angkor wat temple climbing

Having had some experience of temple climbing in Myanmar and Thailand, but

also being a bit more senior, I wonder if carrying my realtively heavy Canon

and a couple of lenses up and especially down those cramped and sometimes

broken stairs at Angkor Wat would be eased by carying a chest bag. The thought

of the camera swinging in the breeze is always a worry anyway, but in what

seems to be a very crowded place I am more concerned.

 

Any advice would be welcome.

The steps at Angkor Wat are up to 70 degrees with narrow treads. It is best to sidestep up and down. A waist strap to the camera would be all that is required. Its best to take the minimum. If you have a guide; he will certainly help you with gear.

They are trying to limit the number of people climbing all over the main temple by only installing one handrail. This really increases the traffic at this spot. I use a normal backpack.

There is definitely an unofficial policy not to encourage climbing up to the upper level of Angkor Wat; if not they would have built a proper stairway years ago. There has been a lot of damage in recent years by the feet of hundreds of thousands of tourists. Wooden steps have prevented damage to the most highly trafficed areas.

 

The new warning signs do not forbid climbing; but say that people do so at their own risk. I expect that with the numbers of people going here; eventually some are going to fall off and injure or kill themselves. There will be calls to stop anyone going up to the upper level.

 

Inevitably all these improvements detract from the purity of the buildings photographically. Restrictions will mean that large parts of these monuments will be out of bounds; so if you want to see and photograph Angkor go soon, before it is changed forever!

I would woory more for the monuments than your gear - stay off.

Last time I was there (Oct 2006) I was told that Angkor Wat has seen more damage due to tourists in 10-15 years than it did in the previous few centuries due to weather/jungle etc. Don't know if that's true or not.

I carry an SLR and two lenses in a LowePro chest pack whenever I travel, I can access my

equipment instantly even with a backpack on. Another asset is that this setup is impossible

to snatch off your shoulder. The center of gravity is better than something off one shoulder

and better for your spine as well. The downside is having something strapped to your chest

is pretty uncomfortable in hot weather....and if you haven't heard Ankor is hot as Hades. I

would climb stairs at Angkor, that's what they were built for, and believe me you won't be

alone. Just tread lightly:-)

"I would climb stairs at Angkor, that's what they were built for, and believe me you won't be alone."

 

How many people were privileged to use them when they were built? I'm sure not for the type of people scratching graffiti and taking souvenirs. Angkor is not like Bagan. There is not a better view of the other temples. One doesn't see people climbing St. Peters. Show some respect, stay off. Let the ignorant bastards embarrass themselves.

 

I didn't climb sights in Bagan, Angkor, or Tikal like many other idiots did.

Let's see....the only people who should ascend temple staircases are kings and all others who

attempt to do so are idiots? That's one way to look at things. These temples aren't going to

last forever and neither is the human race, walking up a stone staircase designed for that

purpose isn't disrespectful, Angkor is a tourist attraction regardless if the more pious

amongst us think they should be a museum.

Then go ahead and take a pencil tracing of the Mona Lisa, it ain't gonna last forever.

Angkor, the Pyramids, the Great Wall, Stone Henge, Machu Picchu, etc. were NOT built as tourist attractions. People have walked, as I have, on the restored sections of the wall, but one should not tread on the unrestored sections, as they are studied for their building techniques and technology. There are designated paths at MP and one should NOT climb all over the ruins.

"Let's see....the only people who should ascend temple staircases are kings..." Blah, blah, blah...

 

I did not say that. I meant the monuments where ever in the World they are were NOT meant to handle the millions of people that have "toured" them since they became "tourist attractions". I've also been to Tikal when I worked in Guatemala a few years ago, and I didn't climb the monuments, but I watched many macho idiots (mostly ugly Americans) climb them thinking and acting like they had conquered Everest. What insensitive, uneducated and uncultured losers.

my wife is in myanmar now and more of the temples at bagan are closed to climbing. personally i think it is away to get the people to climb the new tower they have built. (10$ for foreigner and 3000K for locals). now that may keep the damage to the temples down and keep people form falling of, but i think the myanmar govt. was only thinking $$$.

 

i carry my stuff in a small back pack. the tamrac expedition 3 swallows a lot of stuff for such a small pack. just go slow.

 

eddie

Eddie,

 

See if she's willing to go to Aung San Suu Kyi's (Nobel Peace Prize winner) house. In 1997 when I went to her house I was stopped by the military. Don't reward the Gov't by paying the fee for a replica temple, and don't let her climb the "originals", no matter how it was "restored". These are religious based monuments/ruins. Everyone must dress appropriately and take one's shoes off when entering the temples.

My mother is always horrified at the thought of me going to Burma/Myanmar. She says "why would anyone want to go there with all that dust?".

 

Oh yes, nearly forgot. Please check the four first letters of my surname. It is as Burmese as it gets.

 

Anyway, climbing Angkor? Don't know, I think if it is allowed I don't have a problem with it. I did it. I didn't particularly feel good or bad. Then again I am a Buddhist.

 

Ed, just have fun and don't get too bogged down with all that gear.

Whether people are to be allowed to climb on ruins is not exactly a photographic issue. Most of the damage to ancient ruins are done by traffic pollution and volume of visitors as well as mismanagement these historic places. Photographers are in the minority. Most tourists carry cameras of course, but carrying a camera does not make one a photographer.

 

It is mass tourism that is damaging these monuments. Many of the people I see around Angkor (especially from some Asian Countries) come in by the bus load; spend most of their time looking away from the monuments to pose for the cameras of their companions.

 

Photographers are generally more environmentally aware than most and will respect the rules. Climbing stairways at Angkor are a legitimate way to access these temples. It is up to the authorities to decide how ancient monuments are used. If the rules allow climbing steps up ruins; then photographers (and anyone else) can be free to do so. The Angkor Monuments are securely policed and the guards will prevent actions like climbing or sitting on delicate carvings.

 

I do take strong objection to the comment ? Show some respect, stay off. Let the ignorant bastards embarrass themselves?

 

This kind of arrogant and offensive statement has no place in an intelligent photo forum.

"The Angkor Monuments are securely policed and the guards..."

 

Bollocks, I did not see one "law" enforcement personnel at the site, just checking my pass at the roadside stand. "Photographer", whatever that is, and everyone else should stay off, period. There is ZERO reason to climb the relics. Go ahead, give me a reason. C'mon, think of a valid reason.

http://www.peaceofangkor.com/

 

Now I see. We offer culturally sensitive tours, with a proper English breakfast so you won't have to deal with the locals and their strange food. Be sure to wear cleats for your safety, damn the mere stones, they are insignificant and won't last forever.

 

There is nothing like a free advert, eh?

Thank you Steven W you are a offensive arrogant and totally ignorant bastard who should not be allowed space in this forum

I am still waiting, eating me bangers and mash, what photographic, or ANY, reason to climb the Wats, for the English, temples.

It is a sad fact that the most damage to the historic sites were not done by Western Tourists. Nature aided by poor construction methods. caused the destruction and severe damage of most of the huge monuments here. Angkor Wat was spared the ravages of nature; as it was never abandoned like the others . The famous Ta Prohm jungle temple and a number of other sites were left with many of their spectacular trees intact . The trees and the picturesque destruction caused by them have now become one of the main attractions; especially for photographers.

 

When these Temples were first rediscovered by the French in the Late 1800s Henri Mouhot and his contemporaries carried out temple robbery on a massive scale before telling the World about them.

 

The damage during the1970s to 1990s during civil war was horrendous. Remote temple sites were dynamited by the Khmer Rouge Army. Thousands of Carvings and even whole sections of walls desecrated and shipped off to Thailand; where big money was made.

 

I know many remote sites which this happened. In 2003 The 1000 Linga Valey of Kbal Spean lost one of its finest Vishnu figures which was brutally hacked of leaving an ugly scar This was only made good in Sept 2006 when a new replacement was installed.

 

In the temple city of Koh Ker; many of the magnificent sculptures were dynamited in the hope of finding treasure. Some of the prasats or towers partially collapsed. The worse place of all for this was the vast and remote Preah Khan Kompong Svay. Within the last 10 years the entire central Sanctuary was totally destroyed by dynamite and mechanical diggers; tearing off the best of the lintels and ornate door features. Whole towers collapsed leaving a huge pile of rubble. The remaining sculptures were either stolen or seriously damaged so they would be of no value.

 

Put into perspective, the incidental and unintentional damage by tourists is insignificant compared to what has happened in the recent past. Conservation and safety have rapidly become an important issue here; with a large increase in temple guardians in the last year or so. This has meant that there are restrictions of where people can go.

 

Having stated that, Cambodia and Angkor is a spectacular place even with the numbers of tourists. It is possible with expert guidance and intimate local knowledge, to find some of the most photogenic places on this planet without the crowds.<div></div>

Well said David. I admire your devotion and investment in the region.

 

"When these Temples were first rediscovered by the French in the Late 1800s..."

 

Please, did the indiginous people ever forget Angkor? Why must the "West" rediscover a site to make it important?

 

I maintain my position: There is no photographic, or other, reason to climb the monuments no matter what damage has come before.

I had no problems using a camera bag pushed over the back, sometimes I used a backpack. Either worked - I'd pay more attention to personal safety than the camera - several tourists required hospitalization from falls earlier this year.

 

Angkor Wat and Siem Reap are full scale industrial tourism - arguments over degree are the same as debating whether the head of a pin could hold 4,567 angels or 4,589. It doesn't really matter. By going there you are directly taking part in it's destruction.

Thanks Steven W for your endorsement; however we are not going to agree on the monument access question.

 

It is true that the indigenous people did leave the great cities of Angkor to the jungle; there is little doubt about that. However Angkor Wat was still occupied by monks and never abandoned like the others.

 

The damage to Angkor and its monuments has to be balanced against that of the living community. Cambodia is a country which had a turbulent past. The American War in Vietnam caused destruction and hardship on a huge scale from the secret and illegal incursions into Cambodia by the US army. This indirectly sowed the seeds which culminated in the hideous Khmer Rouge Regime.

 

The Americans didn?t give a damn about this as there was no oil involved or any threat to themselves. After all they just a load of SE Asian peasants who meant nothing. The people here are probably the most hospitable on this planet. I am very privileged to have gained some of the best and kindest friends I have ever had amongst the Khmers.

 

Only now is this wonderful country of Cambodia dragging itself slowly into the 21st Century. Angkor Wat and its fabulous heritage is one of its biggest assets. The Cambodians have a right to exploit this and compared to many other world class attractions; they are doing the best they can to balance access with preservation.

 

If it wasn?t for the commercial benefits of these great sights; they would be left to rot in the jungle. The income from tourism is directly and indirectly giving the means to restore the temples and make the experience of visiting Angkor a safer experience. There is a long way still to go; and mistakes have been made.

 

There will always be pressures on any major tourist sites and Angkor is no exception. Big commercial concerns are making large amounts of money out of Angkor (as they are on any major tourist sites). However the benefits in employment and improvements in infrastructure for the local population (schools hospitals roads etc) and the hope for a more stable future outweighs any of the negative aspects of tourism.

My research is focused specifically on Angkor Wat and this is a great discussion. The economic forces at work in Siem Reap are huge. Our opinions mean very little. When the powers that be recognize the Khmer monuments as a _non-renewable resource_ they will get better care.

 

This will only be accomplished with education. The money people need to realize that taking care of these monuments will keep tourist money viable into the future. The Cambodian people need to learn why their heritage is priceless. Tough lessons to teach with 2,000,000 tourists a year forking over $25 per day to access the Angkor area. And also a tough lesson for poor farmers who can earn $5 a day by digging up artifacts.

 

One non-profit founded by an archaeologist is trying to find this balance and preserve Cambodian history:

http://www.heritagewatch.org/