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Acratech Long Lens Head for Nikon 200-500?


avishek_aiyar

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Hello,

 

I am going on a trip to Alaska next month and am looking for a light weight head for my Nikon 200-500 telephoto lens.

 

I came across the Acratech Long Lens head and I think it fits the bill as far as form factor and weight is concerned. It seems to be a good compromise between a full fledged Gimbal and a ball-head.

 

Does anyone have any experience with this combo?

 

I already have the original Wimberley Gimbal and although it's absolutely fantastic in terms of lens operation, it is pretty big and bulky. I will be going on a camping and hiking trip, so weight is a critical factor for me. I don't think I want to be carrying that with me.

 

Would appreciate any advice.

 

Thanks!

 

Avi

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If the lens is balanced by the use of a foot on the lens itself, any decent ball head should suffice. By "decent", I mean a large ball (2" or more) with good lockup strength (a long lens will have an high center of gravity ), and operate smoothly without slip-stick action. Expect to pay $400 to $500 for a suitable head.

 

The major problem using a long lens is that there is enough spring-back that it's hard to point the lens precisely. That is the major advantage of a cantilever head like the Wimberly. The lens is balanced in all directions, and the action is extremely smooth. Another problem common in long lenses with a tripod foot is that the collar is not tight on the lens barrel, or has too much flexibility. If possible, get a Kirk or RRS collar for that lens. They are made from machined aluminum, not a casting, with an integral Area type QR plate on the foot. My Nikon 300/4 AFS was nearly unusable until I replaced the collar.

 

I've used an RRS BH-40 head for long lenses (up to 300 mm), and it will hold the lens firmly at any angle. I also have a BH-55, which is nearly twice the size, and perhaps easier and smoother to use. A fluid head for video would work too, in conjunction with a leveling platform or half-ball. There's no spring-back because you point the mount without holding the camera. Good video heads are big, heavy and expensive, which kind of rules it out for all but the most determined hikers.

 

I see no redeeming features in the Acratech "long lens head" other than it's light weight. It is an alt-azimuth type mount with small bearing surfaces and no counterbalance for a high center of gravity, and looks like it takes two hands to operate.

Edited by Ed_Ingold
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Avishek, Acratech makes good heads. The head your looking at is a pan tilt only style head that will allow you to isolate your movement and lock individual planes of motion. Its very light because of its simplicity. As well the lens sits on top of head which may be better for your lens that has a collar/foot that is not so strong. I have a Kirk collar for one of my Nikon lenses that has similar problems. I have a similar concept but very bulky Arca Swiss B2 that looks like a ball head but is really a pan tilt with the addition of horizontal movement. For your particular lens I would imagine it would be effective and light. I have the original Wimberley that I use with my largest long lens and like a the "side kick" with a ball head because of its versatility for lenses that are 500mm or smaller. As you know, nothing get locked down except the arca style plate so stability is key. I hope it works well for you. Good hunting and stay safe.
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thanks guys. I am going to try and see if I can purchase an Arca-Swiss Z1 SP monoball. It seems to fit the bill in terms of my weight requirements and its load capacity.

 

I wish I could take my Wimberley, but at 4+ lbs, I know I am going to regret carrying it when I am hiking several miles everyday. Not to mention, I will have other gear, food, water, etc. with me to carry as well.

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I have a Kirk BH-1 ballhead and it is pretty comfortable with the lens in question. No matter how it's balanced, a ball head will flop a little when it goes far off horizontal, if it's too loose, but with a decent tensioning setting it's quite stable while still easy to steer.

 

Note, however, that good balance will depend a little on both how far that zoom is extended, and on what camera is on the back of it. Here's the approximately correct center point with the zoom at 500 mm. and a D7100 on the back. At this point it can be very loose when horizontal, but as you can see it uses up a fair amount of the length of a long foot. It had to go even further back when I used it with a D3200. The foot in question is one I made for the purpose. When it's very loose you have to hold on, but with a little drag you can let go of it in just about any position.329396052_longlensonball.thumb.jpg.870ad6cdf71ae080335af0374a36a181.jpg

 

And yes, in case anyone notices, it's not the original Kirk mount at the top. I accidentally backed over mine in a parking lot. It broke the clamp screw and scarred the head, but it runs fine with the cheap Chinese part.

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  • 4 weeks later...
A great choice. The Z1's aspheric ball will not flop with even a little tension. If you ever decide you really need an action head you can add a Wimberly side kick an your done.

 

This is the combo I use to support a D500 and 200-500mm, although in my case, I have the A/S Z1 DP Monoball, not the SP.

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