A Uni-fied Effort, or, More Leaf-Shutter Love

<p> Recently this forum has seen a run of sorts on leaf-shutter SLRs. This reminded me of a dormant project of mine; namely, the repair of my Topcon Uni.<br>

<img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2827/9374895900_75797d2ea7_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="457" /><br>

I saw this camera two years ago at our local thrift shop, and when I picked it up off the shelf and tried it out I was pleased to see the shutter was working perfectly (insert lamentations about complicated non-working leaf shutter SLRs here). It had no battery, but the compartment was clean of corrosion and I knew I could use the camera without the meter, so I bought it, along with eveready case and 200mm lens, and took it home. Upon arrival I put in a PX625A battery and the meter sprang to life...and not only that, it read correctly.<br>

The camera did have one issue, though: The prism had partially desilvered on the peak, causing large black streaks to appear in the viewfinder. This of course would not affect the operation of the camera, but it sure was ugly to look at. A new (old) prism would have to be installed, and I made a note to do that, and put the Uni in the camera closet, where I promptly forgot about it. Lately the spurt of leaf-shutter SLR posts reminded me of the forlorn Uni and I brought it back to daylight.<br>

This particular Uni seems to be a very early model, and the adhesive that Topcon used on the spring-loaded prism retainer proved incompatible with the silvering, causing it to flake off wherever the adhesive contacted it. Topcon seems to have switched to a different adhesive and later Unis did not suffer from this ailment. I got a donor prism and replaced mine, and it was ready for shooting.<br>

Many of you might know about the Uni, but a little refresher anyway: it's a shutter-priority autoexposure SLR, introduced in 1964. It was also sold as the Auto 100, and when sold in the US was labeled "Beseler Topcon", after the importer, the Charles Beseler Company. <br>

The Uni has an unusual metering mechanism: the meter is inscribed on the surface of the mirror. This robs some light from the viewfinder (7%, Topcon claimed) but in my example it works well.<br>

<img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3679/9375146446_4394f6467b_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="640" /><br>

You can see that the pattern is slightly center-weighted. I find it worthy of remark that it's not easy getting a picture of that mirror through the small aperture of that leaf shutter!<br>

I find the Uni very attractive, and a fine example of clean, uncluttered design. It has some more features which were a little unconventional, though they were also found on some other cameras. The film counter is on the left side of the top plate:<br>

<img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2833/9374892742_114921b354_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="458" /><br>

The shutter release is mounted on the front of the body, not the top plate. I was a little surprised that after a roll or two of shooting, I found this very natural to use. I could keep my index finger on the top plate, and use my middle finger for the shutter release (insert middle finger jokes here).<br>

<img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3751/9374894312_694bbb372e_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="458" /><br>

The control center is seen here, with a full range of shutter speeds from 1/500 to "B". The red color denotes the range of autoexposure speeds; that is, 1/500 to 1/8. The aperture ring is normally set to "Auto" (not f/16, as it is here). Notable is the fact that the meter is still fully operational even when the camera is operated in manual mode.<br>

<img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5483/9372123627_760d99e15f_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="640" /><br>

(We'll get to the film speed setting later.)<br>

The normal lens is a 53mm f/2 six-element design, of the Topcor UV series. This series of lenses has the anti-UV coating right on the lens, obviating the need for a separate UV filter. The UV lenses fit Topcon's leaf-shutter SLRs, as well as the Topcon IC-1 Auto, which has an electronic focal-plane shutter.<br>

<img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2852/9374897770_11d1d7b287_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="640" /><br>

Anyone familiar with a leaf shutter will recognize the "MXV" knob at the lower right; M is for flashbulbs, X is for electronic flash, and V is the self-timer, which is working fine on this camera (insert admonitions against using a leaf-shutter self timer here). The silver button just above it is the lens release. The knob at the lower left is for changing the film speed. The tab is pulled out with a fingernail and the knob can be moved. The film speed is set for the maximum aperture of whatever lens is on the camera, so it should be checked whenever the lens is changed.<br>

<img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3668/9372119391_1f796f4871_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="457" /><br>

This lens has a maximum aperture of f/2, and I'm using ISO 200/24° speed film. Another clue that this particular Uni was not sold for the US market is the DIN-only speed setting. Notice also, the PC socket just below the prism housing. The accessory shoe is cold.<br>

On the bottom plate we can see the usual tripod socket and battery cover, along with a silver button which must be moved aside and then depressed, to open the film door:<br>

<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7340/9374895112_882bc645a6_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="458" /><br>

And now a picture of my usual kit -- the camera along with the 35mm and 100mm lenses:<br>

<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7400/9372122187_b59c567e59_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="457" /><br>

I assembled a set of UV Topcor lenses from 35 to 200mm, with the aforementioned glass plus the 135mm:<br>

<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7368/9374895088_e77332abfd_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="457" /><br>

Notice also the "Vietnam" film holder which came with the camera when I purchased it. Allen Gara posted recently about finding one of these with a Fujica V2, and wondering about the fate of the purchaser. Me too, Allen...<br>

Enough pictures <strong>of</strong> the Uni...now, on to some pictures taken <strong>by</strong> the Uni. First, the 35mm:<br>

<img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3666/9374992304_5d38300544_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="458" /><br>

Oak Leaf Hydrangea<br>

Then, the 50mm:<br>

<img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3810/9374990248_c71c7f217b_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="458" /><br>

Cucumber plants<br>

<img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5483/9372212055_4cb141a7cf_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="640" /><br>

Annie<br>

<img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3791/9372211151_4ca6efd0d6_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="458" /><br>

Coley (taken with daylight fill-flash, at 1/500)<br>

Now some from the 100mm lens. <strong>Rick Drawbridge</strong> has mentioned before how he "sees" the world as through a 135mm lens. I know what you mean, <strong>Rick</strong>, except that I see most naturally with a 100mm viewpoint:<br>

<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7445/9374982334_3424849092_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="456" /><br>

Flora<br>

<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7327/9374983856_5886524e13_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="456" /><br>

Pearl Kitty<br>

<img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3755/9372219921_fa7a72b52b_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="458" /><br>

Leaves of three!<br>

<img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3780/9374992822_d9a9535d46_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="457" /><br>

Healthy fig leaves<br>

<img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7283/9374975528_d09f960949_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="639" /><br>

Rope swing at Grampa's Place<br>

And a crop of the above:<br>

<img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3735/9374977006_63b2eb6a8c_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="640" /><br>

Film was Kodak 400 (for the animals and Everett) and Fuji 200 (for the plants).<br>

I find the Uni a fine-handling camera, and the metering was spot-on, even with an alkaline battery. You can hold the exposure by slightly pressing the shutter button to "trap" the meter needle, and then recomposing your shot. Focusing is quick and easy, with a microprism center spot. I didn't have any noteworthy pictures to post from the 135 or 200 lenses, but they performed very well. Also available are a 28mm lens, and a 2X teleconvertor, neither of which I have.<br>

I don't find a lot of information on the UV Topcor lenses online, except for middling reviews by many folks, none of who seem to have actually used the lenses, but are instead repeating what they have read previously. I can neither agree or disagree with these pundits; I can only judge by what I see. I like it, and I hope you do too.</p>

<p> <br>

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<p>I had a chance to buy this camera along with a full set of lenses years ago. Most of my leaf shutter photos are now made with Bronica medium format SLRs. Some are made with fixed lens RF cameras. It's nice to see the good results which can be obtained with the Uni. </p>

<p>Fine pics of and with the camera, and a thoughtful post, <strong>Donnie</strong>; you've spent some time on this and I appreciate that. I think 100mm is close enough to 135mm to acknowledge that we share the same vision! I have the Uni and the Unirex, and they're both strong, hefty cameras, though a tad noisy. The lenses are certainly up to the standards you'd expect in a Topcor lens; that "Flora" pic is positively 3D. Oddly enough I have a light leak problem in both cameras though the seals appear to be in good shape; I must sit down one day and attempt to remedy the faults. I particularly like the square, boxy styling of the Topcon cameras. Thanks for a really interesting post.</p>

<p>Beautiful camera and images, Donnie. I love the shot of the Grandson on the rope swing. Nice, clean shots of the gear, too. The build quality of those Topcor Lenses are great. Thanks</p>

<p>I've wondered about the Topcons, but never had one.</p>

<p>You certainly show this one off to good advantage.</p>

<p>Here's an ad - part of a two-page spread in <em>Popular Photography</em>, December, 1965:</p><div></div>

<p><strong>Jeff</strong> -- Bronica...I can dream, right? :-)<br>

<strong>Rick</strong> -- thank you for the kind words. My Uni's seals seem to be in good shape. They're felt instead of foam. Are yours foam? The Uni was in production for 9 years, from 1964 to 1973; I'm wondering if perhaps Topcon switched to foam on later models.<br>

<strong>Louis</strong> -- thanks for the kind words.<br>

<strong>JDM</strong> -- I guess as long as you've focused first, <em>then</em> you can "point and shoot", eh? But seriously, I'm sure an autoexposure SLR in 1964 was a big deal. I've always assumed Beseler must have felt "Auto 100" sounded better than "Uni" for the American market. $159 in 1965 works out to about $1,100 today, so I'd say that's pretty close.</p>

<p>For sure.<br>

A continual source of confusion for newbies dealing with predigital cameras is the difficulty in understanding that back in 1950 an "automatic" was one that had the aperture in the lens stop-down automatically, and nothing more. Later, an "automatic" was one that set the shutter speed or some such..... And so on.<br>

;)</p>

<p>Ah, yes... Good point regarding the seals, <strong>Donnie</strong>. A quick inspection shows something like rather tired foam...I may just revert to good ol' felt!</p>

<p>Donnie,</p>

<p>Excellent post and set of pictures. I especially liked Rope Swing at Grandpa's. I also liked your attention to detail in your description of the camera.</p>

<p>I did find a test of the US version of the camera in the July 1965 issue of Modern Photography. It is rather interesting.</p>

<p>Here is page 1.</p><div></div>

<p>Here is page 2.</p><div></div>

<p>Interesting indeed, Marc! I was not aware Toshiba controlled Topcon at that time.<br>

Notice they call attention to the rubberized foam atop the prism...this is what had deteriorated and damaged the prism on my camera. In fact I assumed it was some sort of adhesive, as it was black and sticky. The later parts-donor Uni I bought had a different, much drier material here, which much more resembled conventional camera foam.<br>

I also took notice of their high opinion of the lenses tested, especially the 100mm, with which I concur.<br>

Thanks for sharing!</p>

 

<p>Fine write up and very descriptive pics...top effort. The shots are what you would expect from Topcor lenses, they have always been the attraction of the Topcon system. I have a Uni that is not operating, must make an effort to get it going!<br>

Nice to know that there are examples of this very attractive camera still taking top pictures, and great to see that Marc is still a mine of interesting information too.</p>

<p>Thanks <strong>Tony</strong>, and I agree: <strong>Marc</strong> is an important contributor to this forum, and I think he too often gets overlooked.</p>

Great write up here and very convincing photos. Seems like they (Topcon) got it right. I mena the formula of fixed lens auto BTL shutters. Interesting the max aperture and the film speed. I must concur that Marc B. library has become an important part of many posts here... Thanks Marc B.

<p>Thanks for the nice comments.</p>

<p>One of the things that I have always liked about this forum is the collaborative efforts of the members. You can have a fine detailed camera post like Donnie's and then members will add maintenance or operational advise, JDM will post an ad from the time period, and I will add a test report. </p>

<p>This benefits not only the regular readers of this forum but also camera enthusiasts that are searching the internet for a specific camera.</p>

<p>I am sure that those that find our little corner of photo.net will all have one thing to say:</p>

<p>Man. Those guys are good.</p>

<p>Thanks <strong>Chuck!</strong><br>

<strong> </strong><br>

<strong>Marc</strong>: well put. </p>

<p>Donnie- I'm wondering what the mirror box/film transport area looks like? Does the mirror seal off the film transport from the shutter, with a plethora of foam seals? I tried to redo the lights seals on an Aires Penta 35 (SLR with in-body Seikosha leaf shutter, like the UNI). There were so many seals around the mirror that were impossible to get at without completely disassembling the camera...I gave up.</p>

<p>No, that job is performed by a separate blind, behind the mirror, which swings up out of the way when an exposure is made. No seals are used here, just the metal blind. The only drawback to this is the loud "clack" it makes when a picture is taken, but my Kowa leaf-shutter SLRs sound exactly the same.</p>

<p>There were conventional foam sealing strips around the bottom of the prism where it sits on the focusing screen, as seen on many other SLRs, but these were easily replaced at the same time I replaced the prism.</p>

<p>Donnie- thanks for the response. I think the loud noise is a good trade-off for tiny hidden crumbly foam seals! I always give extra credit for camera's designed without the use of foam light seals (or at least using wool yarn for the film transport cover).</p>