</p>

<p>I use it when it's helpful to have that much control, and I switch to an automated mode (like AP) when I think I'll benefit from having the camera help me keep up with rapidly changing lighting conditions. I use what gets the job done the most effectively. Sometimes that's manual exposure control, sometimes it's AP or SP, sometimes it's auto ISO, and sometimes it's cruise-control full [P]rogram auto mode, because I'm just grabbing a snapshot, and it works.</p>

<p><em>You</em> use P mode, Matt? Now I've seen it all.</p>

<p>guess in theory i agree with matt. in practice though, less than 1/1000th of what i shoot is done with anything other than M. i should add though, that i rarely shoot anything that can be classified as <em>action</em> , so normally i have the luxury of being able to adjust my settings and take another shot should i need it.</p>

<p>what's a nikonian btw?</p>

<p>For awhile with my D2x (I've been shooting a lot of film lately) I was heavily into using Center Weighted Metering in Manual mode. In reality I was sort of using it in A mode while manually choosing the shutter speed. It became quite intuitive to point the camera something and make a decision as to how light or dark you want it.</p>

<p>Even in A mode I've found that I prefer Center metering with that camera.</p>

<p>All right, high five, Thorir!</p>

<p>When I used to shoot slides with my FE2, I always shot in manual mode. I would judge the scene and knowing my cameras metering, let it over or under expose as necessary and go from there. When I got into AF bodies like the N70 and the F100, I found the metering was so accurate that I didn't need to do that anymore. Then when shooting in P mode with my Nikon Coolpix 990, I noticed that the photos I took of the white curving front superstructure of the Queen Mary in Long Beach, California were a little underexposed, I remembered that the meter always sees in middle grey.<br>

With my D200 I usually get good exposures, that is after I learned that it needs a permanent +0.3 EV adjustment with Matrix metering. I prefer Matrix metering most of the time, and use the camera in Aperture priority mode with Auto ISO to ensure I never have to hand hold the camera at a slower shutter speed than 1/30 second. This works for me most of the time. I don't find the small meter display in the D200 viewfinder useful enough to shoot in manual. If there was a way to display it larger when in manual mode that would be really nice and I might use it.</p>

<p>I mentioned in another thread that I recently started using M mode with auto-ISO to help put a soft Bigma @ 500mm in its sweet zone at f8-11. I adjust aperture between the ranges mentioned and play with shutter speed to keep actual ISO under my "minimum acceptable," and I've managed to get sharper shots. Don't have anything to attach here at work, but it would just be reduced resolution anyway... Anyway, it's a good trick, and one hinted at here by a very well meaning pro in response to my declaration the lens was just soft. </p>

<p>Both my FM2n's must be missing the non-manual options... ;)</p>

<p>Seriously, on the D300 I typically shoot street and action (sports etc) and rarely shoot in manual unless it's a tripod shot. Then I spend much time with histrograms and manual shooting and even manual focusing.</p>

<p>It depends on what you shoot with and what subject you shoot I'd guess. At the end of the day, just because I shoot in aperture priority doesn't mean I don't have input or that I'm letting the camera take full control. I just have a starting point set on the metering the unit provides. Having an onboard "computer' doesn't mean I turn off my brain.</p>

<p>The very best pics I ever get are done in manual with an incident light meter or sunny 16. I also set the WB to Sun unless I am where I can identify another source like tungsten or cloudy overcast. Almost never use auto WB. I have a full set of nearly new auto focus lenses that live in a drawer. Basically I use Ai`ed original Nikkors or Ai Nikkors on a D700 or D200. The zooms live right next to them in the drawer.<br>

My three favorite lenses are an original 35 2.0, 50 2.0 Nikor H, Zeiss Sonar derivitive, and 105 2.5 first version, also Sonar derivitive. Next come the 18 3.5 135 2.8 200 4.0 24 2.8 <br>

I have to admit I was doing a grand kids little league with the sun in and out of clouds, I went to A.</p>

<p>I shoot everything on M, even action. I learned that way on an old Pentax K1000 (the pre-nikon student days) so just having auto focus is a boon to me. It isn't that I wouldn't use the other modes, I just am so accustomed to using manual controls that I never think to change it. Now lately I have been shooting lots of wildlife and have found it helpful to leave my D200 on the continuous high speed setting so that I can catch any action in quick bursts. It ony fires continuously if the shutter button is held down after tripping the shutter. Otherwise it takes single shots. </p>

<p>I think that photographers should learn to shoot effortlessly in manual mode just for a better understanding of the photographic process, but once an understanding of the camera and process is reached it doesn't really matter which mode is used. Like Matt said, just use what gets the job done in an effective manner. </p>

<p>Calvin: My ratio of P shots to A/S/M shots is probably 1 to 500, because I almost always have (and take) the time to consider what will serve me best. But when I reach in the bag and grab the camera body, it comes out at ISO 400 and P. It almost always changes from there... but once in a while, I'm shooting something as fast as I can lose the lens cap. You never know.<br /><br />I also leave the camera in that state because my wife (her motto: "Can you just put the damn thing in Make It Work Priority mode, please?") may reach for the camera to grab a reference shot or something.<br /><br />I was glad for automated exposure when I fished my camera out of the bag in the back seath, leaned out the truck window, and had all of about a second and a half for this shot before the fun was over:<br /><img src="http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00S/00S2wU-104305884.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="467" /><br /></p>

<p >Manual exposure and spot-metering in challenging light is a frequent and educational exercise, though I don't restrict myself to 'spot'. The benefit is knowledge and the ability to 'properly' expose a scene on the first take when a second chance is difficult/impossible. But I'm usually using center-weight in M mode, harkening back to the days of F2, FM, FE2, etc. Manual exp mode is especially conducive to proper light-balance when using a flash. If using aperture priority and flash I find I’m regularly adjusting exposure compensation. Instead I simply opt for manual exp mode. Yes, huge proponent of manual exp mode here.</p>

<p>Any advantages to manual focus, Bj?</p>

<p>I use <em>Aperture</em> mode most of the time for simplicity. The only other mode I use is manual mode. I primarily use it when I am spot metering for a back light shot or something like that. It seems everyone has their preference for general photography. I would say I probably shoot Aperture mode 70% of the time and the rest in manual.</p>

<p>I shoot in manual mode essentially 100% of the time, but I have found that I frequently will use auto ISO and auto WB. This is on a D700. On my D200, I did not use auto ISO or auto WB. Not sure I know why, but I feel like I have better control.. I also use spot focus mostly. </p>

<p>I shoot in manual mode essentially 100% of the time, but I have found that I frequently will use auto ISO and auto WB. This is on a D700. On my D200, I did not use auto ISO or auto WB. Not sure I know why, but I feel like I have better control.. I also use spot focus mostly. </p>

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<p>Any advantages to manual focus, Bj?</p>

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<p>For me, I like manual focus with a proper focus screen (i.e. like a FM2). But on the digital body I only use if I really want to override the focus. Macro and very low light. Otherwise I find manual focussing annoying on the digital units :)</p>

<p>Generally the D300 has great focusing capabilities, so it's rare that I take over.</p>

<p>Geez, you like your primes, tobey.</p>

<p>Manual mode for exposure and WB, Autofocus for sports and (rock/pop-) concerts and some wide-angle-shots (manual focusing the 14-24 is troublesome for me). I shoot a lot with ancient Ai or Ai-ed Nikkors and love the long focus-throw of the oldies.</p>

<p>I do use M when doing stuff like macros, where I have plenty of time to even use an external meter and careful control of exposure is necessary. Most of my shooting happens in A mode, but e.g. with stage performances where the subject may be lit several stops different from the background M mode is convenient.<br>

I never do S or P mode, but that's partially because I frequently use AI lenses. Auto ISO is kinda neat, though.</p>

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<p>Any advantages to manual focus, Bj?</p>

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<p>If you pre-focus at a spot where action takes place, you can set it in manual mode, thus locking it, so when you press the shutter release it will not change the focus.</p>

<p>I like to use AI and AIS Nikkors on my D40 for static subjects. Nice to simply rotate the aperture ring to increase or decrease exposure without pushing a button and turning the little wheel while watching the LCD. I also use it for panoramas so the exposures are consistent across each sectional image. </p>

<p>There's a very similar discussion happening on the Street & Documentary forum: http://www.photo.net/street-documentary-photography-forum/00TWEv</p>

<p>I won't repeat everything I wrote there (if you're interested just follow the link), but in short I too use Manual mode the vast majority of the time, but recognize the usefulness of P, S and A modes (for me these particularly shine in certain street photography situations). As Matt Laur pointed out, there's experiences in life that won't wait the extra second or two it takes to change the settings in Manual Mode.</p>

<p>Nikonista. The term is <em><strong>Nikonista</strong> </em> . Canonites and Nikonistas. Besides belonging to another website (a perfectly good one, BTW), Nikonians does not sufficiently convey the passion of quasi-religious, revolutionary political fervor.</p>

<p>I use whatever metering mode and exposure mode is appropriate for the situation. Slavish adherence to any one style will result in missed action shots when programmed or other mode would have been quicker, and photos have been spoiled by using AE or the wrong metering mode when there was no rush.</p>