AE lock on Canon 5 D Mark II when using a remote trigger

<p>Hi,<br>

I need to hold down the AE(*) button while refocusing on my Canon 5 D mark II. I'm on manual focus and using a remote trigger and panning to take multiple shots.<br>

Doesn't make sense if I need to hold the AE lock down while taking multiple pictures using a remote.<br>

Am I doing something wrong? <br>

Thanks in advance.</p>

 

<p>I'm confused. Are you trying to lock exposure or focus? "manual focus" suggests you are concerned with AF, but AE-lock controls exposure.</p>

<p>The way I do multiple shots with a remote trigger is this:<br /> -- I set the shutter button so that it does not start AF and use the back AF-ON button for AF. Therefore, the remote trigger does not trigger AF, and I don't have to put the lens in MF mode<br /> --I put the camera in manual mode (M on the dial). Therefore, the remote trigger does not change exposure.</p>

<p>I don't use the AE-lock button at all.</p>

<p>Dan - maybe I didn't word my question correctly.<br>

I'd like my exposure to be identical for 3 or 4 shots as I pan the camera on a tripod. I'm using a remote though.<br>

I haven't used the AF-ON button yet but as a substitute, it's probably a good idea to note the exposure for the first frame and then switch to Manual mode and shoot the remaining pics at the same exposure.</p>

<p>You answered your own question! Yes, that is a situation for manual exposure mode. It would be faster/simpler to initially meter in M mode instead of using auto, noting exposure, switch modes and duplicate the setting from auto.</p>

<p>Use Manual Exposure Mode and a preset ISO (not auto). Your exposure will be rock solid.</p>

<p>Yes, I agree manual mode is the right answer. however, AE lock is generally used when setting exposure and then moving subject off center of frame without changing exposure. If you are panning and shooting something completely different why would you want to lock exposure. If something is in the shade or sun hits object differently as you pan you should adjust exposure accordingly. If you have a 5D2 you can switch to spot meter and go to one shot mode and get pretty dead on. You exposure will look more the same if all are metered at zero than all really being locked to the same exposure for each shot. This will cause some shots to be over or under exposed if lighting conditions change between shots.</p>

the thing i find most intriguing about the variety of suggestions is that think back to film days and plain old

cameras. This was done all the time, and there was no through-the-lens metering, you used an incident

light meter, took the reading, set everything on manual and took your successive shots. Are eome things

going to be in shade and some in light ? Yup. That's the way the world works. An incident reading shows

them in the true relationships, it doesn't matter what make and model of camera you're using..

<p>The OP isn't using an incident meter and it isn't necessary. The simple act of locking exposure using manual exposure is fine.</p>

<p>Thanks, all.<br>

M. P - I was shooting for a panoramic view of a building and needed constant exposure. The pics came out well but I could not level the stiched pics in Photoshop Photomerge. Need to get better panorama software (have read about a few of those on PN).</p>