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Any Hasselblad Lens alternatives?


kadir_kirisci

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<p>Hello,<br /> Recently I traded my Nikon Fm2 body for a Hasselblad 500 C with everything except a lens.</p>

<p>Hassey was something I really wanted to have for almost 10 years, and I'm only 22 years old.</p>

<p>I was looking at online stores for used Hasselblad lenses but they are little expensive for my budget. I don't want to sell my nikon lenses to get a hasselblad lens.<br /> <br />So I was wondering if there are lens alternatives for Hassel? Russian made, German made or African made I really don't care at this point. I just don't want to pay +250 dollars for a lens. Buying a lens for that camera and using a adapter to convert it to a hassel isn't a problem either. If possible of course </p>

<p>On my mamiya Rb and m645 I mainly use 60, 70, 80 and 90mm. <br /><br />Any help will be appreciated. <br />thank you</p>

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<p>I'm afraid that you have only half committed to what you wish to do. To get into Hasselblad, means you must commit to buying Hasselblad made gear and that means money. It also means serious repair money if you buy a lens or other system parts without getting items that are in good shape.</p>

<p>I would deal with KEH as much as possible. They have "bargain" level equipment which is often really in excellent condition, plus they truly stand behind their sales with excellent warranties and a fine repair department.</p>

<p>Make up your mind that you will need to spend the money to get what you need and you will enjoy some of the finest equipment ever made!</p>

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<p>Oh well, so what is the "best bang for the buck" lens for this system?<br />I think the silver color 80mm is really popular because I see it on everywhere.<br /> I want something around 50-90mm range if possible. <br />I'm not in hurry too, I had two nikon fm2 and just gave one and got a Hassel.<br /> <br />I didn't reseach much because I wasn't using that nikon body anyways</p>
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I agree with Tim on this one! KEH is a pretty good store. Sometimes they will advertise a good used lens, but

feel free in making an offer at a lower cost. I've done this a few times with my Leica cameras. They've always

accepted the offers. Their used lenses are always in better condition than expected. For example. if they rate

a lens at an 8 you can expect a lens rating of about a 9. It's actually a fun game to play with them. When you call them the salesman man say no to your offer. Well call back and most likely you will get a different saleman that will accept your offer!

 

There's nothing better than a Hasselblad Zeiss lens. Look for an 80mm C* lens to start off with. Even if it's 50

years old it may work just fine! If the glass is clean you will be all set, even if the rest of the lens shows a lot of

wear.

 

The good news is if and when you buy lenses, in 10 or 20 years from now they may still be worth the same

price that you paid for them.

 

Russia made a Hasselblad copy called a Kiev, but the lenses won't fit and frankly they aren't very good

cameras.

 

You may wish to contact David Odess, a member of this forum. He often has used gear advertised on his

website. He's a Master Hasselblad trained technician, so whatever you get from him will be in perfect working

condition, even if the lens is 50 years old. Google "David Odess Hasselblad" and something should pop up. It's

surely worth giving him a call.

 

Make the move and buy a lens, keep your great Nikon gear. Hope this helps.

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<p>Kadir, The reason you seem to see it everywhere may well simply be because it is the standard focal length supplied with the camera body when sold as a kit.</p>

<p>It is the so called "normal" length just like 50mm is considered to be normal for 35mm cameras.</p>

<p>What I would like to know from you before offering you advice on what focal length to buy is this: what are your favorite kinds of subjects to photograph and do you usually enjoy using wide angle lenses or longer, telephoto lenses in your work. When you say you are looking for something in the 50-90mm range, is that based on your work with other medium format cameras, or 35mm cameras, or if with a digital camera, what sensor size. All of those factors would have a relationship to what lens to suggest for the Hasselblad system.</p>

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<p>The 150 mm C-lens is cheap as dirt at the online auctions. There is no alternative anyway. You are wrong, thinking that converting a lens to Hasselblad is no problem (you need lenses with leaf shutter).<br>

Ulrik</p>

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<p>There's little point to buying a Hasselblad body and putting cut-rate lenses on it. Yes, the Hassy precision and build quality are part of what makes it a great camera. But it's the Zeiss glass that produces the images. The camera body is ultimately just a box to hold the lens on one end and the film at the other.<br /><br />Medium format is expensive any way you look at it, but having two MF systems is more than most people can afford. If you want to work in MF and you want the best, sell your Mamiya gear and use the money to build up your Hasselblad system. You also mentioned that you still have Nikon lenses -- I assume you also still have another Nikon body or you would be selling them as well.</p>
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<p>The "Hasselbladskis", that is to say, Kiev cameras, have a focal plane shutter. Their lenses are not compatible with the real, later Hasselblads with shutters in the lenses.<br /> For a 6cm camera an 80mm lens is "normal" focal length.<br /> An old fashioned lens kit for a Hasselblad would be a 50mm wide angle, 80mm normal, and 180mm telephoto. Many Hasselblad users I knew just used their 80mm for everything.</p>
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<p>I would have to agree with Tim..One of the reasons for having a 5XX body is to use the lenses. 80mm CF at KEH from below $500 for bgn to around $700. I know it sounds expensive, but given the quality of the glass, compared to modern Nikon, Canon or even Leica, Zeiss etc. Its really fairly modest. </p>
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<p>Get the 80mm Planar, or another Zeiss focal length. Use it for several months, examine lots of your photos with it, and you might learn how special it is. You won't see other lenses the same way again. Non-Hasselblad lenses most likely can't do that, so don't bother with them. </p>
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<p>Hi Kadir,<br>

I second Bob's input on B & H Photo. Henry, you are a great inspiration as you had helped many people over the years. I can be counted as one who received your help. If you purchased the lens for m B & H Photo, all used items will carry a 6 months warranty,as they are CLA prior to being sold. Best deal out there with no hidden issues.<br>

That say, if you have a 500C body, best thing for you to is to have CLA and upgrade the old screen to a newer bright screen. Most folks will tell you that the older Ground Glass screen has a "Snap-To" contrast when focusing. If you are near a shop where you can view a 500CM (Newer body) with either a Beattie or Acute-Matte screen,you will see the difference. Decide then which screen works for you.<br>

LENSES: You first lens should be a 80mm. I have used that lens countless times as it has the appropriate focal length for most of my work. At a later stage when you feel you must have different focal length to compliment the 80mm or whatever lens you choose, look into these combinations:</p>

<p>50mm - 80mm -120mm (Maybe 150mm)<br>

60mm - 100mm - 150mm</p>

<p>All of the above lenses are Excellent. At today's prices, I would recommend going with the CF version. Of course of you acquire a C lens, make sure its at least a T*. Talk with David Odessa regarding the C lenses and why for the long haul, go for the CF.<br>

For all of these lenses (don't think the 80mm will work with certain tubes) use Extension tubes to help you "reach" your subject. I bought as individual units based on my needs the necessary tubes I felt I needed to get my work done.<br>

If you look hard enough, you might want to rent the basic lenses for a 1 week trial period to help you decide which lens to start with.<br /> Based on your type of photography, try the 60mm (not so wide), 80mm (Basic), and even the 100mm (a tad longer).<br>

With these three choices, it will help you determine which one to choose as a starting basic kit.<br>

WLF or prism: Again your preference here. I use both, as the prism are inexpensive. Look for the Kiev NC-2 prism. Its a copy of the Hasselblad NC-2 prism. They are plentifully and inexpensive.<br>

Good Luck and enjoy your hasselblad!</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>And I also failed to mention B & H. Never had a problem there, nor at Adorama either. I think the main point is that with some research there are a lot of great stores that sell Hassy lenses and stand behind their sale. For me that's important when buying used equipment.</p>
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<p>I really thank to all of you, for teaching me so many things about this format!<br /><br />I decided to sell my Mamiya m645 and Custom Rb67 with the lenses and such.<br>

Also, selling my Nikon 105mm F1.8 can get me a Hassel 80mm CF or something similar.<br>

Since, I can buy an Hassel to Nikon adapter, there isn't much reason to keep my Nikon Ai/ais gear. <br />I can use Hassel lenses on my Nikon digital and film bodies. After I found that out, i was really happy. <br>

I guess I will sell 4 lenses from my mamiya gear and 4 lenses from my nikon gear and get hassel 60 and 80mm for now. Also A16 and A12 back because I like both formats.<br /><br />With the left over money, I can buy chemicals for my darkroom also. So I can actually keep working on my developing skills and "custom" chemical builds. I like to mess with chemistry.<br /><br />Again, thank you all for all the great ideas! <br />I really liked Hassel community, you people are all humble and friendly. Unlike many others.<br /><br />Regards! </p>

 

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<p>The 80mm and the 60mm are not that far apart in angle of view. While I love both of those lenses, I would suggest that you think about the 50mm instead of the 60mm for the wider angle of view that it would offer. That would give you more opportunities for both architecture and landscape.</p>

<p>All are fantastic lenses.</p>

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<p>Kadir,</p>

<p>Why not wait till you have a single lens kit cobbled together? Try out the single lens to see if you do indeed nned to buy anymore lenses.<br>

Your Nikon 105mmF1.8 is a fantastic lens. You would not get much, but you would get a lot of use out of it. Beside you use whatever lens you buy for the Hasselblad on the Nikon.<br>

I would hold off on the A-16 back, and use the Hasselblad for Square until you decide to take the hook & sinker for a complete Hasselblad setup. The Mamiya 645 is a versatile system that would not get you much in this digital environment. <br>

There is so many unknown until you physical handle the Hasselblad with that one lens. Go the one lens route for now until you are ready to make the commitment. You would miss the use of the Mamiya 645 and the Nikon, as they are two different camera system when compared to the Hasselblad..<br>

Just my two cents here..</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Kadir,<br>

Some fifteen years ago I sold my Nikon FE2 and several lenses to purchase from KEH a Hasselblad 500CM, A12 back and 80mm CF T* lens. The gear was ranked at the bargain level. It was a considerable investment for me. Even though I later traded the 500CM for a 503CX (which made the use of flash much easier), both the 80mm and A12 have endured the test of time and I still use them regularly today. Over the years I have purchased other Hasselblad lenses, but the 80mm CF can do most jobs with impeccable results. You will not regret the investment.</p>

<p>Joseph</p>

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Just for some knowledge. You can actually use a 24 back and run 120 or 220 film through the 24 back. You

just have to remember to check and stop at the 12 mark on the counter when using the 120 film. Using 120

film won't hurt the 220 film back. I did this for many years.

 

Most Hassy photographers prefer the 12 or the 24 back compared to the 16 back. In fact I can't think of a

single person that used a 16 back or a 70 back. The main reason is you can crop the image if you wish or

keep the image square.

 

When I shot with the hassy's I carried with me the 40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 160mm, 250mm, and the 500mm

lenses. By far the 80mm got the most use for wedding work. I carried 3, 80mm lenses, just in case something

failed, such as the shutter. For landscapes the 40mm was fantastic. The 160mm was great for portrait work.

Some photographers liked the 50mm and the 150mm lenses better than the 60mm and the 160mm lenses. I

personally couldn't see the differences with huge enlargements.

 

The 500CM body was the workhorse. I carried 3 bodies, until the 503CW came out. During this period, from

about 1987 through 2003 or so, I shot about 40 weddings a year and the cameras really never let me down.

Sometimes something would go wrong, but I had backup gear and I was able to fix the cameras myself.

Nothing really major ever went wrong with them. Just the shutter, usually the spring broke, a few light leaks,

the film overlapping, these were generally fairly easy repairs.

 

So, you've made a very excellent choice. Don't be afraid to enlarge a print to 60X60" The images will be

breath taking!

 

One of the cool things about the Hasselblad lenses is if you are using a flash and the flash doesn't fire,

changes are the lens shutter spring broke. It's a great safety trick to remember. Sure, it could be a bad sync

cord or a bad PC connection, but at least you will know something is wrong during the wedding when the flash

doesn't fire. You may miss a few shots at a wedding, but you surely won't wreck the whole wedding, by giving

the couple blank film without images!

 

Kadir, you made a great choice. Best of luck!

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<p>On E-bay there is Igor's Camera Exchange, he usually has used hasselbald lenses and other Hasselbald equipment; backs , filters etc. I have not used his service, but he does have excellent pictures and a good discussion about the items he lists.</p>
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