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Advice for Novices


chris_l4

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<p>Hi,<br>

A friend of mine has asked me to take photos for his wedding in lieu of a professional photographer. Before I ask though I will state my background (Just finished reading the "OMG" thread...)</p>

<ul>

<li>I'm not a professional, I'd consider myself an avid amature,</li>

<li>I don't intend on making a career out of it and don't intend on stepping on toes or competing with businesses.</li>

<li>I've made it clear that for better quality shots they should hire a pro however they simply can't afford it. </li>

<li>I won't have the luxury of an assistant</li>

</ul>

<p>The equipment I have or will have is;</p>

<ul>

<li>50D with grip (2 if I get my way)</li>

<li>50mm 1.8f</li>

<li>18-200mm 3.5-5.6f</li>

<li>70-200mm 2.8f</li>

<li>430EX II (though I am trying to use only natural light)</li>

</ul>

<p>So after all that..<br>

Where would I best position myself during different parts of the ceremony?<br>

What should I be looking out for as far as lighting?<br>

What tips can anyone offer for crowd control as I won't be able to move the masses as I have seen some do in the past?</p>

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<p>1. What kind of ceremony is it? Church, inside but not church, outside? Makes a difference. Plus with churches (and other situations, too) you can only do what the officiant tells you is allowed. So if in a church, what are the rules? You can only answer this question if you know the above.</p>

<p>2. Again--inside, outside? Time of day? I will say that going only with natural light is difficult with your lenses.</p>

<p>3. Be polite but firm. Ask nicely, and if you don't get the behavior you want, get firmer in small steps. Let people take their pictures and then do yours, but keep it moving. Exert your status as "official photographer" if necessary.</p>

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<p>I don't think that's a fair question, Robert. </p>

<p>Dentistry is a licensed profession whose practitioner is accountable by law and by the governing body of their profession. They are also liable for faulty work and malpractice.</p>

<p>Chris's question is entirely reasonable. It's more akin to substitute catering or a neighbour's teen providing DJ services; both are common occurrences in lower budget weddings. </p>

<p>I don't have specific pointers to offer except to suggest diligently practice low light photography before the event in order to gain as much experience as possible, and to look at as many high quality wedding pictures to get some ideas on composition and subject matter. </p>

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<p>I found myself in a similar situation last year, being an avid amateur as well. First of all, if at all possible, scout all the locations before wedding. If the ceremony is in a church, check with church officials on their rules regarding photography. Check where you are allowed to stand and take photos.<br>

Also, remember that you can only be in one place at a time. I managed to get a bunch of good shots of the B&G walking down the aisle after the ceremony, but missed most of the cheering crowd outside the church door, as I was stuck behind the B&G.<br>

So, get as much facts about the venues as possible, and talk with the B&G about what they consider essential shots, and what they can live without.</p>

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<p>The only thing you can really do is practice taking pictures. Any pictures. Take at least 20 or more pictures per day. Learn your camera inside and out. On the day of a wedding, if you don't know what you are looking for, forget it. The pace is simply too fast. And a wedding is more about interaction than it is about photography. Meaning you either work well with everyone to get the best out of them... or you don't. The term "herding cats" is often used. I am not saying you don't need to know photography. But what you do know will fade into the background as you take your shots. You don't want to be learning it, or fiddling with it the day of a wedding. Besides that, get <em>everything</em> in writing. Including your lack of experience. Don't make any promises. The comment "though I am trying to use only natural light" scare the pants off me... why? This is often used when someone hasn't studied lighting so therefore will use only natural light because it's the best... according to someone somewhere. Light is light. What will you do if the natural light stinks?</p>

<p>Anyway, get it in writing to cover you but, even if you aren't being paid. Clarify those expectations. As someone once said, there is a big difference between a bride before the wedding and one after. And do your best to simply learn your camera.</p>

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<p>Michael.....my remark was illustrative and somewhat tounge-in-cheek. But photographers have been in courts too....especially wedding photographers....for failure to provide work of an acceptable standard. Weddings are a major undertaking for the photographer, and he/she needs to know what they are doing to a standard of some sort.<br>

I saw a sign in a resturant once that said <strong>"</strong><em><strong>fine food takes time and experience to prepare......Your order will be ready in a moment"</strong></em><strong>........</strong>More humor, but you take my point...robert</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>430EX II (though I am trying to use only natural light)</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Chris, natural light is great but this is by far an away the thing you need to practice with MOST. Yes anyone can slap a flash on their camera and put it on ettl and have it go off. Executing flash WELL is another story. Try to avoid the impulse to angle it straight forward. Just because that is how the pop up flash is angled on other prosumer models doesn't mean it is the best position. Either get a diffuser for it, or make a bounce card yourself. This is very easy for the 430. Just get a white index card and take a few rubber bands and put them around the top of the flash. Then when you are shooting have the flash pointed straight up so you bounce most of the light up, but some of it will bounce off the card and provide some fill flash as well. The quality of this light will be MUCH better than just pointing it straight forward. If you choose to have your flash on ettl, rather than manual mode and you are bouncing the light, you will likely need to set a positive exposure compensation. The other trick to try during the reception is if it gets dark, bring your iso down to say 500 or 800. Put your shutter speed down to around 1/30th, and then put the flash on about 1/2 power in manual mode. The flash will stop the motion, and the slower shutter speed will capture the ambient light.<br>

Practice bouncing the light and taking pictures of people with flash both indoors and outdoors. Do it until you get it right. Also, SHOOT IN RAW that day. It can really save your butt!</p>

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<p>Chris,<br>

Backup equipment is key. If your camera body malfunctions at any point during the day, you'll have no way to photograph the rest of the day.<br>

Next, you need to speak with the officiant. He/she will let you know where you can and cannot stand during the ceremony.<br>

Together with the B&G, put together some type of list so all of you know what the expected outcome will be in terms of who is photographed with who. Typically, the couples who are the most easy going upfront are the pickiest afterwards. That's because they have ideas in their head that they assume are "normal" and assume that you know that as well. You don't want to lose good friends over the "favor" you're doing for them.</p>

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<p>"...are also liable for faulty work and malpractice." And if a professional photographer does the un-thinkable at a wedding, i.e., lose a couple of rolls of film or loses a memory card, life if full of roses? Lawyers make a living, too.</p>

<p>"Put your shutter speed down to around 1/30th, and then put the flash on about 1/2 power in manual mode." Without knowing the non-pro's skill level ... unless you use a tripod or monopod, going to a slow shutter speed is not the best way to handle a wedding. People looking at wedding proof images like crisp images; a very experienced photographer may get into the 1/30th second range without a hitch. A wedding is not the place to see if it works...</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Robert, perhaps professionals are more sensitive to this sort of thing than amateurs. I simply see it as a case of a couple getting married on a limited budget and have likely set their expectations accordingly. I've attended backyard weddings with no photographer, just family taking happy snaps. Nothing wrong with that either. </p>

<p>Chris stated he is an avid amateur, and by the sounds of it, preferred not to have been asked. But having committed, I can entirely understand why he'd want to responsibly do the best possible job with limited experience, and coming to P.net for suggestions. It's true that fine food takes time and experience but sometimes you just need to eat thus doing the best you can with what you've got. </p>

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<p>Whether you are charging any money or not, you still need a contract and you need to set very specific expectations in that contract. If you set the expectation, in writing, that you are not a professional and will not be providing professional equipment/insurance/experience/results then there SHOULD be no wailing or gnashing of teeth.</p>

<p>Remind the bride that the only thing that will last after the wedding day are the photos - is that really where they want to skimp?</p>

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<p>It might be worth it to read this:</p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/learn/wedding/wedding-photography-timeline</p>

<p>And while slightly out of date for specific gear, this:</p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/learn/wedding/equipment</p>

<p>And if you care (since it's a bit more about the business/career end of things) this:</p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/learn/wedding/photography-business/</p>

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<p>Your 18-200mm should be very useful. You'll find yourself often going quckly from group shots to closeups of the couple, or an expression on mom's face. </p>

<p>I'd say, be sure to attend any rehearsals. You can possibly do light readings, determine good shooting angles, etc. as well as familiarizing yourself with the agenda in advance. </p>

<p>If weather and lighting are good outdoors the day of the event, take the party outside for photo shoots also. scout the area in advance at rehearsal to choose some possible good locations for such shooting. Use auto fill flash outdoors also. </p>

<p>I'd say shoot RAW+JPEG. Some shots the JPEG might do fine, others you might want to process.</p>

<p>I'm not a pro, but I have shot a few weddings of friends which turned out well.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>John Deerfield wrote: Take at least 20 or more pictures per day.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I had about three months to prepare for my first wedding. I was determined to do my best and not screw up.<br /> So I took more than 10000 practice shots :-) Deliberate practice as they call it. Not just going around shooting flowers, sunsets and whatnot. A lot of work but fun as well.</p>

<p>The wedding turned out to be a 15 hour baptism by fire but I didn't screw up and the B&G was happy with their images.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>1. Considering your lenses and your passion to shoot without Flash: If inside or outside and evening or low light etc you'll be using the 50/1.8: Within 8ft to 25ft SD and the ability to move. The ability to move being the more important factor. You might need to negotiate that. If there is a Practice / Rehearsal go to that and nail the shooting positions for the key shots. If you have to make a choice between the B and G to be facing the camera: ensure the Bride’s Face is in shot.<br>

<br>

2. Considering your lenses and your apparent experience - shot with it; or use it to sidelight or rim the side of the subjects: do not shoot into it.<br>

<br>

3. Polite and Firm<br>

<br>

Also: everything that Nadine wrote and also more information please, as she requested.<br>

</p>

<p > </p>

 

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<p>How well do you like your friend and do you want to keep your friend after the wedding? I'd stay away from this. There is almost no way you can take the wedding pictures and keep your friend. No matter how well you think you did, someone close to the bride, the groom or their neighbors will complain that you missed this or missed that. As a friend you can't walk away and you don't have the experience to point to as to why you took the pictures you did, or did not take.<br>

You cannot win this. Say you'd love to but you loaned your camera to your uncle in Tahiti and he won't be sending it back until after the wedding.</p>

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<p>Chris, Don't make any one scare you in not doing the Wedding. Pratice and know your camera's Aperture, speed and Iso, Learn how to use your camera and flash indoors and outdoors. Try not to fight with the Sun. If it is a group, use small aperture as 8 and up. Nadine is right check out all those things. Have the bride give you a list of who she wants to be done. Make sure you take the people on the list first before they vanish and can't be found, then take the bride and groom only and go crazy. But you have to give yourself a time limite of taking pictures so you don't slow the wedding down. Chris everything in the world is a learning process, even pro when they first started out had to get that first shot of what made them a pro. Good luck!</p>

 

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<p>I've been in the same situation, and if you've stated your disclaimer and you end up losing them as friends, it's not your fault.</p>

<p>To find the best position, well, you need to visualize what kind of photos you want to take. Start searching for complete wedding photos. This blog http://jasminestarblog.com/index.cfm usually post slideshows of wedding photos. Go to a bookstore--plenty of resources in photography section (at least at Borders).</p>

<p>I would rent a fast 17-55 (or equivalent) because I think a prime will make you the inexperienced lose shots. Go to the rehearsal, or arrive early on the day of. Plan your position and which lens. In the dim environment, know how much you can push ISO higher, and how low you can go with the shutter speed. If you use aperture priority, keep an eye all the time at the shutter speed you get, otherwise you'll get unexpected blurred shots.</p>

<p>You have to know your camera really well and how to manipulate exposure quickly. I got my practice from shooting hiking and dancing events. You have to practice with moving subjects, too. Probably follow and shoot someone around the house. Good luck.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Don't do it. You will try your best but the chances of it being even remotely good enough are so slim that only problems and heartache can ensue. There is certainly going to be someone in the wedding party who has been pushing for the images to be taken by some other friend or other "professional" who will create havoc and then, even the best intentions of the couple will definitely go completely down the drain...</p>

<p>UNLESS, you have something like 4 months to practice and start attenting weddings one after the other, rent about 3,000 worth of equipment and learn how to use it inside-out, take more than 5,000 images for practice, learn how to use remote flash....oh, you get the idea...</p>

<p>Seriously, stay out of it...if anything, gift them something towards getting a professional...</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>Whether you are charging any money or not, you still need a contract</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Two points:<br />1. If there is no payment (or consideration) there can be no contract.<br />2. Don't be daft. No one needs a contract just to take some pictures for a friend.</p>

<p> </p>

<blockquote>

<p>Don't do it. You will try your best but the chances of it being even remotely good enough are so slim that only problems and heartache can ensue.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I have a different point of view: Do it!</p>

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